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  • Tune questions...please help

    So ive finished my engine build. Im not sure how much i should push my car to find a safe power number. My tuner says its completely up to me. However its kind of concerning to hear " we can just push it with boost till it doesnt accept it no more". Here are my mods on my car. can someone with experince or with similar mods give me some advice and where to stop.

    Rb26 Rebuilt
    CP Pistons
    Mauler Rods
    ACL Race bearings
    R33 Crank
    N1 Water Pump
    N1 Oil Pump
    Port and polished head
    270 cams
    Tomei Head Gasket
    Tomei Head Studs
    HKS Cam Gears
    Greddy Intake Manifold
    Yellow Jacket Coil packs
    GT2860-5 Twin Turbos
    880cc Injectors
    Bosch 400lph Fuel Pump
    Link G4 ECU with boost controller

    its getting tuned this friday im not sure what to expect. please help, thanks!

  • #2
    i know people with similar setups, you can aim for ~600whp @ 22psi and keep it reliable
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    • #3
      do you know what exactly they had by chance???

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      • #4
        Doesn't really matter what mods he has, every engine and tuner is different.
        Tuning is everything and don't short out on a good one. I see some people with more quality mods and building and they don't put out the power I do. I look at dyno sheets and see power curves that dont look that different.
        I owe it all to my tuner who is legit with performance cars and knows his ****.
        With your mods, 20psi is the safe zone and 550-600 HP is realistic
        R33 GTST RB25DET series 1
        Stock motor, holset HX40, power fc d-jetro, bolt ons, 20psi = 492rwhp 364 lbft

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        • #5
          who's your tuner r33_gtst?

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          • #6
            Tony @ dynamotorsports

            Here is a link to their page with all their dyno videos
            You can see the diversity in cars, tuning software and power
            R33 GTST RB25DET series 1
            Stock motor, holset HX40, power fc d-jetro, bolt ons, 20psi = 492rwhp 364 lbft

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            • #7
              Tuners tune to whatever you want. Some tuners push the limit's. Some know the limit's, so keep within them.

              With N1 oilpump, stock valve guides, stay within the stock rev limiters (stock soft rev limit is at 8000rpm, hard rev limit is at around 7750rpm). Also make sure N1 oilpump has the stronger Reimax gears.

              A race spec engine like that probably will last 3000 or so hard driven km between rebuilds. But it depends on how it's driven to how long engine, etc last's.

              560-600awhp is what those spec turbo's, etc produce when pushed to around 1.55-1.7bar (I think the max for those turbo's before run out of puff when using pump gas). 1bar = 14.5psi.

              Compression probably will be a limiting factor for reliability. Anything over 20psi continuously is asking for trouble with compression into 8's (might be able to get away with above 20psi on dyno). If compression is into I think was high 7's engine can take it. That's the compression the GTS-R (RB20DET-R) ran in Group-A with around 25psi (1.7bar) and lasted 3000km or so between rebuilds. That was said to be reliable.

              With A/F ratio, 11.5:1 max. Widebands can be out by 0.1:1 to 0.6:1, so is worth having a safety margin. Also if exhaust manifold leaks, etc, the safety margin helps to prevent engine from going too lean and blowing up.

              Make sure fuelpump is hardwired, as don't want engine to run out of fuel at higher rpm.
              Last edited by Skym; 05-29-2012, 01:50 PM.
              RESPONSE MONSTER

              The most epic signature ever "epic".

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              • #8
                Have you broke that motor in yet? I was advised that my motor should be broken in on low boost for a couple thousand k. So big numbers aren't doable off the bat. It sucks trust me. A fully built gtr that puts down stock power lol.
                Dang! You got shocks, pegs... Lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps?

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                • #9
                  Who's doing your tune? And where was your engine built? D&W built my engine, similar specs, and was tuned by Ryan at Vex. He talked to the guys at D&W to get see what they recommended for a break in, and he tuned it to low boost, did a bunch of dyno runs, then upped the boost to 18 psi max for a final tune. Tons of debate between soft break-in vs. hard break-in.

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                  • #10
                    When I bought my K6 gsxr 600 they told me to beat on the bike and redline every gear occasionally for the first 1,000k
                    My buddy who used to race on the AMA said the same
                    Another bike mechanic advised against it...
                    There is always gonna be different opinions. I'd like to see 2 RB motors opened up after 1k km's, one driven hard and one babied
                    R33 GTST RB25DET series 1
                    Stock motor, holset HX40, power fc d-jetro, bolt ons, 20psi = 492rwhp 364 lbft

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                    • #11
                      Mechanically, 600whp reliably. My experience with anything Bosch, includes the words "premature" and "failure". I don't know anything about your engine management so can't say if it will support 600whp. Finding someone who can tune it for 600hp reliable is another matter.....
                      1989 Skyline GTR

                      "Want to Race? Save it for the track!"
                      www.victoriamotorsports.ca

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