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What should I do with my engine on HKS GT-SS ?

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  • #31
    Peak boost on my setup, gt2860-5, is pretty high. I have around full boost, 19psi, around 4500rpm depending the gear. They are a bit laggy but I start seeing boost around 3000rpm (even lower) so the power is pretty linear but peak boost comes on late.

    Edit: Did a bit of reading though this thread. Its true about a turbo, there is only so much air that it can take in. Thats why certain turbos have more power/torque at higher rpms then others its because your not outflowing them as easily. Frankiman makes peak power at 6600rpm and my peak power is much higher (its still increasing around 8400rpm). Its the turbos and the head that make this the way it is (in the case of me and franki, its the turbos and maybe the porting). Also a stroker isn't necessarily going to make more power its just going to put more air into and out of the motor, so you'll get more power at a lower psi but the threshold will be less (as turbos can only flow efficiently up til a certain point). With that said it is possible that the stroker will make more power because there's also a psi level that a turbo becomes inefficient. Its kind of like a game, strokers have a longer stroke so the torque will be larger. Theres two reasons a stroker makes more power; 1. because of displacement (it moves more air over a stroke) and 2. because the crank has more leverage since the point where the rods attach are further from the center of the crank.

    Formula 1 runs very small stroke, if I remember correctly from school its around half then that of the piston bore. Formula 1 knows their s***. IMO RB26 > RB28, RB30 is cool but RB26 is a revver and no reason to spend 10000$ on a stroker kit. For 10000$ you can do a lot more to an rb26 then the stroker can do to your rb26.
    Last edited by mitch32; 11-02-2010, 11:56 PM.

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    • #32
      Mitch came me good idea..

      Headwork to fit new cam ( however SAU is telling me it's useless. I should keep OEM)
      Water-meth
      e85 ? ( well... I'm not too sure about this one Mitch, might be too much of a b*tch to gas)
      Get better dump pipe than R34 OEM
      Hard piping
      Aftermarket coilpacks
      Oil cooler
      Catchcan
      Forged rod and piston
      Headgasket metal
      Oil pump
      crank collar.
      Solid nismo shifter
      SS clutch line
      Nismo low temp thermostat
      Nismo rad cap

      Handling:
      Fit my ams subframe bushing
      sway bar whiteline from the GB
      New Coils.. should be HSD coils.

      Damn I have enought stuff to bust my 5k budget! Let shop now!
      Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :

      http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/54899-ontario-cobraa-detailing-group-buy.html

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      • #33
        Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
        Is that a long block, manifolds, turbo provisions, sump and mounts? I doubt an Rb30 would fit in an s13 without modding too much....... Which Rb30? the weaker one or the one that's turbo ready?

        What about harnesses, and sensors?
        It's just a short block. No point in paying to ship a dead weight single cam head. Comes with block, crank, rod pistons. I have pans on them but are a lil dented. I might have one or two with good ones on them but still rwd sump.

        Im sure the hood would need mounting for an S13. Mine was in a A31 Cefiro. They have a little more clearance than S13. I was just using stock R32 RB20 mounts. But a hood can be modified easy enough. Here's a pic:





        as for weak RB30.... I couldnt tell you much on that. I totally forget what exactly car my engines came from. I've had around a dozen rb30's and they all looked the same. They all didnt have squirters, they do have the bungs for oil feed and coolant return. Just thread out the bung and screw in the fitting from your RB20 or RB26. The oil drain is even there. So from what I have seen they are all turbo ready. I think the ones you heard of that "are not turbo ready" just need something drilled behind the fitting but its been a while since I've done much with the 30's and lots of the info I used to know on the top of my head, I forget.

        As for sensors, you use the sensors and harness that comes with what ever head or car you are using. In my case, my cefiro was RB20DET. Since I was using a 25 n/a head i used all the sensors and harness that came with the car "rb20det" and bolted on the sensors to the 25 n/a head. Lots of the sensors are the same on the 25 n/a but have different plugs on em. If you are using a 26 head, you simply use the 26 sensors and 26 harness and convert to fit whatever chassis you are using.

        Still, with the rb30, depending on what car your dealing with on the conversion, it could be one of the cheapest power gains depending on the situation. If you got a skyline and use a rb25 N/A head you can easily get one running in any R32/R33 GTS/GTS25T for roughly $1500 plus fluids. Thats paying $1000 for a short block, $350 for a RB25 n/a head. A head gasket, tube of permetex, oil pump gasket and a timing belt. Modify the intercooler piping and the down pipe for the extra height which could be a free thing or you can get hosed if you dont have a welder and some scrap pipe. Then, you can piece together an upper rad hose or go behind the counter at crappy tire and match something up for around $20. I found some RX7 555's for $100 and slap in a rom. A few days of work and your running, if your savy.

        Its kinda a boring swap unless you have a turbo kit, injectors and some sort of software upgrade.
        Last edited by jdms13rhd; 11-05-2010, 06:21 AM.
        ALLEN PETERSEN
        Number (604) 961-2449
        4XTOYS/ Lower Mainland Skyline Service and aftermarket RB parts.
        RB30`s for sale!

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        • #34
          Should I go N1 oil pump or rebuilt reimax gears? Should I get my crank machined or buy a r34 crank? used or brand new?
          Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :

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          • #35
            Ok. I will go N1 pump unless i found a very good deal on an aftermarket pump or reimax gears. and I will get a new crankshaft for 300$ more than what a crank collar go for.

            I have a question now... In 3 years, I never did a compression test.. I'm a bit scared to discover a bad news. Anyways. let say my compression is low, can I simply rebuilt it or it means that my block is dead and I need another one. Simple question I just don't know the answer.
            Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :

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            • #36
              It all depends on the result of the comp test, If the numbers come back low and you decide to rebuild it - provided your block is still stock bore (hasn't been bored out yet) and there isnt bad scoring in the cylinder wall then it will be easy to have it machined and you will be able to use the same block again. I would seriously recommend doing one you can catch problems early with this, also with forced induction cars the boost can compensate for lost compression so you could have bent valves and not even know it.

              I change my plugs and oil every month and I hardly drive my car, when I have the plugs out I do a compression test - every single time. I know it isnt needed but I am meticulous with my car so it's simply for peace of mind. Not saying everyone should do this because it is costly but I think a comp test should be done regularly
              "LAG is the time the guy beside you thought he won"

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