test drive = FAIL! please provide feedback

[skreamz]

Crappy man I hope you get er all patched up!

[cschepp]

Ok so now that the turbos have been changed everything seemed to be alot better. No white smoke coming out the exhaust or anything like that. Funny thing is though I checked the dipstick and it still read high.... Which is really weird because when I filled it up I only put the required 4.7 liters and I lost alot of that through all the pipes etc. So now I have taken the intercooler and all the hard piping off and have watched a shiit ton of oil seep out. I want to know how to fully clear out the system and start fresh because this car needs to be on the road asap. Also dirtyburger came over last night and we took a gander under the hood and it ran fine and out of no where on idle the car stalled out.... We though WTF but it hasn't been the first time to do this. I do have crappy coil packs in there and hopefully will switch those out asap but for the time being I don't hear any boost being built up and when I try going wot it feels like it hits a brick wall.

Can someone please help with some suggestions. This is such a pain in the ass. I need to get this thing done and on the road already.

[GAWDZRA]

if you said your ic was filled with oil. i would check the maf's if they got fouled. that might be your stalling issue.

[GTRADDICT]

It just pooped out? Ignitor or CAS? I find it weird that the car would stall for a bad coil. Meaby all the coils failed at the same time but I don't think so. MAF could cause the "hitting a wall" combined with what I just said... Good luck

[cschepp]

^ thanks guys keep the suggestions coming!

Ok so here's what I'm going to do..... I am going to flush all the fluids and start fresh just to make sure I have all the right levels and everything is fine in that area. Now as for the mafs I doubt that is the problem because dirty burger brought his over and didn't change one bit! Now the coils that I did get were really old and beat up looking and I will change the plugs again to see what's going on. I threw in the bkr7e's last time and galled them to .8 anyone see a problem there? That's what I understood they needed to be galled to. Anyways I will prolly take another run at it tomorrow as everything else on the car is running well.

[cschepp]

Oh and believe me guys/gals I appreciate all the help I can get!

[DarkCaporaL]

This is what the manual says for engine stalling during idling:

Improper idling speed
• Improper AAC valve control (Check for delayed response.)
• Excessively lean or rich mixture ratio
• Ignition error
• Poor contact of connector, etc.

• Relation to electrical load ON·OFF

I

Self-diagnosis I

I

Check if any abnormal data is stored in
self-diagnosis.
Idling control? (See 5-4)
Is idling speed normal or adjusted?
Is AAC valve fully closed? (Check for
loose connector.)
Close AAC valve and check for any
change.
Is AAC valve control signal issued?
(Race engine and check voltage.)
- Is AAC valve operation normal? (CONSULT
active test)
Disconnect AAC valve connector, and
check by adjusting with lAS.

See if idle judgment is ON.

I

Air-fuel ratio? !<see 6-7)

1---------------

Is air-fuel ratio normal?------- Select self-diagnosis mode 2 and check
if exhaust gas temperature warning
lamp (or red lamp on control unit) is
flashing more than 5 times in 10 seconds
when engine is running at 2,000
rpm, or check by CONSULT data monitor.
r-.--------------Check by enriching the mixture.---- Enrich using "FUEL INJECTION" item of
CONSULT active test mode, by disconnecting
pressure regulator vacuum
hose or closing off the return hose.

1---------------

Check by making the mixture lean.-- Reduce the mixture ratio by using
"FUEL INJECTION" item of CONSULT
active test mode, or applying vacuum
greater than -66.7 kPa (-500 mmHg,
-19.69 inHg) with hand pump to pressure
regulator.
-{
Perform CONSULT active test (0% airfuel
ratio is obtained by "FUEL
INJECTION")

1------------'----

Check by stopping feedback. Or
Disconnect exhaust gas sensor connector.
(Set circuit from racing mode one
time and return to idling mode.)

1---------------

Check fuel pump operation.----- Check for pump stop.
'---------------- Check fuel system for clogging.--- Race engine and check fuel pressure
for drop.

~--------------

Check for poor contact.------- Using real-time diagnosis mode, check
ignition signal, crank angle sensor signal
and air flow meter signal for instantaneous
break and missing pulses. (Use
CONSULT data mode or oscilloscope.)

'----------------- Check spark plugs.-------- Check for fouling and plug gap.