r32 Gtr build list. imput???

[gtrjon]

GTR build list. hopefully done before end of this season. shooting for around 600 awhp.
tomei head gasket ($200)
arp head studs ($200)
N1 oil pump ($400)
t88 turbo ($1000)
manifold ($800)
waste gate ($200)
blow off valve ($200)
apexi power fc/aem ems ($1000)
downpipe ($100)
700cc injectors ($400)
fuel pump ($200)
oil catch can ($100)
aem water/meth kit ($300)
tomei timing belt/ gasket kit ($200)
twin plate clutch ($1500)
misc ($300) ,
$7000

So this is my plan right now. any imput guys. dont worry about the prices i was just ball parking to check my finances. let me know if you guys think i am missing anything. also not sure about what turbo i want to go with. t88 i am thinking is too big. but i am not sure i want 600 awhp let me know what you guys think

[frankiman]

600awhp?

crank?
pistons?
conrods?
bearings?
cams?
headwork?
intercooler?
all the custom piping?

[gtrjon]

i want to leave a stock bottom end. yes i know its not really safe but it has been done. if i blow it up throwing a rod thats fine but i want to see what i can do with a stock long block as much as possible. yes i need a bigger fmic. considering cams we will c wat the budget is like. looking to run lots of boost.

[Super_Dude]

Your prices our out to lunch. Especially the 300$ miscellaneous part. Its going to take a lot more than 7000 for a reliable 600awhp.

Instead of setting a horsepower goal and seeing how cheap you can get there. Set a budget and see how much horsepower you can get.

[Zacho]

What I'd do:

Don't buy a t88, its a dinosaur.
Don't forget the cost of a tune add in there and the cost of fabricating downpipe/dump
Dont smash the rev limiter
You will want to do some ignition upgrades more than likely


Your prices are on the lower side of the spectrum. And misc(300) I think will triple if not quadruple on a build for good power.

[gtrjon]

okay 600awhp is a goal its not a must have. i am not basing my build based on a certain hp number its just a goal that i would like to acheieve but not the only purpose of my build. like i said my prices mean nothing just a ball park and misc is the most irrelevant of all the prices i had set. i realize stuff comes up as you do a build this is not my first build. i have built many hondas and understand how this **** works. just looking for some imput on things you guys would add or take off things you guys would do differently. not looking for haters so thanks,

[gtrjon]

ignition good point i should add some good coils to the list.

[archaeic_bloke]

heres what I would change on that list...

- instead of only the tomei headgasket, get the full tomei gasket kit.. its $40 more, and it comes with ALL the exhaust manifold and intake manifold gaskets too... PLUS they always include an oil restrictor for the head... best bang for buck.

- forget about a BOV... you don't need one at all... either run straight through with no BOV, or leave the stock recirc system. don't waste money on BOV.. its only for sound, doesnt help performance. the only system that helps performance is actually the OEM recirc.

you don't need a giant turbo to make lots of power... instead of making BRUTE FORCE power, try to make smart power instead... consider things like a tomei poncam, they're $700 for a pair and will add 30-40 hp. you don't need head mods, except maybe valve springs.. its drop in, good way to make power.

you mentioned getting an N1 oil pump... are you aware that you cannot change the oil pump with out pulling the engine? and further ... you need to remove the oil sump pan before the pump will come off. and finally, changing only the oil pump to a new N1 won't help anything... its a waste of money.

whats your max oil pressure that you see when driving your car? do u ever see 5 or 7 bars?
either leave the oem oil pump alone (unless its broken - low oil pressure would be an indicator.. never goes above 4 bars when prblem)... or if u wanna change the oil pump, you better do the crank at the same time.. and with a new crank means new bearings.

consider the other parts of the motor... if u don't care if a rod lets go, then i wouldnt bother with the oil pump unless u need to since you'll be replacing all that a week after u get it on the road when the ring lands die from too much boost.
stock pistons and rings can't handle a lot of boost eh... u realize that?

also, Ignition.. bad point! stock coils are better than any aftermarket coil available.. 100%, RIPS builds 1000whp GTRs all the time and never use anything but stock coils. the only reason u need new coils is if oem coils are cooked... and to find out if they are, you just need to check the resistance on ur coils. check the FAQ DIY section to see how, it takes 20 minutes and might save you $600

lastly.. i think the first step you should do before anything else is a compression test... have u done one? do u know what state your engine is in currently?...

you want more power? acquire more knowledge first... golden rule: knowledge is power.

[gtrjon]

wow thanks man that was the kind of answer i was looking for. as you can tell i am a newb to nissans mostly a former honda guy but i have been doing lots of reading on here and have talked to a few of the guys at force fed and have decided to go big single with a relatively stock motor. i think your right about the oil pump i will leave it stock for now as i get good oil pressure. when cold i read about 6 bar. and i am aware of the r32 oiling system failures. i reailze i cannot run that much boost on stock rods pistions and rings but i want to run around 15 psi. dont get me wrong its not that i wont care if the bottom end gives out on me i am just saying its not the end of the world. i want to see what i can do with the stock motor and when it blows up i will build it up stronger with forged internals new crank crank collar and oil pump. i have looked at the tomei pon cam and your right they are a good idea good bang for the buck i will add them to my list. i just reacently purchased a second car as my dd so i no longer have to dd my gtr and can focus on building it. thats wat i ment by saying i dont care if i throw a rod because i do not depend on my gtr for transportation anymore. i do agree my goal of 600 awhp is off without forged internals and some more extensive mods but it was just a idea or goal i had in my head. something more realistic that i think i can achieve with a stock motor for the most part is 425-475 hp (while the motor last) but keep in mind this is mostly just for 1/4 mile i dont do alot of auto cross nor do i plan on raping on the car all day and i always stay away from the limiter.

[Zacho]

stock pistons and rings can't handle a lot of boost eh... u realize that?

you want more power? acquire more knowledge first... golden rule: knowledge is power.

stock cast piston strength should be concerned with detonation, not boost....

He wants to do things a certain way, I'm sure he will do it. You would be surprised what is possible on a stock bottom end.

[archaeic_bloke]

wow thanks man that was the kind of answer i was looking for.

Yay!~ lol..
you cleared up some things in your response and I'm more in aggreeance with your attitude now, i think your heading for some fun!

one reccomendation, start a build thread in the GTR project section... its fun to keep track and beside we all love reading build stories here.


I should say... i miss-spoke when i said "stock pistons and rings can't handle a lot of boost"... thats not true, as i was corrected... It all comes down to the tune. spend more time and money getting the car tuned properly than on cosmetics or things that won't help you accomplish ur goal.

if you think 15 PSI is your goal then you will be pleased, MOST people run 15 PSI on stock gtr engine with out any issue at all... infact nissan even made it possible to hit 15 Psi on stock turbos by just removing the boost restrictor in the oem solenoid line.

I've got a semi-rebuilt bottom end, meaning new crank bearings and oil pump. oem rods and pistons. I've been doing research on how far people push stock bottom ends to see where i can reach power wise. my conclusion was that 400 Wheel HP is easily do able.... 450 is less common, but some people even run as much as 500 wheel HP on stock bottom ends.. and they stil lhavent blown the motor!

it all comes down to the tune,.. if the tuner is good a stock bottom end shouldnt have a hard time for those power goals.... heres the breakdown of how they do it. remember all stock bottom end. only changes are add ons.

supporting mods are essential. for all 3 below every setup must have:
- minimum 3" exhaust downpipes and cat back
- intake mods like apexi cold suction kit

Now...this is SUPER rough, but to give u an idea...
1) stock head, stock turbos, boost controller @ 1 bar (14.7 PSI) = 375 whp

2) stock head, 2860R-5 turbos, more exhaust and intake mods, 600cc injectors, fuel pump, boost controller @ 1.2 bar (17.5 PSI) = 420 whp (give or take)

3) poncams, valve springs, either -5 turbos or big single, full exhaust and intake, 700cc injectors, fuel pump, boost controller to 1.4 Bar (20.5 Psi) = 460 whp.


1.4 bar seems to be the safe limit that most people will push on a stock bottom end.
1.2 is medium and 1.0 is rather super safe.

keep us posted

[gtrjon]

Yes exactly. i am not going to throw 30 psi through it but stock motors are strong. i am not relying on it to last forever but i want to see what it can do. its something different. one of my good friends has a mkv4 supra with a literally bone stock 2j long block except for injectors, fuel pump and a safc.(i know 2js and rb26 are different motors but just a example) all street tuned by him converted to a 70mm big single runing 16 psi and is at the track every week running 11s at 125+mph all day and has been for over a year now. oem motors are stong and i want to see what mine can do.

[NismoS-tune]

Yes exactly. i am not going to throw 30 psi through it but stock motors are strong. i am not relying on it to last forever but i want to see what it can do. its something different. one of my good friends has a mkv4 supra with a literally bone stock 2j long block except for injectors, fuel pump and a safc.(i know 2js and rb26 are different motors but just a example) all street tuned by him converted to a 70mm big single runing 16 psi and is at the track every week running 11s at 125+mph all day and has been for over a year now. oem motors are stong and i want to see what mine can do.

Don't be fooled by a supra, they have forged bottoms unlike a GTR.

[gtrjon]

Yay!~ lol..
you cleared up some things in your response and I'm more in aggreeance with your attitude now, i think your heading for some fun!

one reccomendation, start a build thread in the GTR project section... its fun to keep track and beside we all love reading build stories here.


I should say... i miss-spoke when i said "stock pistons and rings can't handle a lot of boost"... thats not true, as i was corrected... It all comes down to the tune. spend more time and money getting the car tuned properly than on cosmetics or things that won't help you accomplish ur goal.

if you think 15 PSI is your goal then you will be pleased, MOST people run 15 PSI on stock gtr engine with out any issue at all... infact nissan even made it possible to hit 15 Psi on stock turbos by just removing the boost restrictor in the oem solenoid line.

I've got a semi-rebuilt bottom end, meaning new crank bearings and oil pump. oem rods and pistons. I've been doing research on how far people push stock bottom ends to see where i can reach power wise. my conclusion was that 400 Wheel HP is easily do able.... 450 is less common, but some people even run as much as 500 wheel HP on stock bottom ends.. and they stil lhavent blown the motor!

it all comes down to the tune,.. if the tuner is good a stock bottom end shouldnt have a hard time for those power goals.... heres the breakdown of how they do it. remember all stock bottom end. only changes are add ons.

supporting mods are essential. for all 3 below every setup must have:
- minimum 3" exhaust downpipes and cat back
- intake mods like apexi cold suction kit

Now...this is SUPER rough, but to give u an idea...
1) stock head, stock turbos, boost controller @ 1 bar (14.7 PSI) = 375 whp

2) stock head, 2860R-5 turbos, more exhaust and intake mods, 600cc injectors, fuel pump, boost controller @ 1.2 bar (17.5 PSI) = 420 whp (give or take)

3) poncams, valve springs, either -5 turbos or big single, full exhaust and intake, 700cc injectors, fuel pump, boost controller to 1.4 Bar (20.5 Psi) = 460 whp.


1.4 bar seems to be the safe limit that most people will push on a stock bottom end.
1.2 is medium and 1.0 is rather super safe.

keep us posted

thanks for the great info i definatly appreciate it. i know tuning is huge and i plan to spend many hours on the dyno to get it perfect. its all in the tune. i will either be going to rg racing or forcefed performance not sure yet still have to talk to both of them more. i already have a ful 3.5 in turbo back exhaust with a test pipe. i also have a fmic and hks ic piping and apexi filters. i plan on keeping it under 1.4 bar more like 1.2 but thats still a little over my 15 psi idea. we will c. i have pushed my stock turbos to .9 bar at the track. so hopefully i will see some decent numbers with some pon cams and a big single. ill make a build thread and keep all of you posted. thanks for all the help!!!