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AAC Valve issue?

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  • AAC Valve issue?

    So I was going to set my idle because it was at 1200 and I unplugged the AAC Valve connector and there was absolutly no change at all. I used a multimeter and probed the connector at idle and got -10v (+red on the left pin and -black on the right pin looking inside the connector with the clip tab on top) I switched them around and got +10v.

    Could these be switched?

    ALSO, once the connector was unbluged like I said NOTHING happened at all. Idle stayed exactly where it was, I turned the adjustment screw clockwise (lower idle) until it was almost in all the way and the idle went to 980.

    I'm guessing I need a new AAC Valve and need to clean this one, correct?

  • #2
    correct.
    take it out and clean it.If it doesn't help.Let me know.I have one here .Just pay the shipping and its all good.
    Also check your tps.Make sure is a .4 @ close throttle and "4.5" what ever at full throttle.
    No need to start the car.Just ignition on the on position.
    Good luck
    You Love Japan and Japan hates you.Fck JDM

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    • #3
      Originally posted by actionbstard View Post
      correct.
      take it out and clean it.If it doesn't help.Let me know.I have one here .Just pay the shipping and its all good.
      Also check your tps.Make sure is a .4 @ close throttle and "4.5" what ever at full throttle.
      No need to start the car.Just ignition on the on position.
      Good luck
      I was going to buy one first because I have one gasket and if it didn't fix it then it would take more time. I have money in my paypal if I could buy that one from you, I found one on Ebay but I was like $5 shy.

      I did just that check on my TPS it's at .54 at idle and 4.? at WOT.

      Curious as to what your timing is at cruise and under load? That's the area I'm in for the WOT issue I'm still having because my cruise timing is in the 40*'s and under load is 21-25 before it breaks up and I've seen it hit 28 once under load at 15psi boost.

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      • #4
        yes, adjust your TPS to .44 i had mine at.51 and it was misfiring, stalling and etc. once i adjusted it down its running like a charm now.

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        • #5
          You sure its supposed to be at .44v? Pretty sure its .49v with ignition on but not running.
          I canz take this corner at 195k cause i gots AWDZ. Get real.

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          • #6
            ^^agreed^^

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            • #7
              The 0.44V is where the idle contact pin is supposed to be. But idle contact pin can bend over time. Idle contact pin tells ECU to switch to idle, etc tables. If ECU doesn't switch to idle, etc tables, engine can start to stall (rev needle drops below idle rpm) when engine is put under load and could stall.

              These are the correct voltages for R32 TPS (RB20DET) -

              DEPRESSED : 4.02V
              RELEASED : 0.44V
              RANGE : 3.58V
              SPEC : MORE3.0V

              The DEPRESSED voltage is slightly too high by 0.02V.

              Also not sure if it GTS TPS voltages differ to GTR TPS.

              High idle can be due to IACV is sticking or faulty and needs to be replaced. Sometimes the high idle is due to intake airleak near hoses that feed air to IACV, AACV.

              If adjusting AACV, need to put stock ECU into idle adjustment mode (screw on side of ECU) and unplug AACV. Then adjust screw on AACV to correct idle rpm. Then plug in AACV plug and see if it stays at that idle rpm and adjust screw on side of ECU to run mode. Also screw on side of ECU can adjust idle rpm by small increments, so I think ECU has to be in run mode before plug in AACV plug.
              RESPONSE MONSTER

              The most epic signature ever "epic".

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              • #8
                If your recirc valve is leaking by that will also cause a high idle... apparently.

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