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  • 3 year startup

    Ok, so I won't go into specific details as too why, but I have a gtr that hasn't been running since 2009. Half a tank of gas is still in, but no coolant or oil has been in the car since that time. So, I'm just wondering what precations I should be taking when I start her back up next month?

  • #2
    Personally I would drain all that old fuel, blow out the lines, change the fuel filter and clean the throttle body. Next I would remove the plugs and rotate the engine by hand maybe with a couple drops of oil in each cylinder just to make sure it's not seized. Lastly check all hoses as they may have dried up.

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    • #3
      old gas = bad, get some stabilizer and fill the other half of the tank with fresh gas if you can.
      no oil/coolant could have potentially created some corrosion/allowed air to seep in over time.
      replace any other fluids and check for leaks...
      fuel lines possibly...
      etc etc
      maybe a small amount of starting fluid into the throttle when you first start it
      also after you put the oil in, try maybe cranking it without spark first, just to make sure everything is lubricated. then give your starter a break for 2 minutes lol

      theres probably more im forgetting

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      • #4
        Deal with the fuel system last, as how you do that will depend on how other things go:

        Change the battery if you haven't yet. Add coolant, check for leaks (should be fine).

        Pull the plugs (they're probably rusty or fouled) Put a bit of ATF or oil down each cylinder (1/2 teaspoon tops. Less is more) WD40 or similar works too, just a quick shot.

        Clean or replace the spark plugs.

        Turn the key - if you have power and everything seems OK try and start it. If it tries to start but won't catch, try and deal with the fuel system.

        If it does start - drive it gently until that fuel is out of it OR top it up with some fresh 91/93 and drive it gently until all of that is out too.

        If it doesn't start - turn the key to ON and see if you can hear the fuel pump running. If not - Pull the pump and find out why.

        If you can - Try topping it up with some fresh fuel and try to fire it up again.
        1992 GTR - 2.7L, GT2871R's, forged bottom end, big valves, 270* cams, R34 getrag
        2000 Honda Insight - 70+mpg daily driver
        2003 Sierra 2500HD Diesel - Tow vehicle

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        • #5
          I would also flush the engine with at least some water too, may have some rust in your water jackets

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          • #6
            Ok, thanks. All good advice, but there is one specific issue I'm worried about. Just wondering if synthetic oil should be used for this startup, or are there seals that would have dried up over the past three years?

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            • #7
              seals don't dry up in modern engines (like since 1980) so that's not really a concern.

              Regular oil will be fine. If you have a GM dealer I really like adding GM EOS to the oil as it has a lot of zinc and helps lube the cams.
              1992 GTR - 2.7L, GT2871R's, forged bottom end, big valves, 270* cams, R34 getrag
              2000 Honda Insight - 70+mpg daily driver
              2003 Sierra 2500HD Diesel - Tow vehicle

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              • #8
                your main bearings will not be happy at startup

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                • #9
                  This is old school but it will mean you will successfully get it running without inadvertantly damaging anything.

                  Fully charge the battery

                  fill with new but cheap thin mineral oil (10/30), make 1 quart of the oil dex 3 ATF fluid ( has a very high level of detergents in it , good for dissolving crap and sludge in the engine).

                  Pull the plugs

                  fog the bores with some wd40 and leave it over night , you want it to penetrate the rings and the bore surface.

                  fill the rad with WATER ONLY and remove the bleed plug on the left of the engine by the fuel rail. leave the rad cap off.

                  Remove the fuel pump fuse , spin the engine by hand to make sure it is not seized then spin on the starter until you see oil pressure, this helps avoid a dry start with the potential to spin a main or rod bearing.

                  throw plugs back in , install the fuse and start the engine.

                  let it run and idle up to temp and bleed the coolant system , top it up and reinstall the rad cap.

                  turn it off and inspect for leaks , you may have a leak around the waterpump , bad to let them dry out dont worry too much about it running straight water and letting it get up to temp pressure will soon reconstitue the seal .

                  take it for a gentle drive , no boost , up and down the rev range , if the bores have rusted this will effectively help the rings quickly rebed in the bore. If the gauges look good boost a little and finish the bedin process with some harder acceleration .

                  take it for another short trip then seafoam the engine ( 3rd in the gas tank , 3rd in the oil , 3rd in the intake) do it when everyone is at work as you will have clouds of white smoke pouring out of the exhaust)

                  drive it around again for 10-15 miles. once the smoke subsides then go home let it all cool drain the water and the oil. refil with your regular antifreeze mix and synth oil .. replace the old plugs with a nice new set.

                  drive it again let it warm up and recheck for coolant leaks , antifreeze mix is alot more searching than straight water.

                  fill tank with fresh gas and you should be good . I'd still go on a few longer trips and put some milage back on the car before i'd starting booting it around.

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                  • #10
                    That's a great write up by cortexx
                    95 R33 Gtr

                    RICE - Race Inspired Cosmetic Enhancement

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                    • #11
                      Half a tank of gas in it from 3 years ago? lol.. its probably deteriorated and gummed up your lines.
                      Double track drift, yo.
                      http://www.meh.ro/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/meh.ro5228.gif

                      (oo sκylιnε oo)

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                      • #12
                        Xeno to some extent you are right however I have aquired a 79 blazer a few years ago that i built into a an offroad monster that had stood for 8 years with about 4 gallons of gas in it and it started after a few tries with a new battery , i then drove it home 40 klm with no problems ... it was carb based and carbs are more prone to shellac gumming up the jets etc than a fuel injection system .

                        If there are any gummed deposits in the lines or injectors they will get blasted out by the much higher fuel pressure , also the seafoam will absolutely clean out the fuel system in a very short time . That stuff makes more smoke than a tribe of apaches going to war but it does do the job and do it very well .

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