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  • Whining noise?

    Okay i have been "googling" like mad to find the reason my car has started whining lately.

    so far i think i have narrowed it down to a front prop shaft bearing? or front diff gears being worn out.

    Heres the symptoms:

    driving at about 60kmh when maintaining speed or accel it starts to whine out a bit, sounds similar to a low gear whine from a 4x4. Under DE-Accel the whine stops. No clunking, chatter, or other worrisome noises just whining.

    Im not 100% if its the front diff, tranny, or rear diff but there is definitely a whine coming from somewhere.

    So, any ideas? If it IS the gears/bearings are there any rebuild kits available that you know of?
    IF i do need to rebuild this diff or repair etc, can it be done in the car without removing the the oil pan?

    Replacement of the housing is not an option as ive got a deep trust sump pan that i dont want to hack off and re weld to a new pan, hense why i want to repair the internals.

    On a side note, i have not checked the fluid since filling it after my engine install a few months ago, and i filled it with some penzoil gear oil. I could swap to heavy shock proof but it might be too late.

  • #2
    also before i forget to mention,

    i just recently performed at a drag racing event, and an auto cross event. I was pretty hard on her at both.

    Hard launches and some drifting.

    Comment


    • #3
      you should have a upgraded set of diffs as it is brent. im in the process of grabing a set of osg super locks now with a dss aluminum 1 pc driveshaft to top it all off. that being said you will need to pull your motor to swap out the front diff
      1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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      • #4
        OSg+DSS= win but hey, play hard pay hard!

        There are cheaper options I cost is an issue. Stock driveshaft is fine for huge power, kaaz and Cusco are both fairly cheap diffs compared to OSg and can still handle 1000hp. OSg is great but there are some that are almost as good for less money (unless you have 1200hp lol).

        Kaaz is around 1/2 price of the OSg I think. I went with OSg cause I have more money than brains and look my car still doesn't run with A whopping 300hp and a HUGE budget!

        I vote kaaz or cusco front/rear if you have sPare cash
        Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
        Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
        Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
        Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
        Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
        White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

        Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

        start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
        lol

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        • #5
          damit lol. i dont want to buy new diffs just yet! Hopefully after i talk to some peeps i might get away with something a litter quicker and less cost. at least until winter comes when i can tear the b!tch down again.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
            OSg+DSS= win but hey, play hard pay hard!

            There are cheaper options I cost is an issue. Stock driveshaft is fine for huge power, kaaz and Cusco are both fairly cheap diffs compared to OSg and can still handle 1000hp. OSg is great but there are some that are almost as good for less money (unless you have 1200hp lol).

            Kaaz is around 1/2 price of the OSg I think. I went with OSg cause I have more money than brains and look my car still doesn't run with A whopping 300hp and a HUGE budget!

            I vote kaaz or cusco front/rear if you have sPare cash
            true true but all of your points could be valid for a majority of parts on both of our cars. you dont need them for the power but we have them regardless. and for the <$1000 for a dss shaft it can add up to 20whp and increased response. im running out of things to buy so why not. also the 1pc is nice vs oem 2pc. its a cheap quality upgrade. The kazz and cusco are good diffs for the money but they can be noisy and not as strong. i like to buy my parts once so if that means spending a few extra bucks for piece of mind then so be it. i dont want my diff clunking every where i go. so buy osg and run their fluid and have no problems. what is a few extra bucks into our money pits anyway? ill never get half back of what i have into my car anyway
            1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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            • #7
              Originally posted by nimblestix View Post
              damit lol. i dont want to buy new diffs just yet! Hopefully after i talk to some peeps i might get away with something a litter quicker and less cost. at least until winter comes when i can tear the b!tch down again.
              boost it break it build it stronger. atleast you identified a weak point in your build and now is your chance to upgrade it.
              1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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              • #8
                Originally posted by gtrjon View Post
                true true but all of your points could be valid for a majority of parts on both of our cars. you dont need them for the power but we have them regardless. and for the <$1000 for a dss shaft it can add up to 20whp and increased response. im running out of things to buy so why not. also the 1pc is nice vs oem 2pc. its a cheap quality upgrade. The kazz and cusco are good diffs for the money but they can be noisy and not as strong. i like to buy my parts once so if that means spending a few extra bucks for piece of mind then so be it. i dont want my diff clunking every where i go. so buy osg and run their fluid and have no problems. what is a few extra bucks into our money pits anyway? ill never get half back of what i have into my car anyway
                Sometimes i question the parts i buy and the amount of cash i spend on my car ....

                That paragraph just validated why i spend what i spend - thanks

                Conclusive proof I'm not the only person that does this .

                To the OP I would drain the fluids of both diffs and fill with redline heavy shockproof , is that quiets the noise then they will last you till winter. If that doesnt shut them up drain your tranny and fill that with redline heavyshock too , noise could be coming from the tranny bearings / gears .

                Comment


                • #9
                  Tranny has fresh heavy shock proof, so does the rear diff. The front diff Had fresh shockproof before I replaced the engine/diff. When I reinstalled I didn't have any shockproof so I had to use some Pennzoil gear oil I had laying around. I'm going to try some shock proof but I'm pretty sure she's pooched. This is a completely different diff than the one i had before and I'm not 100% sure of what condition it was in prior to install.

                  From what I've read I think the pinion and carrier bearing is the issue.

                  Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by nimblestix View Post
                    Tranny has fresh heavy shock proof, so does the rear diff.
                    Burning through your rear LSD clutch pack? RL shockproof isn't specifically formulated for clutch LSDs... googling it some ppl found some chattering and it stopped with the addition of LSD slip agents. Still, I personally wouldn't use it in the rear end, front end's ok though (no LSD).
                    1992 BNR32 SKYLINE GTR

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                    • #11
                      Actually I'm glad you brought that up , I did not actually use redline shockproof in the rear , i used royal purple MAxgear in the rear diff as it already contains the friction modifiers that the rear requires.

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                      • #12
                        why not put the car on a hoist, drive it at the speed and use slight breaking to simulate load. Have a guy underneath pinpoint the noise and/or use mechanics ears. We do it on a regular basis to help diagnose those tricky noises.
                        “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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                        • #13
                          Last time someone did that at our dealership they caught their hair in a driveshaft and ripped part of their scalp off , never seen such a small would bleed so much . Although it wasnt that serious it was pretty traumatic lol .

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by cortexx View Post
                            Last time someone did that at our dealership they caught their hair in a driveshaft and ripped part of their scalp off , never seen such a small would bleed so much . Although it wasnt that serious it was pretty traumatic lol .
                            Holly hell! Lol. I'm actually going to try this though. I've got a friend with a hoist so hopefully I can get a firm diagnosis by the end of this week.

                            I'm praying its as simple as throwing some thicker fluid in!

                            Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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                            • #15
                              Revival! Still haven't made it up on a hoist just yet.

                              I realized later that my rear is filled with the proper lsd gear lube.
                              I've swapped the front to redline Heavy shockproof with no improvement.

                              I've swapped the transfer case fluid with redline d4 atf
                              I've flushed the awd system and filled/bled with redline d4 atf
                              The tranny has clean newish Redline Heavy Shockproof, No grinds, clunks or bangs. Shifts smooth!

                              Still whining at around 60-80kmph under light acceleration. Im scared sh!tless to put it up on stands in my shop and run it at that speed.

                              Kinda hoping someone else has encountered a noisy diff before and could chime in.
                              Im not looking to change to a competition lsd front and rear. I dont have 3-4 k for that right now.

                              Im reading the manual, but i am still a little unsure how to measure everything in there. I believe im capable of doing the job but if anyone can help me with some advice on how to diagnose pinion and carrier bearing issues, or any diff issues for that matter it would be greatly appreciated!

                              Cheers guys!
                              Brent.

                              Maybe some vendors know what i could try?

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