Engine sounds weird

[Fred-R]

Hey guys!

My RB26 has been completly rebuilt 2 years ago.

Here's my setup:

Garrett GT2860R-5
Wiseco 86,5mm pistons (balanced)
Eagle rods (balanced)
Machined R32 crankshaft (balanced)
Ported and OEM rebuilt cylinder head
Tomei camshafts type B (in & ex 260 deg, 9,15 lift)
OS Giken twin plate clutch
Cometic Head gasket
720cc Delphi injectors
Nismo oil pump
Vented coilpack cover
AEM adjustable FPR
N1 water pump
ACL main and rod bearings
ARP head stud
NGK sparkplugs
Denso 280 LPH fuel pump
Greddy suction kit
3’’ Blitz Nur Spec catback
3’’ Custom mid pipe
HKS Intercooler hard pipe kit
HKS big FMIC
Greddy Type R BOV recirc
Greddy oil pan extension
Tomei oil pan baffle
Laminova thick radiator
Laminova water to oil cooler
Laminova oil relocation kit
AEM Tru-boost controller
AEM UEGO Wideband
AEM Fuel pressure gauge
Blitz turbo timer
Nismo 1.5 way LSD

To hear it run:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEBBxzx2ppA&feature=youtu.be

Couple problems:
On the beginning of last spring, I added/changed some parts as my bov (still recirc), bigger rad, oil cooler and cams. I went to tune the car but after couple of pulls, the tuner told me my fuel pump was having issues getting the pressure high enough on boost. I swapped the walbro 255 (1year old) for a Denso 280 (brand new). When I took the car to my mechanic to install the nismo diff, I asked him to check the fuel pressure with his gauge and it still wasn't keepin up while boostin (36 at idle, toping to 49-50 @ 18psi). My mechanic says it should go higher than that!

So I changed the crappy ebay fpr for a bn AEM with pressure gauge. Since that, I installed the greddy suction kit. Went for a ride this morning and at about 10-12 psi, the car seems to ''burp'' a little and doesn't want to go faster, so I release the gas pedal not to hurt anything. Still the pressure doesn't pass the 50 mark... And there's a whistle sound while boosting that starts on early boost until I release it. I never heard that sound before. Can it be the bov that is adjusted too soft?

The main question is: Does the engine sound good? and there seem to be some kind of grinding and pressure sound when reving down, can it be surge?

Sorry for the long story but I'm kinda worried at this point...

I need your feedbacks!
Thanks!
Fred

[coston]

Sometimes a whistle sound under boost indicates there's a boost leak somewhere. Take a peek! There are a few good posts here on how to check for boost leaks if you need them too.

[Fred-R]

A boost leak test has been performed by a trusty mechanic before I installed the greddy suction kit. May be I haven't torqued the t-bolts collar enough. I will double check that! But my main concern is that sound that comes from the engine: is it knocking?

[fwd suck]

Pm'd .

[nickisonfire]

Take a look at the maf

[Fred-R]

What the mafs have to do with fuel pressure doesn't get higher? I will check em anyways.... Mafs cleaner+resolder

Any other idea would be gr8!

No knocking?

[gtrjon]

doesnt sound like a knock but more like a head issue. maybe a lifter out of wack? or a retainer?

[newalliance123]

Your fuel pressure is fine. You have a rising rate regulator, So for ever 1 psi of boost increase your fuel pressure will increase 1 psi.
Engine also sounds fine to me, what sound are you worried about? Head might be a little out but its probably from valve clearence issue.

[Fred-R]

Your fuel pressure is fine. You have a rising rate regulator, So for ever 1 psi of boost increase your fuel pressure will increase 1 psi.
Engine also sounds fine to me, what sound are you worried about? Head might be a little out but its probably from valve clearence issue.

Glad to hear theres nothing wrong with the engine. I thought it might knock a lil bit... For the head, like my setup list says: I have poncam B and they are 260/260 9.15 lift. No need for the head to have clearance/machining... When my mechanic installed the cams, he said there were no need for shimming: Does it happen often that when you swap cams (that are drop-in) you don't need shims? Can it be the problem?

John: What can cause a lifter or retainer to be faulty? The head has been fully OEM rebuilt 2 years ago and Ive done about 1500km since....

So what is that weird sound at the end when the engine is reving down? and why the car seems to have problem while boosting around 10psi (I can post another vid of that!)?...

Thanks for the answers yet!

[Skym]

From what I understand, you are meant to check clearances on lifters to camshaft after certain amount of km and change shims on solid lifters if necessary.

Did you hard wire the fuelpump to get full voltage from battery??? If not, fuelpump gets less voltage at higher rpm. If happening with both fuelpumps (both require higher voltage), that will be the cause. It's a common mistake, alot of people don't hardwire fuelpump and tuners have to do it for them.

Can buy a fuelpump hard wire kit -

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/accessories/fuel-pump-hardwire-installation-kit

Whistle sound can be a airleak after turbo's or compressor wheel on one of turbo's touching compressor housing. Tighten intake hose clamps and check for cracks on intake hose joiners and check for airleak between BOV's, flanges. If they are ok, then turbo problem.

DIY intake leak tester -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atretf9u-Mc

Can buy pro intake leak testing equipment -

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=8&osCsid=a3e812c31af7b88dacbc8703050232f4

[newalliance123]

Absolutely. "Drop in" Cams or not, the valve clearance should be checked to be within spec. It SUCKS BIG time if they are not as you have to measure, order the correct shim, pull the cam, re-install the cam, then re measure.

I'd check the valve clearance, pretty easy to do just need a feeler gauge and pull valve covers. I wrote down all of mine to compare at a later date if needed.

When you check them its easiest to use 2 feeler gauges with a small clearance and then add that number rather then trying to bend and jam a big feeler gauge under the cam lobes.

The Service manual has the whole rundown on how to do it.

And with your mods hard wiring your fuel pump is a highly recommended thing. Just be sure to get the proper gauge wiring. I'm running 8GA on mine back to 2 - 044 pumps. You will probably need 10-12 GA but check the charts for your amp requirement.

[Fred-R]

Yeah, thanks for the input on the hard wiring! But its been done right when the oem pump has been swapped! I will have to check the clearance...

[Fred-R]

I'm searching the net for that service manual but can't find any free copy. Any1 has a direct link or something?....

Thanks!

[Fred-R]

ok, i got something

[newalliance123]

Let us know what you find !