Car is almost going, just a couple more questions

[nbskyline]

Thanks everyone for your help so far.....

Everything is back togeather, the car stared fine idled very smooth, temps great

Took it for a drive, seemed to boost fine and drive fine then..

Cat temp light came on, car died to a complete stop. Tried to start it several times without success. I got the car towed home and found that my bottom MAF was on but not tightned at the bottom.
I know this would cause a loss of power, but would it cause the car to die and not start?? Could it have run rich and and flooded?? The battery is reading 11.99, possibly down from trying to start it several times??
I had let it idle for over half an hour with lights and heat on earlier in the day with no problems, so I don't think altenator. The Cat was also fine before I changed the engine.

Also is there a restrictor in the top passsenger side recerc. hose?? ( the one that goes from the valve cover )

Any idea's/help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks again,
NBSKYLINE

[nelsonmxmarc]

Cat temp light acts as; High exhaust gas temperature and knock sensor as far as i know.

Is your ECU in diagnostic mode? If you played with the small screw on the ECU, you might have put it in diagnostic mode.. Same thing happened to me, but the car would run .. (Cat light would come on and off while depressing throttle)

MAF being loose wont cause an issue. If anything youll experience a Vac leak or severe boost leak leading to stuttering, shuddering, misfire like symptoms.

11.99 is "Okay"

That restrictor is not "a restrictor" per se. Its stainless whool that acts as a trap for oil so that it doesnt dump into your turbo piping like crazy, and slows down the flow.


Question is, are you running a wideband? Is the motor stock? Has it been tuned? etc.

[mitch32]

Like nelson said pull the codes, see whats up.

If your cat is clogged also it can cause heat and your engine not to run properly.

[nbskyline]

I bought the motor from Z-tune last year, it has metal head gasket, biggier oil and water pump. The rest is stock from what I was told. I am running everything else stock, same ecu. I am going to check if there are any codes.
thanks

[nbskyline]

ok, checked codes and I am getting 11,12 and 43. crank angle, air flow and tps?? The cat light is also flashing??

Thanks guys

[nelsonmxmarc]

CAT LIGHT;
Like i said, check to see if the ECU is in Diagnostic mode. Basically the screw on the ECU is turned the wrong way. There is a running mode, and a diagnostic mode... Turn the screw the other way and see if it makes a difference (i forget which way means what..)


Be careful reading codes, they don't always mean what they "mean". They can point to an issue somewhere else completely, but they work well as a grounds to determining that issue.

Crank angle is really the only thing that comes to mind when the car dies and won't restart. You can run maf-less under 3000 rpm (limp mode), so that's ruled out. TPS values? Check to see if the values are set correctly, either with nistune/consult or by using a volt meter on the white (middle wire) into the TPS box, and ground the other terminal. Should get ~.48. A super low value will stop the car from running in MOST cases. Typically the AACV is responsible for idle air values, but the TPS has a funny way of interfering.

Crank angle sensor.. If you unplug it, the car will not run. If this unit is faulty, and u have a code for it, then it's likely it has died. Swap for a friends or source one to try to see if that resolves the issue.. Not terribly uncommon to have happen, so just keep your fingers crossed.

[TW]

What happens when you try to start it? does it crank?
If it cranks, but never fires up, I'd check out the crank angle sensor first.

My car threw me an air flow and tps code when i had a dead maf, and the car would intermittently start misfiring, bogging down and dying. Wouldnt start well either.

A boost leak will throw an AFM code as well, if one of your intercooler pipes has popped off then the car definitely wont run.

lots of options, trial and error is the key. keep us posted.

[TW]

That restrictor is not "a restrictor" per se. Its stainless whool that acts as a trap for oil so that it doesnt dump into your turbo piping like crazy, and slows down the flow. .

I dunno about gtst's, but its not wool.

It's a restrictor but it serves the same function as what marc said.

[nbskyline]

thanks for the info on the restrictor.

UPDATE. I found a loose ground, reset my ecu and it started right up. I am still getting code 11 and noisy valves. I haven't heard my car run in a year and a half but I don't remember the valves being noisy?? timing maybe??

[leeaspin]

you sure its your valves and not just noisy injectors?

[nbskyline]

it sounds like it is coming from the valve covers. I can hear the injectors as well. Just wondering if the timing is off a bit, would it cause noisy lifter/valve noise?? It is definately top end noise, nothing from the botttom. Would it have anything to do with the code 11?? It idles smooth, no hesitation.

thanks

[nbskyline]

If your CAS is bad would it start every time when the ecu is reset?? Or would it not resart regardless?

[nbskyline]

ok UPDATE:

Reset the ECU last night, car started and idled great timing about 18, then it just quits. When I try to start it, it sounds like it is turning over very quick??? Code 11 again.?? could old gas cause this?? It idles great, still slight knock sound

Any suggestions would help.