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  • Removing ABS

    So I tried searching and I couldn't seem to find anything on this, I think I know how to do it but I just want to make sure that I've done it right so I don 't go to use the brakes then bang nothing!

  • #2
    All you really need to do on any car is unplug one or all of the wheel speed sensors. That way the computer will see an error in the electronics and disable the system. It gets the job done and you don't have to mess with any of the hydraulics. Be sure to tape up or otherwise seal both sides of the connection so that if you have to go in for a safety inspection, or otherwise want to turn the ABS back on you won't have to deal with a corroded plug.

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    • #3
      ABS is good when you have big brakes. I've locked the brakes up at 150km/hr, the ABS never kicked in. If it's working right, ABS is a good thing unless you're looking to lose some weight I guess.
      Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
      Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
      Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
      Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
      Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
      White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

      Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

      start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
      lol

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      • #4
        Originally posted by CelicaKidd_205 View Post
        All you really need to do on any car is unplug one or all of the wheel speed sensors. That way the computer will see an error in the electronics and disable the system. It gets the job done and you don't have to mess with any of the hydraulics. Be sure to tape up or otherwise seal both sides of the connection so that if you have to go in for a safety inspection, or otherwise want to turn the ABS back on you won't have to deal with a corroded plug.
        that will also kick out attesa so don't do that.


        remove the abs pump and make new hardlines. leave the abs wiring all intact.

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        • #5
          Mine leaks like a siv, that's one of the reasons I'm ditching mine. ABS can be a pain in the a$$ when you are tracking your car. It doesn't do the same thing in the same situation. Everytime you come in to turn 4 (for example) the ABS does something different and messes you up when you want the apex in the same spot.

          There should be a how to on the web here somewhere, I'm doing this sometime this winter.



          Jon.
          Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

          1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

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          • #6
            Find a wrecked GTST non ABS and take the hard lines and the master cylinder. Its about a 3 hour job on your own. THat includes removal of abs system and cleaning all the leaked brake fluid.
            You can't fix stupid.

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            • #7
              i would reccomend repairing the leaking unit and leaving it in... if your on track as you say... and you have tires worth a pretty penny.. then lock up your wheels, you're lival to get a flat spot on a tire or 2.... might save you there. also.. in the rain! ABS works well.

              really weigh out the pros and cons for a decision like this.
              The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com

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              • #8
                The ABS isn't leaking, its going out of the car no matter what, its only a drag car and I know how to set it up, its the electronics part i'm concerned about, will it screw with the awd system

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                • #9
                  The r32 gts brake lines is a good idea.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by r32king23 View Post
                    The ABS isn't leaking, its going out of the car no matter what, its only a drag car and I know how to set it up, its the electronics part i'm concerned about, will it screw with the awd system
                    ATTESSA reads wheel speed from the wheel speed sensors. Dont unplug anything.

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                    • #11
                      There has to be a way to do it, i've seen it done before I just can't remember what they did.

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                      • #12
                        Don't don't need ABS or big brakes with a single turbo, the lag alone will slow you down

                        Seriously though, just start taking things apart based on the manual. I can't see how tough it would be. It's been done often on SAU I'm certain.
                        Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
                        Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
                        Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
                        Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
                        Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
                        White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

                        Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

                        start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
                        lol

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                        • #13
                          Well everything all apart, all the brake lines have been changed and the big fat ABS thing is removed, but the car won't be completed and started up till summer so I don't know how the electronics are gonna react to this........

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                          • #14
                            I told you what to do already

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                            • #15
                              APS light will be on on the dash. Remove bulb. done.
                              You can't fix stupid.

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