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Tensioner stud replacment ideas, bolt replacment etc.

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  • #31
    Originally posted by R32GT-R View Post
    sarcasm is the lowest form of wit
    Wasn't being sarcastic really, just curious how far you're taking the bolt issues (like cam gears having loose bolts n stuff which does happen even after proper torquing). Anyways, I do look up to your build though I'm too poor to go that hardcore. I was just curious.

    Lol I'll probably have kids and part my car out before it's done since I can't decide on a builder/machineshop or internals...
    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
    Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
    Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
    lol

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    • #32
      I assumed we were comparing 8.8 to 10.9 since I doubt you'll find an sae grade 8 to replace our metric tensioner/idler bolts

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      • #33
        you will not get accurate torque with a bolt. accurate torque is received with studs.

        Bolts will only torque the bolt head down, not the object your trying to tighten. theres a video on youtube that explains it really well i forgot the name of it..

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        • #34
          Updated first post with my solution and pictures
          Trust T618Z,Carrillo Rods,CP Pistons,Tomei 280 10.8 lift ProCams, Tomei Spec C Springs, N1 Block, ARP, ATI, ATL, Bosch 044,Sard 800cc,PFC,Z32 etc.......

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          • #35
            That's actually a really great idea. You can do it yourself with a cut off wheel and die to thread it. Very nice!

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            • #36
              just putting this out there not sure if it makes sense but if you buy aftermarket valve springs with a stiffer rating to prevent valve float with high lift cams you then must get a strengthen timing belt and possibly stronger tensioner bolt or stud whatever it is because it puts more stress on everything the belt wraps around including the belt itself... is that right?

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              • #37
                I would at least get new oem everything if upgrading cams.

                Sooo for those of us who don't want to spend 50$ at the machine shop, is there another alternative to get a grade 12 stud ?
                1990 Nismo GtR #283
                354hp - 292 ft-lbs
                -"And I thought my girlfriend was high maintenance..." -Etienne

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                • #38
                  not that i could find.
                  Trust T618Z,Carrillo Rods,CP Pistons,Tomei 280 10.8 lift ProCams, Tomei Spec C Springs, N1 Block, ARP, ATI, ATL, Bosch 044,Sard 800cc,PFC,Z32 etc.......

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