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  • Boost piping size

    Hey guys I'm switching my setup from -5's and 3" piping to single turbo. I noticed a lot of guys running 2.5 or 2.25 on hot side and 3" on cold side.

    Does anyone have any expearience with power curves, peak hp, response with different boost pipe sizes?

    Taylor

  • #2
    Originally posted by newalliance123 View Post
    Hey guys I'm switching my setup from -5's and 3" piping to single turbo. I noticed a lot of guys running 2.5 or 2.25 on hot side and 3" on cold side.

    Does anyone have any expearience with power curves, peak hp, response with different boost pipe sizes?

    Taylor
    May I ask why you are switching?
    03 lancer dead
    68 gmc w/355 cid rice killer
    05 chevy silverado L33
    2010 crv Wife's ride
    1987 Harley Softail custom

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    • #3
      ive heard its supposted to increase spool time.... never seen a actual comparrison with dyno sheets tho..
      1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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      • #4
        Just looking for more power... would like to get to the 700-800 hp range over winter.

        It seems like most of the turbo's im looking at have a 2.5" outlet so im thinking probably run a 2.5" outlet to IC and then 3" on otherside of IC.

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        • #5
          7-800whp or fw hp ? Id like to know to as I also might be switching to a big single
          "LAG is the time the guy beside you thought he won"

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          • #6
            700-800 atw would want 3" piping.

            700-800 atf you could get away with 2.5 but it wouldn't leave much head room.

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            • #7
              ATW. I would like to hit around 700 WHP and get to 750-800 with a nitrous setup. I also will accept that power level on C16 as that is what the car will most likely see 25% of its life.

              Just trying to figure a turbo setup still... I have the 6boost manifold with T4 flange. I was kind of thinking GT40 or GT42 but maybe a borg warner efr. So many options and im just learning as much as I can about compressor maps etc.

              Any info is good info.

              So 3" piping would be nice as that is what I currently have made up, it was just a lot of lag on the 2860's that I thought was unnecessary.

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              • #8
                So 3" piping would be nice as that is what I currently have made up, it was just a lot of lag on the 2860's that I thought was unnecessary.[/QUOTE]

                what are you expecting with a big single then lol.....
                1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by newalliance123 View Post
                  I was kind of thinking GT40 or GT42 but maybe a borg warner efr. So many options and im just learning as much as I can about compressor maps etc.

                  Any info is good info.

                  So 3" piping would be nice as that is what I currently have made up, it was just a lot of lag on the 2860's that I thought was unnecessary.
                  Yah think 2860's lag ? LOL , LOL
                  .
                  Big singles make all the boost in the last half ! So your going to wait for it . If you had LAG, then you had other issues ! They could be many, depending on the way you have designed your system and the component volumes. Compressed air is 3 dimensional and kinetic.
                  " Using Fast and Honda in the same sentence is an Oxymoron "

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                  • #10
                    Well most of the lag with the -5's were due to 3" piping. I have seen many single setups that have almost exactly the same time to come on boost as twins. If you think single = lag that's kind of incorrect as there are many factors mainly turbo sizing, it is all on how its setup, which is the same thing with twins obviously.

                    Well see I'll try the single setup this winter and see what kind of difference it makes I'm also switching to a 3L and MAP so maybe not the best comparison.

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                    • #11
                      If you didn't like the lag with the 2860's, you're going to hate driving a 700whp skyline.
                      The turbo lags, and you need big cams for that power which further increases lag.
                      Good luck.

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                      • #12
                        Hey,

                        If your going big turbo, I would suggest looking into this little things to help you with the spool up time.

                        PLEASE NOTE THESE ARE CURRENTLY ON BACKORDER UNTIL SOUND PERFORMANCE HAS A REPLACEMENT ACTUATOR OPTION. WE DO NOT HAVE A TIMEFRAME OF WHEN THESE WILL BE AVAILABLE AND READY TO SHIP AGAIN ALL VALVES ARE NOW THE HD VERSION!!! Okay, so you have read or are about to read what is below and you want the brief-no-nonsense quick opinion from SupraStore. Here it goes. The greatest single complaint we get from people switching from stock twins to a larger single turbo is LAG. Many people are just tired of having to deal with the lag of a bigger turbo. Bottom line, with the quick spool valve, your 62-67mm single turbo will spool quicker, hit harder and faster, and make much better torque and horsepower than your stock twins! End-of-story, read the stuff below for the technical nuts-and-bolts. What about bigger turbos? Same result: spool quickly, lag minimized, bam!! Now that you are convinced, watch the video and notice the first two dyno runs without the quick spool valve in quick spool mode, you will see how long it takes after the driver put the accelerator to the floor for it to get on big boost and spool. Now, fast forward to around 1:42 in the video and watch the quick spool switched on. Pay attention or you will miss it, as soon as the driver nails the throttle, WHAM, BAM, it spools NOW!! Oh - why buy from us? Simple, I have personally known Larry at SP for years, have tormented him back in the day and was running 900rwhp+ 10 years ago on a stock motor with one of the first SP74mm turbo's on the planet. That isn't a reason? Well, then, we sell it for LESS!! Are you a hard core racer, running explosive anti-lag or 2-step blasts on your car? If so, worry not, as all of the QSVs are now the HD version for us hardcore enthusiasts! This is one of the BEST upgrades for everyone running a T3 T4 or T6 turbo. The Quick Spool Valve has proven to produce as much as 150ft/lbs MORE TORQUE in the midrange of the powerband, AND it will make more peak power as well due to the turbo spooling faster. The Quick Spool Valve has a butterfly valve blocking a scroll of the divided turbo housing, making the turbo act as if it were a smaller turbo. All the exhaust energy is routed through half the turbine housing, causing the turbo to spool at a much more rapid rate. In other words, the spool valve is essentially "halving" the turbine A/R when the valve is closed, and then you get close to full A/R when it is opened. For example lets say you have a .86 A/R 76GTS turbo. With the quick spool valve operating, at lower rpm's it acts like a turbo with a .43 A/R housing, which means it spools very quickly, shifting the power band downward on the curve and allowing for much quicker build up of hp and torque! When the valve opens, you end up with about 95%+ of your total A/R available and full boost. Incredible for street cars!!! The switching solenoid can be wired up to open at a set point and when the valve opens up, you have the full potential of your turbo with no sacrifice of peak power. The Quick Spool Valve thickness is 3/4" so this is going to require either modification to the exhaust manifold or the downpipe to compensate for the height increase of 3/4". The valve sits between your turbo exhaust housing flange (sometimes called a footprint) and the exhaust manifold. All QSV's require final fitment by the installer and may require slight clearance mods depending upon the turbo. People are asking, "how does it work with smaller T4 turbos? " Well, it works fantastic, as the design is not dependent of a large turbo, or for that matter, a large A/R. A 7MGTE owner with a 62mm turbo (see dyno sheet) was able on stock 7MGTE with SAFC on stock ECU to see a shift of 500-600rpm sooner spool, and a maximum gain of 50hp and 71torque at 3500 rpm! The red line on the dyno sheet is a dyno run with the valve closed; the blue line is with the valve open, as if there was no valve. YOU MUST HAVE A NON DIVIDED MANIFOLD! If you have a divided manifold, we offer our own QuickSilver manifolds to suit your needs. Note: International shipping includes most of the UK & Australia. Other major cities may be the same or more depending upon location. If your city costs more for shipping charges we will notify you of the price before we charge your credit card.


                        There a few places that sells them or you could make one your self.

                        Here is a pic of a dyno sheet, I think it's self explanatory.



                        Good luck
                        Last edited by collector240sx; 08-13-2011, 05:38 PM.
                        14 VW Jetta TDI
                        05 Sentra SpecV - winter beater -
                        95 240sx (RB25DET powered)
                        95 240sx ( powered)
                        89 GTR - Money Pit -

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                        • #13
                          wow interesting concept. ive never even heard of it before but in theory it makes sense. their whole 150 more whp is kinda embelished because at the end of the day it doesnt increase any power just spool time. the car made the same power just at different points of the powerband. a cool idea i might look into more!
                          1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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                          • #14
                            It's not that I didn't like the lag, I just have been in many single turbo cars overseas with the same spool time. Collector interesting idea!

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