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  • Tomei Poncam Type-B Question...?

    Hey there, Im looking to upgrade a few parts.

    I just bought new intakes and im also looking at getting the Poncam Type-B cams and Adjustment Pullys.

    But im just wondering if its something i should do this earlier in my build.

    The only things im going to be upgrading this year are the intakes, cat back exhaust and thats basically it. Also looking at getting the Apexi Power FC ECU once i get everything installed.

    Is this an alright approach or is their a different order I should be doing my build?

    Also once i install these parts:

    -Apexi Intakes
    -Type-B Cams
    -Adjustment Pullys

    Am i going to be alright to drive with my stock ECU or am i going to need to get the Power FC ECU and have it tuned accordingly?
    Not planning on getting the exhaust just yet.
    1991 Nissan Skyline GTR - Build in progress.

  • #2
    tybe b's are "plug n play" so no other supporting mods are required.
    stock ecu will be fine.

    unless you are planning on cam timing tuning i would hold off on the adj gears until you are ready to tune them. Takes a while to tune cam gears properly, and if your having a shop do it, it will cost a bit.

    good luck.

    Comment


    • #3
      if ur turbos r stock ur better off going with type a , b's r better for r33 n1 + they will help ur r32 turbos spool faster but youll loose a bit of power on the top end (imo)
      Ryan
      90 ca powered sil80 (sold )
      90 r32 gtr (toy)

      Comment


      • #4
        Never lame out on the cams, type A is a total waste of time. If you are going through the trouble of changing the cams type B is the minimum I would do. If you are worried about driveability, thats what the cam gears are for. I have the old HKS version of the type Bs and no cam gears and they idle and putt putt around just fine.


        Jon.
        Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

        1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

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        • #5
          If you're running stock turbos I would wait for the cams. On a turbo engine it only helps to spool up faster. I think you could concentrate your $$$ elsewhere.
          03 lancer dead
          68 gmc w/355 cid rice killer
          05 chevy silverado L33
          2010 crv Wife's ride
          1987 Harley Softail custom

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          • #6
            You won't see any gains with the Type Bs on stock turbos and stock ECU. I'd upgrade something else first.
            RightDrive Inc. Parts Manager
            http://www.rightdrive.ca :: http://www.rightdriveparts.com :: http://www.rightdriveusa.com
            1970 Highway 7 West, Vaughan, ON :: 1-877-398-8220



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            • #7
              Alright thanks folks, Gunna have to rethink a little and try a new approach. My only concern about upgrading my Turbos is that im going to have to upgrade a list of things at the time i upgrade them... Fuel Injectors, Fuel pump, Metal Gaskets etc. It seems like its going to be off the road for quite some time and be very expensive.. Im looking at just changing a few minor things to get small horsepower gains and was just thinking changing the Cams and what not was an alright approach.

              Any ideas of where to start for small horsepower gains at a not so hefty price?
              1991 Nissan Skyline GTR - Build in progress.

              Comment


              • #8
                Intake / exhaust / boost controller or 1 bar loop.

                Thats all you need for 320-340 whp.

                After that, install fuel system, oem rail are good up to 550 whp, fuel pump to be changed for higher L/H. Usually injectors at 80% duty are good for 1cc = 1whp.

                After that, it all depends on you power goal. For the usual "I pwn 98% of the cars on the street" go for twin N1/HKS2530/Tomei arms. You can keep the original manifold, but has to be ported for maximum use.

                Now go for tomei Type B. and there you go at 450-500 awhp. Lol. No head gasket needed.

                If you want to go big, always build safely, dont forget the oil pump and water pump.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'd recommend doing the intakes, outlet pipes, front pipe, cat and muffler, along with a boost controller. That will give you modest gains. Also I'd have your stock ECU reflashed to have it work well with Canadian gasoline, and protect it from damage.
                  You should be able to achieve 320-350hp with a set up like this.
                  RightDrive Inc. Parts Manager
                  http://www.rightdrive.ca :: http://www.rightdriveparts.com :: http://www.rightdriveusa.com
                  1970 Highway 7 West, Vaughan, ON :: 1-877-398-8220



                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Divided outlet (twin turbo pipe) is also recommend.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      if possible. intakes, maybe ported or a/m manis. ported ext pipes. turbos. nice downpipe, and free flow exhaust 3.5 - 4in. perhaps a good 276lph fuel pump, coil packs perhaps. and a good socket tune from radek at rs tuning haha.

                      Trevor.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TrevoR32
                        and a good socket tune from radek at rs tuning haha.

                        Trevor.
                        Enuf said. I totally agree.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Stock head can be darn responsive and see 500whp. Spend the cash on sexy parts rather than laggy/top end power parts! Head is fine, forget cams/gears. Get a good tune with sick boy work or interior.
                          Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
                          Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
                          Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
                          Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
                          Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
                          White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

                          Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

                          start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
                          lol

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Goodlucks7even View Post
                            Enuf said. I totally agree.
                            If only you can get a hold on him.. called 2 times and left 2 emails.. still 60 days waiting for a reply LOL
                            Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :

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                            • #15
                              If you want the best bang for the buck, biggest exhaust that you can stand to listen to (90mm), pull the pill in the vacuum line for the factory boost controller, if you can swing it, the Power FC, if not Nistune does a fine job for cheap and run the best fuel avail. in your area. Do the fuel pump too, Aeromotive has an in-tank pump rated to 320l/hr now and is dirt cheap ($200 if you shop around). Set base fuel presure at 50 psi (3.2 bar) and you will be good to at least 350whp. Dont worry, the factory ECU can compansate for the extra fuel pressure at idle and cruise.

                              Above all, the tune is god. Go to someone who isnt an idiot or a pansy-ass and you will be blown away just how much power a stockish GTR can really put out.


                              Jon.
                              Last edited by Dragon Humper; 02-18-2012, 02:24 AM.
                              Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

                              1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

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