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  • #1

    Someone Please Help (potential fuel system problem)

    Hey guys
    First post

    Not 100% sure but I think my fuel pump may be going
    I'll be cruising down the street and all of the sudden, I'll lose RPMs until my car slows to a stop and the engine cuts out

    Car turns over afterwards, but doesn't start
    If I let it sit for anywhere from 10 minutes and up, it starts, but the cycle repeats

    Wanna get advice before I get a tow to a shop or buy unnecessary parts

    Please help!!

    -Daylan
    Last edited by klemer13; 07-30-2012, 11:17 PM.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Up sounds like fuel pump but I'd check connections and hoses first.

    Pretty easier to whip in a fuel pressure gauge to see what's going on. Important gauge to have imo.
    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
    Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
    Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
    lol

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    • #3
      Originally posted by klemer13 View Post
      Car turns over afterwards, but doesn't start
      If I let it sit for anywhere from 10 minutes and up, it starts, but the cycle repeats
      Ignition module on top of back of engine does that when it heats up, the 10 minute+ gives it away. Swapping out ignition module with a known good ignition module should eliminate it as a cause.
      RESPONSE MONSTER

      The most epic signature ever "epic".

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Skym View Post
        Ignition module on top of back of engine does that when it heats up, the 10 minute+ gives it away. Swapping out ignition module with a known good ignition module should eliminate it as a cause.
        no ****! I didn't think of that. I have a spare somewhere....
        Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
        Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
        Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
        Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
        Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
        White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

        Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

        start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
        lol

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
          no ****! I didn't think of that. I have a spare somewhere....
          Hmmm didn't think of that either
          What are the chances you'd be willing to sell
          And if so how much?
          If its fairly inexpensive I wanna at least try it out before I replace the fuel pump

          Comment

          • #6
            Worst case scenario drop in a Walbro 255
            It's a good upgrade and they are only $100
            Order from a respected dealer, lots of fake fuel pumps out there
            R33 GTST RB25DET series 1
            Stock motor, holset HX40, power fc d-jetro, bolt ons, 20psi = 492rwhp 364 lbft

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            • #7
              Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
              no ****! I didn't think of that. I have a spare somewhere....
              I know of someone that had that ignition module problem with a R32GTS-T. Faulty ignition module made his engine stall after 10 minutes or so of driving and when waited 10 minutes or so (ignition module cooled down), he could restart engine. Then it repeated after driving for while (I think was another 10 minutes).

              But this is a commonly known problem with any ignition module (some testing you can do in link below, but don't use water on ignition module to cool it down) -

              What are the symptoms of defective ignition module? - Answers
              http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_are_the_symptoms_of_defective_ignition_module
              A bad ignition module is usually characterized by several frustrating symptoms. A classic example is when the engine will start, but when it gets hot, the ignition module's electrical properties change, cuasing the car to die suddenly, but restart after several minutes of cooling. Some people have reported pouring cold water on the ignition module causes it to start when hot (mearly by cooling rapidly). Another way to test for this is to allow the engine to run for a total of 30 minutes, then gently tap the module with the back of a screwdriver. If the car fails, this is usually the source. Sometimes the car will not start at all, but this should lead to checking the ignition coil first. This is usually characterized by no spark, no combustion, but good power (or weak power) into the ignition coil. This is usually checked first, as both are common problems, but the ignition coil is usually 1/3 the price (or less) of the (often very pricey) modules (especially for later models). Basically, check for spark, if you dont have any, keep going back until you have checked the ignition coil, distibutor, ignitor, module (in that order) and any grounds, resistors, capacitors, etc. Check all for power in, out, positive, negative, and power out. Use a test light, a voltmeter (multimeter) and get a book for your car from the auto parts store. Or take it to AutoZone- they can test modules using a computer for FREE.


              Also be careful when tapping ignition module to check if it's faulty, as can crack casing on ignition module (learnt that the hard way with big crack down middle).
              RESPONSE MONSTER

              The most epic signature ever "epic".

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