Oil Drive problem Can i track my car???

[bellis_GTR]

I'm just saying, why go any further if your not making any more power after that? Unless the engine is tuned to keep producing more power after that, I just see it as causing stress. I will admit, I'm terrified of blowing the bottom as it sits since it's still stock. So until it's upgraded I'm fine with the 7k I limit my self too.

Yes, the usual causes of failure would be from over revving. Too fix this you need a 93 and up crankshaft, or you can go another route and have a wider collar put on the current crankshaft. There are other helpful ways to help your engine breath better and not blow from oil starvation that you should look up when you have time.

[gtrjerry73]

Agreed. read that link that was posted in this thread about the Oil pump drive issue. Knowledge is power and you can never know too much about your car. But yes. Don't over rev it, and just keep an eye on your oil temps. And don't worry as long as its maintained and your not beating the hell out of it you should be fine. And I still recommend the oil baffle. It's an easy install and is good insurance. The worst thing you can do is starve your engine of oil.

[evilgtr]

Great advice from everyone on here, this is why I love being on the GTRC forum. To be on the cautious side a shift light from Summit racing is around $120 for a good one,this will let you know when your getting close to the danger zone and you can focus more on the track the the tach. Also a quality ATI crank pully can be fitted in a hour and a half and your engine will love you for it.

Iv never done it but does the engine need to be pulled to install the oil baffle in the pan ?

[NismoS-tune]

Engine has to come out to do the oil pan work. Well, I guess someone COULD support the engine with a hoist and drop the subframe to get at it but that's stupid. I can pull and engine out in 6 hours (and 1 extra person to keep and eye on things when the engine comes out) so that's what I'd do.

Back to topic, Nothing is ever perfect so there's always a risk of something going wrong. If you're worried about the car, you shoulda bought something with Warranty. I've dumped rediculous money in my car and it broke again, no I don't believe it was my mistake, yes it's being redone :S. Just make sure you have a primary vehicle for when your secondary/sportscar breaks.

[Skym]

Stock bearings suffer when oiltemps are high (like mentioned above), so keep oiltemps under control (under 100 degrees C or if possible under 90 degrees C). Also use correct oil to match oiltemps, as too thick oil fails to get to bearings at higher rpm and same heat problem.

Nismo mention the heat problem (melts surface of bearings) and the solution (Nismo bearings) -

http://www.nismo.co.jp/products/competition/engine/rb26dett.html#metal

Read this -

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/10w-60-oil.pdf

Most use a w50 on racetrack. Factory is 7.5w30.

Lower rpm is better, as less stress on bottomend (less inertial load) and less chance of valves bouncing at higher rpm (old valve springs). Stay away from redline if possible with an old engine, especially if done over 100,000km.

A solution to oilpump drive problem (external oilpump) and doesn't involve removing engine (fits below alternator or where aircon pump used to be) -

http://blog.rossperformanceparts.com/category/oil-pumps/

Also a Accusump tank is another way to enlarge sump capacity and prevent oil starvation which is another cause of engine failure on racetrack or dragstrip. That's if you can't fit oilrestrictors, baffle plate to sump.