help with external fuel pump

[gtrjon]

Hey guys. so i am installing my fuel system which is comprised of a swirl pot, a aeromotive a1000 fuel pump, aeromotive inline filter, and all ss braided lines with earls fittings, aeromotive a1000 fpr, tomei rail, and precision 1000cc injectors. so when i went to work on it yesterday i ran into a few problems. im trying to decide where to draw my power for the aeromotive pump, i need constant 12v in the trunk somewhere.... i also want to run my fuel lines under the car but i am unsure where to feed the fuel lines from the trunk to under the chasis. any ideas or pointers?

[hozer]

Draw power straight from the battery, fuel lines run with the existing lines

[gtrjon]

i can draw power straight from the battery but thats alot of wire. just seems a bit unnecessary. as far as running the lines along the existing fuel lines the braided lines are too big to fit under where the fuel hat is to run along the existing lines.

[hozer]

It is a lot of wire but it really is the best way to do it. I'm sure there are other options, but I can't say I'd recommend anything but straight to the battery.

[collector240sx]

I second, strait from the batterie.

It's quite simple, I already rewired the fuel pump on a 240sx hatch, because of contaminated wires.
Took me about 30 min, taking my sweet time. Used a spare relay (always good to have), some
wire from a roll of 12 gauges wires I had around, 2 wire to wire connectors, 2 round connectors with
hole in the middle for ground and power, and four female connectors for the relay. Even installed the
relay in the fuses box in a empty space.

Might be a good time to relocate the battery to the trunk.

[gtrjon]

alright ill run straight to the battery. is a relay really mandatory lol sorry im not an electric guy. also any ideas on where to run the fuel lines?

[Bruizer]

i can draw power straight from the battery but thats alot of wire. just seems a bit unnecessary. as far as running the lines along the existing fuel lines the braided lines are too big to fit under where the fuel hat is to run along the existing lines.

The 12 or 10 gauge wire you'd need will weight what, a pound? That's not so much wire really. As for a bit unnecessary, we both have mods that most would say the same about It's not so bad bro haha

As for the fuel lines, they'll fit under there. I have 2 -10s and 2 -8s under there, just a bit tight but you don't have a choice...

[gtrjon]

alright ill take another look at it tom! ill make em fit if i have to lol. any idea on what size relay i should run with some 12 gauge wire? i plan on installing a switch after the relay as well just for a added saftey precaution

[gtrjon]

wait why would you have 4 lines running under there?

[M13]

use the holders for the HICAS lines (assuming u don't have em now)

duhhh

[gtrjon]

k sorry if i sound like a newb but im a little lost. so if i run power and ground straight to the battery for the pump the pump will always be pumping even if the car is off correct? if i install a switch it could work but seems like room for error if i forget to turn the switch on or off.....

[collector240sx]

If you use a relay you get direct currant from the battery when it's activated. To activate the
relay you just need power from your acc. or anything really that's turned on when you turn
your key to accessory, but still has to have power all the time when turned on. It take almost
no power to activate the relay, so you don't have to worry about blowing fuse from the draw.

If you do want to put a switch put it on the activator wires, not the direct currant, since that
much currant is really hard on most switch, and unnecessary.

If the switch is off and you try to start the car, there will simply be no gas going to the engine,
and it won't start. Nice if you want to prime something, but are you really going to use it.
If you do use it make sure that it CAN'T be switched off easily, the last thing you want is to
kill your fuel pump in the middle of a pull.

[hozer]

Average size fuse for a single pump is 25amp, I run a 50 for both of my pumps

[jrhdohc]

http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/11101.pdf

found it on their website... shows diagram and recommends 10awg wire & 30amp breaker.

i would use 8awg, 30amp fuse (w/ spare in glove box) or breaker and good high quality 30amp relay (i like bosch) to be safe.

on one of my old gtr's i used, 20amp fuse, 25amp relays and 10awg wire for each -044 bosch fuel pump.
only took about 2 months for one of the relay to melt.
replaced the relays with bosch 30amp and monitored the system. After about 30 minutes of driving the wires and relay were hot to the touch. ended up replacing all the wires with larger gauge. solved the heat problem. oh yeah also double checked the fuses to make sure they're quick blow and not the slow blow type.
it's a pain in the butt to break down for such a simple thing. or worse... set your car on fire.

oh yeah if the battery was in the truck, I think 10awg would have been ok for each of my -044. but longer runs require bigger gauge.

plus your 1000hp pump is going to make a crap load of heat. larger gauge wire will act like a good heat sink. if mounted in the trunk a cool looking aluminum mounting plate will at as a heat sink. or mount it under the car with a shield so it can get some air.

[gtrjon]

one of the better answers ive seen on gtrc! i havent seen many posts from you but keep up the good work! ill be grabbing 8 gauge wire a 30am fuse and a bosch 30 amp relay tom and going at it! ill post up pics when its done! how do you guys feel about throwing a switch in the circut?