Next step on my rb26 build - Opinions greatly appreciated

[dylanc]

Hey guys, I'm new to posting on the forum but been around the local skyline community for awhile now. I've been parting together my bnr32 for the past year trying to max the potential of my humble setup before having to upgrade the stock turbos or building the bottom end. I've looked through the forums and the "rb26 modification guides" but would love what you guys had to say! Any part suggestions would be awesome since I'm sort of coming to a dead end. I'll be upgrading the stock ceramics come summertime to either hks 2530's or hks gt-ss turbos. Here's my list:


Engine:
HKS SQV Blow off valves
Walbro 255 lp/h fuel pump kit
Tomei Cam gears Intake and Exhaust
HKS intake suction pods and filters
Trust style full turbo intake hardpiping
ARC 76mm intercooler
53mm all aluminum racing radiator
Silicone heater hoses
HKS Intercooler Hardpiping kit
RSR Downpipe
RSR Test Pipe
Kakimoto 3.5” Catback Exhaust
5ZIGEN Baffled Oil Catch Tank
N1 Oil Pump
N1 Water Pump
Machined crank for new collar
HICAS Deleted
Air Conditioning Deleted

Electrical:
Blitz Spec R boost controller
Apexi PowerFC Standalone
AEM Wideband Gauge
Swoosh Oil Pressure Gauge
Swoosh Oil Temp Gauge
Swoosh Water Temp Gauge
Rebuilt Alternator
Deka/Braille 7lb race battery
SPLITFIRE Coilpacks

Suspension:
Ohlins Fully adjustable coilovers
Powertrix Front adjustable camber arms
SPL Rear adjustable camber arms
Nismo Lower control arms
Nismo rear traction rods
Nismo front and rear strut bars
Stripped interior

Footwork:
Volk RE30’s - 17x10” +13 offset Front and Rear
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs – 265/40/17 Front and Rear
Hawk Blue track pads front and rear



*******Future Modifications for Spring/Summer 2012:
Tomei Poncams Type B
Tomei Oil Baffle Plates
Grex Oil Cooler/Relocation kit
Deatschwerks 750cc injectors – $549.00
Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator - $129.99
Garret 2860-5 disco potato turbochargers - $1990.00
JIC Front Tension Rods - $220.00
Cusco front strut bar – 26mm hollow construction – $252.98
Cusco rear strut bar – 30mm hollow construction - $252.98
Delete Power Steering/Full manual rack conversion

Once again any part suggestions or directional help would be appreciated. I've relied on just searching and lurking through forums to accumulate knowledge on parts before this but want to make sure I'm not missing anything!

[GTR-guy]

I see an upgraded clutch is missing in your mod/upcoming mod list! That and a cat upgrade such as a sard or HKS.
You have an old car so stuff like bushings could use a replacement, gaskets and vac lines.
Brakes are nice to upgrade too if you can afford it!
Also I don't see the point of swapping your Nismo strut tower bars for cusco ones. That's a waste of money if I'm honest!
That's what I think, I hope this helps!

[hozer]

Oil cooler and oil baffles would be my first purchase. I like to get all the supporting mods done first, then add the power mods.

Also, I'm curious as to why you'd remove power steering?

[dylanc]

Thanks for the opinions guys. GTR-Guy, when I made that post last night I must've been out of it lol, I meant cusco swaybars, not strut bars. D'oh! Also I have a straight through RSR test pipe so I wouldn't want to go back to a high flow cat upgrade too rich for my blood!

I totally forgot about clutch and flywheel! I was thinking of going for the OS Giken twin plate with lightened flywheel. Thanks for pointing that out.

I'll be upgrading the fronts to 6 pot wilwood's when I get the funds!

[dylanc]

Hozer, the baffle kit and cooler is definitely on my to do list for the spring. With the colder winter temps last year I never reached above 95*Celsius when pushing it. Summertime sucked though and it would love to creep above 100 even though that's still not too bad considering the efficiency range of my oil is from 90-120 degrees. On the track the temps will easily be in the 120's though so when it gets hotter I'll definitely upgrade!

Yea a few people asked me why I would want to delete powersteering. I recently got a chance to drive a good friend of mine 's car (m13 on here) and I fell in love with his manual rack conversion. When done proper , and not just the retarded looped lines way, it honestly feels like a go kart! Super direct and responsive and hardly any steering effort when at a standstill. Also I'm big on weight reduction and currently trying to lose another 80 pounds to get my 89 bnr32 under 2800 pounds. The car will be tracked regularly coming next season as well so the less accessories I have runnin on the car the better! I've been holding off track sessions until I'm done with it because I keep hearing horror stories on how unreliable the rb26 is haha

[hozer]

If you're tracking it, I would also recommend a different oil pump. The N1 (excuse the pun) doesn't have the best track record and in my personal opinion, is the weak link in the build.

Now I know the N1 is decent pump and that some will swear by it, but if bullet-proof track car is what you want, I'd swap it.

Also now knowing you wanna track car, I'd highly highly recommend some R-Compound rubber and upgraded brakes. These will undoubtedly give you the most improved times (if that's your goal).

Some new diffs would help you out too, one of my personal fav's

I've gone through building a track car so if you have any questions, PM me

[GTRSOAR]

Since you have the N1 pump already, instead of swapping it out, just upgrade the gears (The only weak part of the pump) and throw in the Reimax gears. Thats what im doing. My buddy who owns a shop flat out refused to sell me hid N1 pump because they all swear theyre grenades lol

[NismoS-tune]

Buy my forged bottom end (cheaper than doing it to your engine) and you'll be able to get any power those turbos will push, reliably