stock boost restriction?

[Rocketeer]

After reading this thread I decided to take the boost restrictor out yesterday. Took about ten minutes to wiggle it out with a tiny flathead screwdriver, and I reset the ecu by unplugging the battery. She's running like a champ now, boosting to .9 bar as she should, and I gotta say the extra HP is damn fun!

I liked the idea of being able to put the restrictor back in place should I decide to be easy on my car, but I realized that not often will I tromp my foot all the way down to require the .9 bar of boost (although I have been since I took it out yesterday haha). Its just nice to have the extra power at my disposal

Thx for the info guys.

[gtrjerry73]

Thanks for the info skym I did use carb cleaner on my maf i did a quick google search and carb cleaner came up alot and thats all i had on hand and i live 40 mins out of the nearest store that would carry anything else but i will use the proper stuff nect time and ya i would like to do a few runs with a laptop hooked up to see what's goin on when I experience boost cut if it's knock related or what I don't know for sure but again I put v-power in and haven't seen boost cut still so until I hook er up to a computer I guess it's hard to say exactly but this is a bit off topic anyway. I have had the restrictor out for probably a thousand clicks now and had no issues aside from previously mentioned unrelated issue. And again I am running everything a hundred percent stock intake exhaust, everything.

[Skym]

Also look on Youtube, as has videoclips like this from CRC for their CRC MAF cleaner, etc -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPT8rL0noYg

With ECU's that control boost level, they can have main boost duty map, knock boost duty map. Basically they can drop boost level when knock happens, so it's worth investigating. Can be things like faulty coilpacks, anything knocking against engine that knock sensors can pickup. Also I was told I can tap knock sensors by hand and knock count rises in tuning software (to check if knock count is working).

Another thing to look at is testing internal wastegate actuators on bench (or on car if you can reach them and supposedly gives different reading compared to on bench, but have only done it on bench with 2x wastegate actuators for my car). Just need to plumb in (T fitting) a boost gauge to internal wastegate actuator bulb and apply compressed air carefully to see at what boost level on boost gauge the internal wastegate actuator (2x on GTR) moves the arm.

Factory R32GTR internal wastegate actuator should be around 9.94psi-11.36psi.

It must have been really late when you wrote this (noon here, 4am there?) because that is not really very good info there Skym.

Was late, feels like I'm on Canadian time (I blame my Canadian genes hahaha). Also doesn't help when I'm stressed, tired. Reading it again, your probably right.

Just when I have noticed people removing the boost restrictor and run a single solenoid boost controller it seems to cause boost control problems. But when running a dual solenoid the problem disappears. Makes me think the boost restrictor acts as a second solenoid. One person I read about added a manual bleed to act as a adjustable restrictor, boost control problem solved.

ECU has a load cut (fuelcut?) setting for MAF's. Some know it as a boost cut. It should hit that boost / load cut before MAF's max out. Also the fuel maps for RB26 look very lean to me. Alot leaner than RB20 fuel maps (I think I compared / overlayed them one time, just for giggles), but RB26 is running bigger cc injectors.

[Dragon Humper]

Skym.......that's a good read you sent me in my PM, thought I would pass it on here.

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=811

Gives alot of insite into just how adjustable and capable the factory brain is with a little help from NisTune. It kind of re-affirmed some things I though I knew and opened my eyes to what you can acomplish with the factory controller and computer. One thing you will run into is the fuel cut if you are consuming more air than the factory MAF maps will allow. Usually you won't have a problem unless you are running 90mm exhaust, no cat, pod filters and hard pipes to really free up the flow. But then, if you have all of that, you won't have the factory ECU and boost controller anymore either.



Jon.