Just so you guys know how I myself bleed the system ill say it now. I jack the front of the car way up almost into outer spaced. Heater on full blast car running. I put a funnel in the rad and fill it above the rad. Then once at temperature ill rev the engine and watch untill bubbles come out. Hit the bleeder then repeat untill I see no bubbles.
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Most ruthless issue EVER! Coolant...
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Either way the system will bleed itself through regular use since any excess air will be going back into the overflow bottle.
But yeah that's pretty much how I bleed to. Rev and watch the bubbles go.R32 GTR FULL SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD:
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/36-holy-bible-6.html#post467565
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Mattias that is not how to bleed your system.
There is a small screw on the left by the injector rail that you remove when the engine is cold , start the engine with the rad cap off , allow the engine to warm up and you will hear air hiss out of the bleeder . Followed by bubbles and finally liquid. At this stage screw the screw back in and keep topping up the rad until the the thermostat has fully opened and the water starts circulating through the top tank in the rad , put the rad cap on.
Failiure to do this after coolant change will cause air pockets in the head that you wont get rid of , this causes localised hot spots in the head causing warpage and a blown headgasket.
The movement of water you hear through the coolant lines is normal , when running the oil is the main coolant of the turbos . when stopped , the water lines are setup to naturally flow through the turbos using hydrothermal pressure. This stops the oil baking in your turbos once the oil flow has stopped . My car does it , it's perfectly fine.
hope that helps.
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I use that screw as well. Its straight water when I open it cold. Maybe if it never cures I'll just drive to turkey point.Last edited by MattiasJacobs; 05-02-2012, 10:32 PM.Dang! You got shocks, pegs... Lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps?
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