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  • Not sure what to upgrade next?

    So far i have upgraded:

    clutch
    pressure plate
    flywheel
    intake
    downpipe
    exhaust
    injectors (850cc)
    nistune board (whenever ztune gets the damn thing slowest service ever)
    boost controller and turbo timer


    I am thinking i mide aswell get a testpipe but then not sure what i should do after that.

    Possibly fuel pump and turbos?

    My rear suspension has some play so i will attend to that first anyone know a good place to get all the bushings?

    Thanks
    Nathyne
    1994 GTR - 6 Years with this car... damn time flies.
    1998 Subaru V4 STI - Daily/winter beast

  • #2
    nissan has bushings. As for next upgrade, get suspension the big single turbo. Of course, every time you install a performance part, you should be tuning unless the parts all go on at once.
    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
    Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
    Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
    lol

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    • #3
      Ohh yes forgot i have some HKS coil overs, Perhaps some adjustable control arms next then?

      Once i get my ECU back i will be taking her in for a tune aswell

      Also did change all my fluids (except diffs as soon as i pick up the oil i'll do that) aswell so that is not a concern.
      1994 GTR - 6 Years with this car... damn time flies.
      1998 Subaru V4 STI - Daily/winter beast

      Comment


      • #4
        Basic boost up on R32GTR with stock turbo's, stock engine to 430hp at engine on high boost setting (if stock turbo's, stock engine are in good condition. Or aim for lower hp level like 350-390hp if you suspect turbo's, engine, etc are not 100%) -

        Retunable ECU
        Boost controller
        Twin plate clutch
        600cc injectors (or bigger if your aiming for more hp later on)
        255-300lph fuelpump (depends on size of injectors and from Nismo, Bosch, etc)
        Z32 AFM x2 + plugs / tails (Tomei, etc sell the plugs / tails)
        Podfilters x 2 (usually bought with a intake kit)
        Full exhaust from turbo's
        PFR7A sparkplugs

        Also do a compression test on engine before doing any mods.
        RESPONSE MONSTER

        The most epic signature ever "epic".

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        • #5
          Have you done any upgrades on brakes ? suspension tuning ?

          making it faster is half the job , making it stop again is just as important

          As Skym said , i would be doing a compression test before expecting the poor old girl to make more power .. just my opinion though , i have never been one to bolt on upgrades until she blows kinda thing !

          Comment


          • #6
            Compression test doesn't tell you about any loosening rod bolts or worn bearings.
            Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
            Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
            Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
            Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
            Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
            White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

            Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

            start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
            lol

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by cortexx View Post
              Have you done any upgrades on brakes ? suspension tuning ?

              making it faster is half the job , making it stop again is just as important

              As Skym said , i would be doing a compression test before expecting the poor old girl to make more power .. just my opinion though , i have never been one to bolt on upgrades until she blows kinda thing !
              I have done front brake pads and put on ss brake lines all the way around i was thinking of geting some rotors that are not drilled and upgrading my rears aswell.

              Okay i will do a compression test then before i get a boost controller or drill out the boost restrictor.

              Okay so i will:
              get replacement bushing from nissan
              do a compression test
              replace rear brake pads (fronts are brand new still)
              replace spark plugs (forgot about these oops! should i maybe do coil packs aswell?)
              walbro fuel pump


              Do you think that sounds about right?


              Thanks
              Nathyne
              1994 GTR - 6 Years with this car... damn time flies.
              1998 Subaru V4 STI - Daily/winter beast

              Comment


              • #8
                I'll assume the rod bolts in the rb26dett are the same setup in any other motor i've built , when they are tightened they are designed to stretch slightly and as a general rule of thumb they don't work themselves loose unless they have been removed and reused. Badley worn bottom end usually manifests itself as a low knocking sound if very bad or a drop in oil preassure as the increased gap on the mains , big ends etc lets oil escape the journals too fast.

                Compression test lets you know the condition of the valve seats , rings , head gasket etc etc. No point increasing boost if the combustion chambers cant hold it.

                On a side note , a failing bottom end will sometimes be detected by the knock sensor and the ECU will retard timing to try and reduce it making the engine bog a bit under acceleration. If you have a device to plug into the ECU ( i used to use a palm zire 71 with some software from www.digitaltuning.com to read the engines vital signs ) you can check the knocksum for this.


                Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
                Compression test doesn't tell you about any loosening rod bolts or worn bearings.

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