usually an over fueling issue not caused by an o2 sensor or fuel trims is a problem in the fuel delivery system. Try testing your fuel pressure. Hook a gauge before the rail and observe pressure then compare to spec. If your pressure is really high as with over fueling then diagnose your pressure regulator as this can cause injectors to open under pressure. Also, pressurize the system (car not running) and pinch both the inlet and return lines between the fuel rail (make sure the pinched line is before the gauge) and check to see that the pressure holds, if it drops then your injectors are sticking open and need to be cleaned or replaced.
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just no luck.........i hate you rb26!
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Originally posted by dirtyburger View Postpulled the bumper and found a f,in leak in cold side of ic pipes... Finally, it starts, runs rough but idles a bit hight (1080) rpm.
The minute it gets hot, she doesnt want to idle anymore. Wont start agian until it cools down03 lancer dead
68 gmc w/355 cid rice killer
05 chevy silverado L33
2010 crv Wife's ride
1987 Harley Softail custom
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Have you tried easy things like timing? A loose cas can do this if it retards
Good thing you're doing the troubleshooting yourself. It'd be pretty expensive if it was a slow process. Throwing all sorts of parts at something broken works in the Lon run i guess. I beat things till they spit out part numbers.
Just don't break anything with all that excess fuel.
Cas man, forget all the other parts before you need a parts car.Last edited by Bruizer; 07-28-2011, 04:10 PM.No build thread.
1991 nissan
El terror
"Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"
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Had the exact problem a month ago. Everyone here said CAS, and they were right. It fixed the problem right away.
1990 Skyline GTS --- SOLD
1992 Skyline GTR Lawn Ornament
2004 Toyota Matrix XRS --Grocery getter
1998 Mazda B2500 -- for sale
2000 Honda Accord- Fully loaded winter beater
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Well, I located a spare cas.... big thanks to *cschepp*... and of course.. you guys who were all right... You guys are great, thanks alot... The CAS was pretty much siezed, im lucky the connecting shaft didnt break off.
I just got so friegen tied up in checking other shiit. I learned quite a lot along the way though, so it wasnt all lost time.... Also found a variety of small issues along the way..
The boost feels strong again and throttle response is much better now... But the idle is a bit bumpy...
On my test drive, i did notice the voltage go up to about 17 v. and bounce around a bit.. It does calm back down to 14.4v while running but slightly misbehaves..
The RB seems a little hotter under the hood than normal too...
Is it possible i may have caused some damage from idling and cranking with a bad cas?-91' GTR, eventually a reliable track/street car... Might not be not untrue..
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No problem! When you get ripped off 1000$ with a VW and all is wrong is the CAS and he doesn't tell you... You learn fast lol
If your voltage is going higher then 14.7 or so your voltage regulator is pooped. You don't want to wait and fix that... will overload you batterie and it will boil.
EDIT: you might have fouled a plug with all the cranking... meaby03 lancer dead
68 gmc w/355 cid rice killer
05 chevy silverado L33
2010 crv Wife's ride
1987 Harley Softail custom
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if the engine is lumpy idling or "hunting" , then you might have a bit too much advance on the CAS , this will aso make the engine run hotter.. a slightly faster idle will also signify this . Did you check the timing when you replaced the CAS ?Last edited by cortexx; 08-01-2011, 10:22 AM.
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I just have foul plugs because of other reasons but I did replace my cas and haven't set the timing yet. I know dirtyburger will be doin his. I wonder if he will want to come swing by and tackle mine with me. I'll have to give the Mofo a callMiss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!
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