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  • #16
    Sorry didn't mean to bash you by saying the tool who put "my" engine together forgot about them. I would definitely do a leak down test first. Saves you the money if your valves aren't toast.

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    • #17
      rolyaT, no offence taken, buddy. I completely understand what you meant. I am shooting myself down, hehe.....I did mess up.

      Doing a leakdown test requires some special tools, I assume. Will look into identifying what I need for it.

      In the mean time, maybe sourcing out a used head might be a good fallback option.
      (O||O___SKYLINE___O||O)

      Cheap, Reliable, Fast.....PICK TWO
      SERENITY NOW!!!!!!
      HEAVY METAL IS THE LAW........EVERYTHING ELSE IS JUST CRIME

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      • #18
        You're all over the map my man. Time to step back and breath. Stop assuming what happened (or shopping for parts). Just start doing your compression test, leak down or scope. The longer you wait to do factual testing, the crazier you're gonna get. Maybe it's time to talk with a shop. If you don't know how to do this stuff, It's never bad to admit you're lost or not good enough and that it's time to hire out some work...
        Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
        Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
        Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
        Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
        Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
        White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

        Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

        start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
        lol

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        • #19
          Originally posted by judasentinel View Post
          Doing a leakdown test requires some special tools, I assume. Will look into identifying what I need for it.
          Watch, learn (he makes his own leak tester, which I think is in another video) -


          Automotive Cylinder Leak Down TestDisclaimer:This video is not meant to be a definitive how to.Always consult a professional repair manual before starting yo...


          Exhaust valves are leaking (can hear it through exhaust).
          Last edited by Skym; 08-22-2012, 05:45 PM.
          RESPONSE MONSTER

          The most epic signature ever "epic".

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          • #20
            Nice video, Skym. I recognized the engine as soon as I started the video - my first car ever was a 1974 super beetle that I built from the ground up, engine, body and all.

            The leakdown tester seems like quite a bit of work. I will be more inclined to buy one, since it might be cheaper to do that. In addition, it might also help see the top of the head by removing the valve covers. Maybe we can identify what is sticking, and if it can be salvaged by just working from the top. Can we? Assuming no valves are bent, but only stuck open, can they be shut by doing something from the top and not removing the head?
            (O||O___SKYLINE___O||O)

            Cheap, Reliable, Fast.....PICK TWO
            SERENITY NOW!!!!!!
            HEAVY METAL IS THE LAW........EVERYTHING ELSE IS JUST CRIME

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            • #21
              They wouldn't just stick open for no reason, would have to be bent,

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              • #22
                honestly, you won't find much (most times) by lifting the cam cover off. GET A SCOPE AND LOOOOOK AT THE PISTON TOPS. If you find some marks then you know for sure the head is coming off. If you have a broken or bent valve, there is no faster way that scope...

                I'd have my engine on a stand and back in 5 times in the time you started this thread to now... 3 pages of assumptions and planning on something that has no solid facts. Get in there and trouble shoot. Forget the valve covers for now, pull the coilpacks, pull the plugs and take a look. Yeah a compression test may be easier or a leak down test (though you'd have to line it all up...) but if youre timing is out of wack and you turn that over, yeaouch it'll get worse. Leave it be and take a look! Doesn't hurt anything!
                Last edited by NismoS-tune; 08-22-2012, 10:30 PM.
                Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
                Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
                Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
                Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
                Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
                White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

                Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

                start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
                lol

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                • #23
                  I think he's just looking for a easier / cheaper option, which is understandable if have a lower budget to work with. Most of this equipment probably can be borrowed or maybe rented from someone?

                  Try ringing or emailing this place and see what they have -



                  Judasentinel, can't do anything from top of engine that I know of, except maybe remove manifolds and probably could pressure test the intake, exhaust ports and listen for leaks through sparkplug hole if don't want to start engine again.

                  As far as I know, just like compression test, engine has to be warm as well (pistons expanded and at TDC) to do a leak down test. That means running engine, which I think he doesn't want to do if damaged (could do more damage).
                  RESPONSE MONSTER

                  The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                  • #24
                    you ran the car without the crank pulley on?? isnt that what keeps the belt from sliding forward?...
                    - Adam

                    :
                    http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-project-cars/44846-project-nashzilla-r32-gt-t-neo.html

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                    • #25
                      No there is 2 washer like things that keep belt centered, one behind gear and one in front of gear.

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