5000$ Build.

[93_jdm_fd]

That is very true, it's not from from $5000 to rebuild a blown motor due to the oil drive issue. Once you get a good tune up, turbo's, injectors and a good tune you thing, hey I can step on the gas a little harder and that's when the crankshaft lets you down and number 6 bearing spins around with no oil pressure. I'm pretty sure it's happened to all these engines from 89-91 if not yet it's a time bomb waiting to happen.

[clone]

this is my favorite tuning guide:
http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTR.htm

also I would calc how fast you want to go first

http://www.060calculator.com/

your weight:1430kg
I suggest 0-60 in under 4sec is quick, or pick a car you want to beet ex: 911 Carrera 4.6 sec

I figure you want 370hp = 272.13 kilowatts

[Phastwon]

I think a lot of good suggestions have been made. Be careful checking out hte motor before spending money on parts though. It may turn out you need a lot of those funds just for maintenance. My motor ran perfect iwth good compression and no oil burning. I spent $8,000 on turbo's, cams, headwork and fuel system. When the motor was apart it turned out the twin plate was spent, the crank was done, bearings were done, and the oil pump had a crack through the gear. My $8,000 project turned into a $16,000 project within 1 day. That said my list would be:

-Turbo back exhaust
- Stock ECU tune
- Oil Cooler
- Radiator
- GT SS's

[Terrh]

If I was going to spend $5k on a GTR to improve it and it was stock like yours (you said intakes and a boost controller) here's what I'd do.

1st: Check the condition of the engine. If it smokes, has low oil pressure, low compression, etc deal with that first. When was the timing belt last done? Etc. If it had a top end issue I'd get the head ported (I know a guy locally if you are interested) because stock the GTR head has a TON of room for improvement and if the head's off anyways it's an easy, cheap performance increase that improves the motor in every way possible.
If the head was off anyways at that point I'd put in a metal head gasket and ARP headstuds too - more cheap insurance.

Same goes with the rest of your driveline... 500HP is no fun if your clutch can't handle it, or your suspension is all worn out, or you have shitty tires. Unfortuantely depending on the condition of your car just getting everything up to par could eat a big part out of your budget but it's necessary. Clutches for GTR's get expensive fast.

For your $5k budget and assuming your car is up to snuff otherwise, has a good clutch, etc:


Once you know what you are working with and are sure it's good to go, the 1st thing I'd do would be a full exhaust. 2.5" equal length Y pipe (3" is better but very hard to find) into a 3" catback. Cat or not is up to you - if you can safely lose it where you live get rid of it.

Since you mentioned a $5k budget that's within the range of a budget turbo upgrade - but just. If you decide to go this route get the stock turbo manifolds and dumps ported, the stock manifolds are especially awful.

The Garret 2871's or whatever are a solid upgrade and reasonably cheap. People that think they are laggy don't know what lag is.
There are many other cheap twin upgrades too but none of them bolt on which makes it a wash in the long run. You can reuse all your stock hardlines with this setup which will save you hundreds of $$$$ on AN line and fittings.

The stock oil cooler is fine if you aren't tracking the car regularly, and may be fine even if you do depending on how hard you drive and how long you stay out for.

The stock rad isn't - upgrades are cheap ($200) - and if you aren't tracking the car don't even bother.

The stock intercooler is fine, don't mess with it.

The stock turbo Y-pipe is ****, mod it yourself or buy an already modded one ($200 or less)

Now you need an EMS. 3 major options IMO depending on how much you want to spend or how much DIY you want to do.

AEM SII is great, S1 less great but workable, apexi Power FC (get the one that lets you eliminate the mafs), or a megasquirt (cheapest, arguably on par with the AEM but by far the most work)

You'll need big injectors too - 550CC+, if you're buying used, get 680's or 720s if you are buying new ones since they're all the same price anyways. Rule of thumb on 6cyl turbo horsepower is 1cc per horsepower.


Stock fuel pump is fine to 450HP, beyond that there's plenty of upgrades again depends how much or little you want to spend.

The stock fuel lines are also good to 450hp and aren't beyond that. Stock fuel rail too. It can be modded or ebay ones are cheap. Don't buy the purple one, it has -6 fittings which aren't big enough either. The blue ebay ones have -8 fittings from what I have been told which is plenty big for 600hp.

Cheapest option for a pump is probably the walbro 400LPH. So many different ideas on what to do here though. Dual stock pumps and run a new return line, get a big external (Aeromotive A1000) etc.

Meth injection is a great bandaid for pump gas and not enough fuel pump, but keep in mind that it is a bandaid and the only "proper" solution would be to have enough fuel with enough octane to make the motor happy.


You can spend as little as $300 on your whole fuel system or as much as $3000. Up to you.

Anyways with fuel, EMS, more air and etc taken care of you've got yourself a car that should make 500+whp reliably.

[Super_Dude]

The Garret 2871's or whatever are a solid upgrade and reasonably cheap. People that think they are laggy don't know what lag is.
There are many other cheap twin upgrades too but none of them bolt on which makes it a wash in the long run. You can reuse all your stock hardlines with this setup which will save you hundreds of $$$$ on AN line and fittings.

2871's are the -10's. They are very laggy and your crazy to think they arent. Full boost is 5500rpm. I think you meant to say 2860 -5's arent that laggy. which I would agree with. They are very nice turbos for 500-600 whp. anything below that and it's a waste.

I wouldnt't bother with an AEM s1. unless you want a car that is hard to start, barely idles and misfires. If your getting a power FC get a maf based one. The map based one doesn't have any TPS correction and relies only on the map sensor. This is hard to deal with when you have ITB's.

Megasquirt is an awesome budget ECU but a lot of work. If your ready for some wiring check it out.

[xcye]

I wouldnt't bother with an AEM s1. unless you want a car that is hard to start, barely idles and misfires. If your getting a power FC get a maf based one. The map based one doesn't have any TPS correction and relies only on the map sensor. This is hard to deal with when you have ITB's.

I ran AEM s1 on my car, tuned by myself. The car starts quick, idles good, and does not misfire. It puts down close 500whp with Le Man Spec turbos at 22psi, maxing out 600cc injectors at 8000rpm.

In my experience, AEM S1 is a difficult ECU to tune but very capable(at least in its price range).

The tuned is done based on TPS with MAP correction instead of MAP based.

[Terrh]

2871's are the -10's. They are very laggy and your crazy to think they arent. Full boost is 5500rpm. I think you meant to say 2860 -5's arent that laggy. which I would agree with. They are very nice turbos for 500-600 whp. anything below that and it's a waste.

I wouldnt't bother with an AEM s1. unless you want a car that is hard to start, barely idles and misfires. If your getting a power FC get a maf based one. The map based one doesn't have any TPS correction and relies only on the map sensor. This is hard to deal with when you have ITB's.

Megasquirt is an awesome budget ECU but a lot of work. If your ready for some wiring check it out.

Lag is all perception. Sure full boost is at higher RPM than stock but it's more like 3500rpm than 5500. And remember, full boost is much higher than stock too.


That said it was a typo and I meant 2860's. 2871's are wayyyy overkill for 500hp.

[NismoS-tune]

Lag is all perception. Sure full boost is at higher RPM than stock but it's more like 3500rpm than 5500. And remember, full boost is much higher than stock too.


That said it was a typo and I meant 2860's. 2871's are wayyyy overkill for 500hp.

Don't think he's building a 500hp car with $5K lol N1s are fine and cheap.

[Dragon Humper]

If your getting a power FC get a maf based one. The map based one doesn't have any TPS correction and relies only on the map sensor. This is hard to deal with when you have ITB's

Huh? Where on earth did you get that from. MAP is rock solid when you do it right. My MAPs are mounted directly to the common manifold between 1and2 and 5and6. Ignore this statement he is gleening info from boneheads who don't know how the setup is supposed to go.

Don't think he's building a 500hp car with $5K lol N1s are fine and cheap.

http://www.streetfire.net/video/mark-berrys-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-ignition-dvd_208038.htm

Mild build, stupid power, ran 137mph in the quarter. N1 turbos.



Jon.

[93_jdm_fd]

Just watched that video, crazy car but really most of the engine build parts are what people are using without spending thousands on stuff you don't even need. N1 turbos, fuel rail, 800cc injectors, aftermarket ecu and a tune is pretty much what they were using to get that power. The GTR stock is a pretty wild car, just boosting the crap out of stock turbos, early crankshaft is what kills the cars and makes alot of part out threads.

[Terrh]

if N1 turbos are cheaper than the 2860's than by all means use them they'll work fine.

500HP is easy on $5k if you're starting with a good car and the rest of the driveline is set up to handle it. Turbos + Fuel + something to manage that fuel (even an S-AFC would work) and you're done.

Hell, I trapped 127 in the quarter (Gotta be getting up there in HP) on stock turbos with spraying 3rd and 4th.

[NickVantol]

That is very true, it's not from from $5000 to rebuild a blown motor due to the oil drive issue. Once you get a good tune up, turbo's, injectors and a good tune you thing, hey I can step on the gas a little harder and that's when the crankshaft lets you down and number 6 bearing spins around with no oil pressure. I'm pretty sure it's happened to all these engines from 89-91 if not yet it's a time bomb waiting to happen.

is there a way to fix the oil drive issue :s?


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[93_jdm_fd]

There is a fix but it involves, pulling the crank shaft out, replacing with a later r32,r33 or a r34 crank shaft with the longer oil drive or but a collar and have your crank shaft machined to have the collar pressed on. If your car is either a 89-91(I'm pretty sure this is the early crank skaft) you will have this problem. Most people say they've never had a problem and don't worry about it "my car drives fine" but when you start driving the car the way it was built to drive it will let you done.

[Terrh]

Yeah it is but since it's not easily fixable the best option is to get a good oil pressure gauge and keep an eye on it.

Only way to fix the drive issue was stated above. Replace the crank or get a collar. Either one basically requires rebuilding the bottom end of the engine.

And if you just don't replace it one of two things will happen: A: it won't blow up and you didn't spend a penny, or b: it does blow up but you aren't any worse off than if you had done it right away since you've gotta change the crank and rebuild the motor either way.

If you get a real (proper) oil pressure gauge and keep an eye on it, the drive is a non issue until there isn't oil pressure, and then it's time to pull the motor. Yes, it's more likely to blow up from lack of oil but plenty of people have made tons of power on completely stock oiling systems and early cranks and not had problems. Don't fix what isn't broken, just keep an eye on it. I think I've heard of too many people spending thousands of $$$ on rebuilding engines that don't need them when they could be enjoying their cars instead.

[93_jdm_fd]

Oh yeah fure sure, get a good gauge and make sure it's reading properly. That's right, if it's not broke don't fix it! I bought two rb26 engines now and one was a good one and one was blown. The good one just for fun a removed the oil pan and oil pump and found the pump gear cracked. The blown engine, it was cracked and the drive on the crank rounded off.