Timing Cover Removal.....ran into a snag - need help ASAP

[judasentinel]

I have been trying to replace the water pump on my car, and have run into a bit of a problem. I finally managed to remove the CAS, which was stuck in its place. I also removed the top timing cover, but the lower one is giving me problems. As far as I know, it is held in place by three bolts, all of which I have removed. It has loosened from its place, but I cannot seem to pull it out. Seems it is being held up by the crank pulley or something else down below. Any ideas?

Do I have to remove the crank pulley to remove the cover?

Secondly, in order to set the TDC before I remove the timing belt, the Holy Bible says to line up the crank pulley 0 degree mark with the mark on the lower belt cover. Mine has a few marks, and so it is hard to know which is to be used for the alignment. Any other idea as to how to do it? Should I try the old school 'insert something in cylinder 1 and rotate until it reaches the top' method?

How about checking the intake cam lobe sticking out towards the intake side? Does that even confirm TDC, since it might be in that position a few times during a cycle?

Can I adjust the TDC with the timing belt off, and then manually rotate the cam gears by hand to match the marks on the back cover? I think that's not possible, but maybe I am wrong.

Finally, if at all I must remove the crank pulley, can I do it without removing the AC system? That thing is too complicated to be taken out. There seems to be quite a lot of space now with the fan shroud and rad removed. Is it enough?

What size is the crank pulley bolt that I have to remove? The Bible says it is M6 X 1.0. Is that 32mm? Can it be removed by a single person by putting the car in gear and just applying force on the bolt? I dont have any extra set of helping hands to this job, so any help in guiding me is appreciated.

Thanks,

Munib

[NismoS-tune]

I heard the lower timing cover could be removed but I just took the damper off. 32mm-36mm haha can't remember... Used an impact though

[judasentinel]

Wish I had an impact gun

Do I need an air compressor or are there electrical/battery power impact guns also available?

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

Dude, put a breaker bar on your crank bolt socket, brace the bar with a 2x4 against the rad support on the passenger side, jump in and "bump" the motor. Your crank bolt will be loosened by the engine and easy to remove. Unplug the ignitor just in case. You don't want it to start.

I usually use two 12" pry bars to wiggle the crank pulley off, just make sure to brace them against the block and not the timing cover. A little elbow grease and patience it will come off.


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[judasentinel]

So I need to have the crank pulley off in order to remove the lower timing cover?

I am going to take a leap of faith and get an electric impact wrench with a 32mm socket. Should do the trick, shouldn't it? I will also get one of those Crappy Tire harmonic balancer pullers. Do you think it will work? Is there any pin that needs to be removed before pulling the crank pulley off?

I wish I didnt have to remove the pulley just to change my water pump......SIGH!!

Oh well, at least I will be able to write a nice DIY on it for others to follow and highlight the pitfalls...

[NismoS-tune]

I use a pneumatic one with a humongous tank so I never have issues but I hear good things about the cheap corded Canadian tire ones. I'm thinking about getting a cordless one for when I'm off road but meh.

[judasentinel]

The manual says the crank pulley bolt needs 340 ft-lbs of torque to tighten it. But the cheap Canadian Tire ones only go up to 220-240 ft-lbs. Do I really need that high a torque figure? Or can I just use my hands and a breaker bar to tighten it even more?

So can anyone confirm HOW to take the lower timing cover off without removing the crank pulley? Or can it not be done?

[markdett]

If your wanting to take the water pump off, the timing belt will have to come off, in order to do that correctly the crank pulley will have to be removed.

I usually use an impact bar to remove the crank pulley bolt, its best to use a harmonic balancer remover to take the pulley off (utilise the provisions for the 2x 10mm headed bolts to remove) as you can damage the rubber dampner in the pulley if not carefull.

Once that is off you can line the crank sprocket up with the notch in the oil pump, then your notch's should line up on the cam pulleys/rear timing cover.

Id be replacing the timing belt, tensioner and idler pulleys, and all seals while its all off. Also remember not to over tighten the timing belt when refitting (use the spring tension of the tensioner pulley).

Hope that helps.

[judasentinel]

I can't seem to keep the crank stationary when I try to open the bolt. How do I keep it from moving? Tried putting the car in 5th gear and parking break but it still rotates. Put it in 2nd and the whole car shook a bit. I am afraid I might damage the tranny. Any ideas? I am running out of time. Please help.

[gtrjerry73]

you shouldn't damage the tranny. I pulled on mine pretty good with no issue. but honestly the most effective way, get a breaker bar and hook it to the bolt with the breaker bar against the ground leaning to the passenger side. If your in front of the car, the bar should be angled down and to the right. if you have it the other way the bar will go up and you chance denting stuff. You may need to engage the starter a couple of times but it works. I just cranked the hell out of it with the breaker bar to tighten it(with someone on the brake pedal and in 4'th)

The proper way to do this is with a ... I believe it's called a worm or ring gear stopper. You take the starter off and fit it in place of the starter so the engine cannot move. And then just use an impact I didn't look into it as i used the above method, but it couldn't be expensive.

[judasentinel]

I got it off!!! Bumped the car just a bit and it came off loose. VICTORY!!

Anyone know what size bolts I need to use on the pulley puller? Length, pitch/thread?

Thanks,

[MarusGTR]

M6X1.0, 50mm.

This is what I used to torque it back in. Use Impact-grade sockets, I broke a standard chromium one on my first try.

[gtrjerry73]

That could not have been cheap... The only one I could find big enough was like 1200 and couldn't find any in rental shops

[MarusGTR]

I borrowed it from a tire shop that deals with heavy machinery, the only way you can get a hold of one in the region

[judasentinel]

M6 X 1.0, 50mm is what the manual also says. I will get a couple of them and washers to go with 'em.

There is a hole on the side of the water pump, through which I can see the inner workings (bearing) of the pump. Does that hole remain exposed? What is its function, if any? Do I need to plug it? Specifically, the hole is located on the right hand side of the extended part (neck) of the pump - the part that has the studs and wheel on it, when you are looking at it installed on the engine.

After I take the crank pulley off, do I have to set the TDC while my older belt is on, or can I set the TDC with the belt taken off? And what do I use to rotate the crank once the pulley is off?