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just no luck.........i hate you rb26!

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  • just no luck.........i hate you rb26!

    So a member on here and i went to try and fix some of his problems today. Dirtyburger and I took a spin out in his gtr and it seemed to pull alright went for a couple minute drive and came back with not any torubles except it was heating up for some reason and he didnt seem to think it was running right as it used to run a sh!t ton better. So i brought over some parts(mafs and igniter ) hoping that this would be th problem and as soon as we tossed them in i think the problem got worse. Now the car struggled to start and it was backfiring like a mother pucker. So we looked everywhere for vac leaks, and stuff like that, including a blown of intecooler pipe and nope nothing. now his boost gauge doesnt read anything either just like my car, now im thinking wtf!!!!

    We had to call it a day because he had to go to work but we do want to get this problem taken care of asap! please provide some suggestions as we are thinking it would be either stuck injectors or **** fpr because you can smell nothing but fuel up front when starting.

    here is a video of the car trying to climb on idle and just bog. mine does roughly the same thing:

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    any help would be appreciated.
    Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

  • #2
    Nothing??? No ideas?? Trade it in for a Corolla? lol

    This issue began very lightly... Then a tagged a curb at about 20kms, a good jolt but light visable damage. Thats when the issue really began. The problem almost seems like once the car is up to temp, there is no spark. New spitfires just installed too. Also tried different ecu's.

    Is it possible the FPR would operated different at a higher temp? Its either a wack load too much fuel or not enough spark..

    Is it possible a bad ground on the engine could cause this
    -91' GTR, eventually a reliable track/street car... Might not be not untrue..

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    • #3
      Or the injectors just suck and got stuck open because it seems like this could happen but very rarely. I wonder if it's the piece that is in charge of managing the injectors.... Forget the name but I have an extra one of those too, we could try that.
      Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

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      • #4
        This should be interesting.......You guys are having the same kinds of problems that I'm having with my 32. I tried all the same things the leaks, the injectors, igniter, MAFs, FPR, you get the point. The only fix I could find to get me driving a GTR was buying a R33. One day when I get some motivation I'll figure it out but for now it's way too hot.
        Good luck and I'll be keeping a close eye on how you guys make out.

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        • #5
          Cam angle sensor?
          Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
          www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
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          Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

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          • #6
            What do your plugs look like?
            R32 GTR FULL SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD:
            http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/36-holy-bible-6.html#post467565

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            • #7
              My plugs don't look bad but we didn't check dirtyburgers out as he just hanged them not to long ago. I want to try switching the injector resistor box and see of this changes anything. I had one crap out on me and the car ran similar to his. I'm just trying to use the process of elimination.
              Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

              Comment


              • #8
                The plugs have about 10,000k's on them. I had them out about a week before the problem began. They looked pretty good... All six matched. Didnt check the gap though.. didnt think i needed to.
                I havnt checked them since the problem began, just checked that they were all tight... maybe I shold take a peak?!
                -91' GTR, eventually a reliable track/street car... Might not be not untrue..

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by cschepp View Post
                  I want to try switching the injector resistor box and see of this changes anything. I had one crap out on me and the car ran similar to his. I'm just trying to use the process of elimination.
                  hope this helps your easter egg hunt.
                  as per gtr tech manual-
                  injector check- place stethoscope or screw driver (long one) on injector body. place to ear and listen for clicking. if all are clicking move to spark. if no clicking. measure voltage between injector terminal 2 and ground. should be battery voltage with ignition switch on. verify with oscope if needed. if good inspect connector fit. if faulty measure terminal 1 to ground. should get battery voltage when ignition switch is on. if other. measure injector resistance (2-3 ohms). if not replace injector. if good, measure dropping resistors. 3 -to- 1,4,5,6,7,8. all should be 5 ohms. replace if not 5. if good, check harness. if good, check injector to computer (inj-ecu pin: 1-101, 3-103, 2-105, 5-110, 6-112, 4-114). if good. check computer input voltage. if good check input systems to computer (sensors).

                  I would check the codes first.

                  also, if both AFM are faulty, pulse width becomes fixed (super rich) and fuel cut off is 2400rpm. AFM connectors can be faulty. if you play with them too much. 20 years of turbo heat and pulling the wires while unplugging. inspect connector and test harness.

                  good luck. take your time.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the help man. I will try this out. I'm more concerned about the loads of fuel right now because he is getting way to much up front.
                    Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

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                    • #11
                      Have you checked your timing?
                      I canz take this corner at 195k cause i gots AWDZ. Get real.

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                      • #12
                        I think the timing should be fine... It runs tops until it heats up...

                        JRHDOHC.. Thanks for the breakdown.. I think the Afm's is a good possibility now that i think of it... After car was up to temp, it would cut off around 2,500 rpm... Im gonna have to check that, then I will get into the fuel delivery if its not it.. Hopefully this helps Cschepp too. Thanks guys
                        -91' GTR, eventually a reliable track/street car... Might not be not untrue..

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                        • #13
                          Hmmm, not Skyline specific, but I seem to recall hearing with other vehicles that ran great until they warmed up, that the oxygen sensor could be the culprit.

                          Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not all that knowledgable on the the subject, but the just of it is that the oxygen sensor is useless until it warms up (it just flat lines, sending out a constant voltage). So the ECU runs in open loop mode until it starts to get a varying signal from the O2 sensor. Then it switches to closed loop mode.

                          Good luck!
                          BlackAura (Kevin)
                          1995 ZX600C8 Kawasaki Ninja 600R - FOR SALE - See Marketplace
                          2003 Wrangler Jeep TJ Rubicon
                          1991 BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R - Sold

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                          • #14
                            sounds reasonable .... disconnect O2 sensors and see if problem goes away when warm ?

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                            • #15
                              Doesn't your engine have a possibility of going lean when you do this? And does anyone happen to have the part number? I will replace mine anyways and see if this helps as mine look to be older(prolly around the 100k range) should probably maintain it like I have the rest of the vehicle
                              Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

                              Comment

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