Modding Help

[MightEMatt]

Alright, so I picked up an R32 GTR not too long ago, mostly stock, and, although in the end I plan on making it track worthy, Im looking more into just improving it's reliability currently. From what I've seen I should start with the Oil Delivery and Cooling systems (Correct me if I'm wrong). I've been looking into my options for the Oil Pump & Pan, and I cannot decide on what to buy. From your experience what do you guys think I should go with?

[kyles_r32]

you should also consider the weak rod bearings on the rb26dett if you plan on running high boost and high hp. And yes oilpumps and the collars are weak. I hear Tomei makes a great upgrade for that.

[krarks]

...and the fact you will most likely need the motor out to do swap oil pumps and definitely have to pull it to take connecting rods out...

Are you planning on tracking this GTR or just daily driving? How hard are you going to be pushing your car? If youre not going to be bouncing the rev limiter all the time and planning on moderate boost, maybe start looking at other mods first.

[TW]

^x2. tell us some of your more specific goals / plans for the car and you'll be able to get more accurate advice.
Oil drive upgrades are always a wise place to start, I'd go with a reliable oil pump (tomei), and a crank collar at the least, or an r33 or r34 crank if its in the budget.
An oil pan baffle is useful but not necessary if youre not tracking it yet. Rod bearings are a wise upgrade too, as mentioned above.

[malibusst]

reliability wise, WITHOUT PULLING THE MOTOR OUT, do your usual timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner. while your at it, front main seal,

It would be nice to pull out the motor and do oil pump as well as a baffle plate for the pan, but only if budget allows. as for Rod and Main bearings, there fine.

cooling, id say nismo thermostat, oem waterpump, and koyo radiator.

Oiling without pulling the motor, id say relocation kit ( only for ease of maintenance), oil cooler, and an oil pressure gauge.



Turbos, id say get GT28R-5's. We've seen stockers explode and actually get sucked back into the motor.....

[Skym]

If you are going to track the car and don't want to pull engine -

ECU tune (very important when pushing limit's of engine, as it keeps coolant temps in check and exhaust temps in check with stock turbo's).

Engine oilcooler (ditch the factory water to oil oilcooler, unless your car is in extreme cold environment, like just above or below 0, where you need to bring oil up to operating temp). This mainly affects turbo's, as they can fail without a engine oilcooler and with high oiltemps (learnt this the hard way with my car).

Accusump (to prevent oil starvation that happens with high rpm, high G cornering, late braking from high speed).

Lower the boost level (to 11psi or below, to make sure turbo's don't spin to rpm where exhaust wheel can fail. More boost = more rpm on turbo).

Maintenence (change all fluids on car before and after trackday, change brakepads to high temp track pads, check for loose components, worn bushes, tyre pressures, etc).

Driving (shift before redline, don't push engine to high rpm around corners)

For example with stock turbo on RB20DET, 11psi -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVln5rOB9MU

Also would recommend braided brake lines, brake master cylinder stopper, brake ducting (prevents brake fade) for racetrack. Spongy brake pedal, brake fade is not what you want on a racetrack.

Follow those rules and car should survive a trackday without problems.