just no luck.........i hate you rb26!

[cortexx]

had something similar to this when i originally pulled out the airpod filters to blow them out, i had the MAF pigtails in the wrong mafs , swapped them over and it went away .

[cortexx]

Also , the narrow band (aka factory) O2 sensors are ignored on WOT , the ECU runs from it's fuel map making slight changes based on MAF info and knock sensors etc. The narrowband o2 sensors go out of range .

[MattiasJacobs]

Are you running BOV's? I was going to take my car in for tuning before I got it back from an e-test with rod knock... Curse you shop and or stock motor! My engine would bog out like that too. Radek insisted I have Diverter Valves installed because it's supposed to be recirculated to stop the engine from running too rich when coming off the throttle. You really notice how rich it gets if you have a wideband and you see why the engine struggles to stay alive. Diverter valves are for sure in store for my car once I get my hands on a fully built engine.

[DarkCaporaL]

Doesn't your engine have a possibility of going lean when you do this? And does anyone happen to have the part number? I will replace mine anyways and see if this helps as mine look to be older(prolly around the 100k range) should probably maintain it like I have the rest of the vehicle

NGK 24064 are OE replacements. Around 50$ a pop. (GTR has 2)

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-tech/5496-o2-sensor-compatibility-3.html

[cschepp]

Thank you sir! I will go get a set of these bad boys today and giver a whirl. If this works then I'm sure we will both be extremely happy. Dirty burger you mofo give me a ring. We can get together and try this! Then your car will pull like a mother fucka again!

[DarkCaporaL]

Usually doesn't tell you much but did you check the ECU for codes? It's possible the ECU is detecting knock and going into fail-safe (or bad knock sensor). The ECU should throw a code if this happens.

Check the manual diagnosis page EN-127 and so on.

[cschepp]

We alreadycheck for codes we both got 55. We will truths o2 sensors next though

[DirtyBurger]

I swapped in a test pipe. In the process, I ran it on idle out the down pipes for about 10 minutes with the 02 hanging, and there seemed to be no change with or without the 02 sensor... Hopefully this fixes our problem... Cschepp, Im gonna give you a call in about a hour..

[jrhdohc]

most diagnostic consults can actively monitor O2 signals. Or you could monitor the O2 sensor via exhaust temperature sensor lamp or ecu lamp.

are you talking about the sensor in the cat? its the exhust temperature sensor.

[DirtyBurger]

lol... right...duh. im going to check the o2's hopefully today

[BlackAura]

Oh, other thing I read on Skylines Australia, if you do put in new O2 sensors, you need to reset your ECU, as apparently it'll run like crap (it's adjusted everything to the expected O2 amounts and only does minor changes now).

(as per post #22 here, second one on page: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...r/page__st__20)

[caliber676]

If you unplug the o2 sensor, your engine will run in open loop. Its a good indicator if your 02 sensors are working. Just unplug the connectors and observe how it runs. If it runs a lot better then its more than likely your 02 sensors, no need to shotgun the problem and waste $100. On starting and warm up the ecu runs on open loop (set fueling perimeters). Once the car warms up and thusly the 02 sensor, the vehicle will pick up the cross-counts of the 02 sensor and put the vehicle in closed loop running the fuel trim off the o2 sensors rich/lean fluctuations. If your 02 sensor is faulty and giving a constant lean reading once it is warmed up and put in closed loop you will have an over fueling issue.

Its also good at this time to check all your inputs to the ecu that determine fueling, assuming that you have concluded your outputs (injectors) and fuel delivery system is operating properly.

[DirtyBurger]

O,K.... Bottom line right now____ car wont even start any more..

I double checked the plugs, soaked in fuel but gaped perfect (.8mm, for 14psi)
Pulled my Prof. sheepdog BOV's (atmospheric) off, and found two machine screws came really loose creating a mean leak..

Fixed that and a small vacuum leak... Excited about the possible resaults....

I took it out for a small drive, boosted hard, not pushed though... Got some fresh fuel and hasnt started since...

Had it towed home...

Cranked, and cranked and was on the lines of burning out he starter..

ECU still says code 55. I unpluggled the o2 sensors and still no change.... While i did have it running, I unpluggled the MAF"S and died right away.... I also tried a different ignitor and maf's that i knew worked properly.

Im in the process of pulling of the bumper to check all intercooler piping thourghly...

I found a old thread called "white smoke" or "limp mode" in the search... A guy from miami with all the same symptoms but no answers... Ideas.

AAC? Cas?

[cschepp]

If you want man the cas is here. I do think it is going to be your intake side piping going to your intercooler. Once you check all that give me a ring and let me know man. If you need more space to work on it just bring it down here and we can rip on it till she's mint. Btw I found some nice turboes for ya if you want a good set

[DirtyBurger]

Pulled the bumper and found a f,in leak in cold side of IC pipes... Finally, it starts, runs rough but idles a bit hight (1080) rpm.
The minute it gets hot, she doesnt want to idle anymore. Wont start agian until it cools down