Two Issues: Vibration Under Braking and Oil in Charge Pipe

[aN4rk1]

Ok so the other day I put in a welded divide charge pipe, the one that says Twin Turbo on it. When I took off the old pipe I noticed there was a bit of oil in it. This slightly concerned me. It wasn't a crazy amount but there was enough so that I could rub my fingers in it and It was slightly liquidy (sp?) and there was most definitely residue. Does this mean my turbos are leaking or is this normal?

Secondly, my car used to have a lot of vibration when going over 160 and even more when braking slightly hard. I got new tires put in yesterday and it seemed to correct the over 160 issue but the braking issue is still there. One of my rims is slightly cracked I know so Iam wondering if it is bent as well as this is a good possibility. However, someone else I know suggested that my rotors could be warped. Is there any other possibilities is there a way to test the warped-ness of my rotors?

[GTS-James]

if your rotors are warped, depending on the sevarity you can have them turned, if they are bad like mine were on my old golf than get them replaced asap, mine were bad ended up ******* up my calipers, also recommend new pads with either turned old rotors or new ones.

[bobbo]

Don't turn your rotors. Your removing metal/area to dissipate heat. This is a NO-NO especially if you're doing excessive speeds and heavy braking. You'll likely end up quickly warping them again.
I'd STRONGLY suggest replacing your brakes with the AMS brake kit. Best bang for the buck I found and it works great for the street or light track use.
As for your turbos... it doesn't sound like there is enough oil to be worried. Just keep letting the car cool down for a couple of minutes before shutting it off and using a good quality oil and you should be fine. Also not over boosting the oem turbos will help them live longer.

[frankiman]

if you are tracking the car and getting high oil temps, its normal to have blow-by gasses thus oil in the intercooler piping, simply install an oil catch can it should correct the issue

you can have the rotors turned, within specs, i think BNR32 front rotors have a minimum recommended thickness of 30mm (or 28, i'll have to check)
or as bobbo mentionned, AMS now offers BNR32 sized 2-piece rotors, or the BNCR33 conversion kit

[derk]

why are you driving excessively fast if you know one of your rims is cracked?

get the **** fixed or get a new rim!

[aN4rk1]

Thanks guys! I was thinking about a catch can, although I dont track my car at all and it is a daily, it still seems like a good idea.

why are you driving excessively fast if you know one of your rims is cracked?

get the **** fixed or get a new rim!

Rim is getting fixed next week, funds are low. And I dont drive excessively fast, I noticed it the first time I went over 160 and now after new tires, I decided to see if it was still there.

[hozer]

Don't turn your rotors. Your removing metal/area to dissipate heat. This is a NO-NO especially if you're doing excessive speeds and heavy braking. You'll likely end up quickly warping them again.
I'd STRONGLY suggest replacing your brakes with the AMS brake kit. Best bang for the buck I found and it works great for the street or light track use.
As for your turbos... it doesn't sound like there is enough oil to be worried. Just keep letting the car cool down for a couple of minutes before shutting it off and using a good quality oil and you should be fine. Also not over boosting the oem turbos will help them live longer.

Turning your rotors is fine. I track the **** outta my car and had to turn my rotors, no issues at all. 0 increase in heat and no loss of stopping power.