who ever talks about putting a getrag in an R32 AND does the R32 ratios shouldn't be aloud to spend that much money
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R34 Motor and 6 speed trans in R32 GTR.
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Ok, So if I do this in the end I'll be using a R34 FD as I'll have to by a rear driveshaft/crossmember so I will just get a rear diff as well. As for the overall plan, the motor was split on Monday, couldn't really find a issue with the headgasket, no missing pieces, burn marks.... etc... The head appeared the be fine, the number one cylinder was washed down, pistons and cylinder walls looked great, no marks or excessive wear....
So I dropped the head off to be pressure tested, if it passes, then it'll be prepared and I'll build the motor again, if it fails, the R34 swap will be ordered. As I still have two month's of solid driving left to summer, I can always put the r34 swap in the winter. I just want to enjoy the car.
The Parts List is as follows for the rebuild:
Cometic Street Pro Gasket kit
Cometic Phuzion Headgasket
Arp Headstuds
N1 Waterpump
53mm Rad\Fans\Shroud
Coolant Breather Bottle
Greddy Intake Manifold
Trust 4" Intercooler and full piping kit
Stainless Manifolds and dumps.
Parts List for R34 Swap:
R34 Motor and Tranny
R34 GTR Tranny crossmember(having trouble finding)
R34 Rear driveshaft and rear diff(also having trouble finding)
The Performance parts from the rebuild will be fitted to this motor. The thing with the R34 swap is that I can build twice the motor, for the price of the swap alone..
In the end, I'm just waiting to get the results on the head. That will determine the directionI want to go in. Thnaks for the input. If I'm missing anything in the swap list let me know, and if you know where I can find some of the parts.... please foward me the info.
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Originally posted by jrhdohc View Postgood price.
Holinger retail is 30k after tax in my location. good clutch and misc 3k. i'd say 35k just to be safe.
35-45k figure is for a custom magnesium cased seq. thats on my wishlist.
I'm sure you can find a cheaper mission.
3.5 FD, 6th gear will be useless. unless you're doing >200mph top speed runs.
4.1 FD, 1st gear will work great in traffic but not so great for hard launching.
In our part of the world, magnesium is outlawed by just about every racing body due to the fact that it can burn on its own, very Effing hot I might add. It's cool and all but really, why put a $40,000 tranny in a $5000 car. This is most likely why I look at some of the price tags of some of the builds I see coming out of Japan and Aus. and just shake my head (so that's how they spent $250,000).
I don't know, to each there own I guess, but I find really deep gears to be a pain in the ass on a car I cruise on the street. 1st is always too low, so I start out in 2nd alot (stock box and gears). On the track, 1st is WAY to low (a Getrag and 2nd gear with 4.10s would be better but a bit on the tall side, especially with taller than stock drag radials).
To be honest I would much rather be in 5th in the Getrag on a track that can handle those speeds because 1 to 1 in 5th wouldn't heat up your tranny fluid as much as it would if you were using 6th's overdrive. It puts MUCH less strain on the case. Having that nice tall overdrive with 3.54's would be great for roadtrips as well.
Jon.Last edited by Dragon Humper; 07-03-2011, 03:01 AM.Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.
1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD
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