What should I do with my engine on HKS GT-SS ?

[cobrAA]

I currenctly have all the supporting mods for my HKS GT-SS. I want to stay twin turbo. No single turbo, it's not an option.

In order to get some extra HP, I should maybe sell the GT-SS for the garret -5. But this option would be last resort. I don't think I will do it.

With that said, I'm looking at rebuilding my engine. My friend told me I should go stroker 2.8L. He said I would be fine under 5k.. By looking at the MSRP of these kit, they go for 5500 to 9500 $. Maybe if I buy the piston,rod and crankshaft from different company, it would cost less than 5k ?

These HKS GT-SS are rated at 550-600HP. So, let say, my goal is to hit 500-600whp ( but I really DOUBT, I will hit more than 550whp, 500whp is more conservative)

What would you do if budget is LIMITED ? This means that if I don't need forged piston, I won't buy it.

[archaeic_bloke]

budget rebuild.... forget stroker... especially for GT-SS turbines. you don't need the extra displacement to spool those turbos any quicker... you can get yourself a wicked good motor built.

start with the essentials:

ACL main rod and thrust bearings - $350 (entire kit)
R34 crankshaft - $900 (or machine a collar onto ur old one $500)
if your OEM rods are still minty then use oem rods for 500 whp no prob. and you can use oem rod bolts should be fine (unless u want ARP)
get forged pistons.... for the ease of mind. - $1000
N1 water pump - $250
at least an N1 oil pump - $300 if not something bigger better. anything other than N1 or oem oil pump and you'll want to do oil pan mod's to increase oil capacity. also head drain mod, and oil restrictor in head mod.

now you'll need to get the block decked and bored. (if u blew the motor up you should have the block magnafluxed first to check for cracks)

now the head and etc:

get a tomei full metal gasket kit - best bang for the buck on these, with like a 1.1mm headgasket or 1.2mm

if u have any money left over, then add power by adding cams, adj. cam gears etc.

[Super_Dude]

You won't make more power with a bigger engine. Lag will be better and you will use less boost but the turbos can only flow so much.

If you went 2.8 and -5's the would respond similar to gt-ss's on a 2.6.

If you stay 2.6 and gt-ss's your best bet would be some porting, bigger lift cams (260 10.2?) Better intercooler hard pipes, and get rid of the 70mm neck down in the downpipe/cat/exhaust.

The old setup on the hioctane r32 was n1's and every mod possible (cexhaust/head/dry sump) it ran 10's and made over 400kw. So it is possible but very hard to pull off.

[cobrAA]

Thanks for the info, I wasn't expecting that much ( i.e: price on item).

I already have tomei cam gears, and there's a guy on the forum selling 256 tomei procam,pretty tempting.

As for exhaust. I have a RS'R 3 inch downpipe, oem cat that I welded a straight pipe inside the cat so it's actually a test pipe inside a cat. Catback is a 3 inch RS*R with a varex muffler at the end.

Like I said, I think I did a good job with supporting mods, all I need to buy is coilpack,oil cooler and catchcan.

So, I'm down with the serious business :P!

By the way, josh, I already did a partial rebuilt with my '' front'':

All new belt, brand new oem water pump ( I heard too much cavitation with N1 FOR DAILY), both pulley with spring. oh and new ATI super damper.

[NismoS-tune]

budget rebuild.... forget stroker... especially for GT-SS turbines. you don't need the extra displacement to spool those turbos any quicker... you can get yourself a wicked good motor built.

start with the essentials:

ACL main rod and thrust bearings - $350 (entire kit)
R34 crankshaft - $900 (or machine a collar onto ur old one $500)
if your OEM rods are still minty then use oem rods for 500 whp no prob. and you can use oem rod bolts should be fine (unless u want ARP)
get forged pistons.... for the ease of mind. - $1000
N1 water pump - $250
at least an N1 oil pump - $300 if not something bigger better. anything other than N1 or oem oil pump and you'll want to do oil pan mod's to increase oil capacity. also head drain mod, and oil restrictor in head mod.

now you'll need to get the block decked and bored. (if u blew the motor up you should have the block magnafluxed first to check for cracks)

now the head and etc:

get a tomei full metal gasket kit - best bang for the buck on these, with like a 1.1mm headgasket or 1.2mm

if u have any money left over, then add power by adding cams, adj. cam gears etc.

ACL bearings are cheaper than that. like $200 or something I was priced at.
R34 crankshaft is less that $700 at nismoparts.com, well, last year.
CP pistons are great (they own carrillo, yeah lol) and are less than $650 on some sites. Don't need more oil capacity, just go with an oil pan baffle which is just fine, even with tomei pumps.

-5 are a big set of turbos unless you're going bigger/laggier power. GT-SS is what I should have gone with to have badass response and 500whp (with other goodies of course

Stroker kit is almost pointless till you get into big expensive builds like 40k+ that need no change spared. Stick with a slightly bigger bore.

[evilgtr]

Nismo-stune has it right with everything he mentions above, super-dude the hioctane r32 doesnt run a drysump it runs a N1 oil pump with a baffled oil pan and only 264 cams. Mild port and polish and alot of boost to achieve the power and response - Mark Berry and Russell Newman were also running n1 turbos which are similar to the -7's but they tuned the car on 98 octane to achieve the 400kw@ 20.58psi boost.

lots of guys are affraid of the n1 oil and water pump but all you need to do is bring up the list of trophies the hioctane boys won with that n1 setup in their gtr it is a beast. I have emailed mark before and they never once had issues with either of the pumps especially the n1 oil pump which he said was actually on another race car previous to the black one.

your goals of 500whp are easily within reach. Just address the RB26 weakness's and go from there, crank collar,pistons,ARP bolts everywhere except mains,oil pump,head restrictor (head drain not needed but do it if you can) metal gaskets,free flowing exhaust right off the turbine,injectors,fuel pump and tune tune tune tune tune.

[evilgtr]

Just found this - its already been done for you and trust me this is a deal. you will have 2 engine and still save thousands hahaha

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/parts-sale/43946-fs-91-nissan-skyline-gtr-complete-partout-list-updated-regularly-abbotsford-bc.html

most of the things we listed above have been done to this engine and it just had a fresh rebuild. Fair price

[cobrAA]

Just found this - its already been done for you and trust me this is a deal. you will have 2 engine and still save thousands hahaha

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/parts-sale/43946-fs-91-nissan-skyline-gtr-complete-partout-list-updated-regularly-abbotsford-bc.html

most of the things we listed above have been done to this engine and it just had a fresh rebuild. Fair price

Appreciate the head up, but I already have the GT-SS, sard 700cc, water pump,tming belt,pully is there, ecu is fine, tomei cam gears too. and my friend will be doing all the rebuilt for dirt cheap because he's a good friend and he wants to rebuilt a RB26. so labor will be cheap.

[cobrAA]

I thought the stroker kit was here to help with torque. I like kick in the butt so I guess my goal is to gain the more torque possible. Hence, why I was wondering about the stroker.

EDIT: 1500th post!!

[TW]

theoretically speaking, more displacement = more torque. however, you dont need it. at 500whp, there's no need for a stroker. do you want more torque or more response? If you want response, get some n1 turbos, proper headwork and a good tune will make the car super responsive, and stock displacement is better for response anyway. decide what your goals for the car are and work from there.

With respect to your build....

Oil pump wise, I would spend the extra cash for a solid pump. Sure, the n1 pump has lasted on some applications (including mine), but If i were to do it again, i would have went with a tomei / nismo / greddy pump. I cant justify not spending 4-500$ extra for one of the most vital parts of an RB.

Bottom end, just go with forged pistons and rods. go with arp rod bolts if you decide to re-use stock rods. crank wise, an r34 crank still leaves you at square one. Whatever crank you go with (stock or r34), get a collar from jdms13rhd or whatever. He has done extensive reasearch as to the oil drive problem and i trust his results. get an oil pan baffle.

For the head.. It depends how much money you want to spend here. the stock head will make 500hp no problem, but will not be as efficient as a nice ported head with big cams. Go with arp head studs, a stainless head gasket, and personally i would do Cams, valve springs and cam gears.

I would also do the exhaust manifold and dump pipes while everything is out. anything you can do to improve flow on the exhaust side will help quite a bit. keep intercooler and plenum stock, and go with hard pipes everywhere. Any rubber pipe will have to expand in order to become rigid, increasing lag.

sorry if im telling you things you already know, I tried to cover just about every aspect lol.

[cobrAA]

I like response that why I went with small GT-SS, I could have bought the -5 for the same price but decide to get smaller turbos. However, I'm sure there's a way to improve torque ( i.e: camshaft) while keeping a good response. At the end, I'm not building a drag car. I'm trying to get the most out of my twin turbo setup and my twin plate clutch

Good info. In order to keep the price low I try to look at the for sale section more often

Could someone however explain me how I should choose my camshaft? There's so many option,252,256,260,264,272 on both side and I could mix-match them. too many choices for me lol

[TW]

I like response that why I went with small GT-SS, I could have bought the -5 for the same price but decide to get smaller turbos. However, I'm sure there's a way to improve torque ( i.e: camshaft) while keeping a good response. At the end, I'm not building a drag car. I'm trying to get the most out of my twin turbo setup and my twin plate clutch

Good info. In order to keep the price low I try to look at the for sale section more often

Could someone however explain me how I should choose my camshaft? There's so many option,252,256,260,264,272 on both side and I could mix-match them. too many choices for me lol

haha can't help you there. message me what parts you're looking for!

[cobrAA]

sure I will

[Super_Dude]

A 2.8 will increase torque and response. A 2.8 with gt-ss would make boost off idle and you would probably never notice you even had turbos.

[TW]

A 2.8 will increase torque and response. A 2.8 with gt-ss would make boost off idle and you would probably never notice you even had turbos.

these guys beg to differ.. and after watching this, so do i!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDiTWaIhLNw&feature=related

fast forward to 3:30