So I tried searching and I couldn't seem to find anything on this, I think I know how to do it but I just want to make sure that I've done it right so I don 't go to use the brakes then bang nothing!
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Removing ABS
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All you really need to do on any car is unplug one or all of the wheel speed sensors. That way the computer will see an error in the electronics and disable the system. It gets the job done and you don't have to mess with any of the hydraulics. Be sure to tape up or otherwise seal both sides of the connection so that if you have to go in for a safety inspection, or otherwise want to turn the ABS back on you won't have to deal with a corroded plug.
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ABS is good when you have big brakes. I've locked the brakes up at 150km/hr, the ABS never kicked in. If it's working right, ABS is a good thing unless you're looking to lose some weight I guess.Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
lolstart by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
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that will also kick out attesa so don't do that.Originally posted by CelicaKidd_205 View PostAll you really need to do on any car is unplug one or all of the wheel speed sensors. That way the computer will see an error in the electronics and disable the system. It gets the job done and you don't have to mess with any of the hydraulics. Be sure to tape up or otherwise seal both sides of the connection so that if you have to go in for a safety inspection, or otherwise want to turn the ABS back on you won't have to deal with a corroded plug.
remove the abs pump and make new hardlines. leave the abs wiring all intact.
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Mine leaks like a siv, that's one of the reasons I'm ditching mine. ABS can be a pain in the a$$ when you are tracking your car. It doesn't do the same thing in the same situation. Everytime you come in to turn 4 (for example) the ABS does something different and messes you up when you want the apex in the same spot.
There should be a how to on the web here somewhere, I'm doing this sometime this winter.
Jon.Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.
1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD
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i would reccomend repairing the leaking unit and leaving it in... if your on track as you say... and you have tires worth a pretty penny.. then lock up your wheels, you're lival to get a flat spot on a tire or 2.... might save you there. also.. in the rain! ABS works well.
really weigh out the pros and cons for a decision like this.The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com
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ATTESSA reads wheel speed from the wheel speed sensors. Dont unplug anything.Originally posted by r32king23 View PostThe ABS isn't leaking, its going out of the car no matter what, its only a drag car and I know how to set it up, its the electronics part i'm concerned about, will it screw with the awd system
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Don't don't need ABS or big brakes with a single turbo, the lag alone will slow you down
Seriously though, just start taking things apart based on the manual. I can't see how tough it would be. It's been done often on SAU I'm certain.Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
lolstart by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
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