Haltech or Vipec?

[Skym]

More hp at same boost level can come from advancing ignition timing more on higher octane gas. Doesn't mean it's a reliable tune, just they are willing to push closer to the limit before it knocks which could result in knock, engine failure if engine suddenly goes lean for any reason.

[Supraclean]

Id say pic your tuner first, shop around persay.

[cbileske]

Id say pic your tuner first, shop around persay.

This is what I'm going to do. I really don't care which one I use, as long and it gets tuned right they all seem to be in the same price range.

[cbileske]

Thanks, Have been talking to Racing Greed, say that all 3 options are good and that they tune with the knock box which is nice. Im kinda leaning towards a vipec, Aem is tempting so is haltech, but have been told that warranty claims on the aem are higher then the rest.
my car has a stock Fuel pressure regulator still, does it need aftermarket with new pump and injectors? how much boost for safe daily driver and how much with watermeth? Running 2860-5 turbos, tomei cams, forged internals etc... wondering if i can get away with on board map or if I need external.
Sitting up north bored, might as well try and figure out what i need in line while i have the time.
Thanks

Tommy at racing greed (port coquitlam) claims that he will be able to tune the ems v2 well. I actually just bought the ems v2 and will be having him tune it in a few weeks. There's also Wayne at garage 5 (richmond) who is actually trained to tune aem ems ecu's. He wasn't trained in the ems v2 but apparently "it shouldn't be too different".

Good luck. But definitely decide on who to tune it and then choose your ecu.

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[NismoS-tune]

You're questioning the need of an after market FPR but are ready to get a $1500 vipec and water meth? lol

You could run 20 psi on those turbos is fine but it comes down to your waste gates. If they're 1 bar, then you're lowest boost is 1 bar. At the least, I was able to run 300whp on those turbos (no less and that is with a silly rich vipec tune)

[Black BNR32]

what made you decide to steer away from the aem?

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they lose timing and make things go boom. for serious.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1652076&highlight=aem+sync

[cbileske]

I will get a aftermarket fpr if it is required; thats why im asking. Have been told from a few people they are more of a "bling" part; similar to adjustable cam wheels, help fine tune; but not needed... never had a lean problem yet, but will be more demand. If the car didnt get turbo shuffle, I would be happy driving it the way it is now.. has never broke down in the last 4 years.

was that 300whp per turbo?

[Skym]

AEM ECU's can play up due to bad earths, old wiring (sensitive to this), where stock ECU isn't (why I use stock ECU on my car). Also AEM ECU requires new timing disc inside CAS, proper settings for CAS (rising, falling edge, etc settings). It's probably best to run crank trigger setup with AEM ECU, as stock CAS can wander with base ignition timing (worse with R34 Hitachi CAS that's known to do this, less so with Mitsubishi CAS on R32, R33) due to cambelt, etc. AEM ECU is based off a British made ECU, forget the name of it.

FPR is more of a service thing and they do fail due to diaphram inside. Adjustable aftermarket FPR allows you to up fuelpressure if injectors are maxed out and are rebuildable (Sard FPR, etc).

Check internal wastegate actuators. If at different psi they can cause turbo shuffle. Also I think can play with individual fuel trim (Link, ViPEC ECU) to sort it out.

[cbileske]

What do i need to test the internal wastegate?

AEM ECU's can play up due to bad earths, old wiring (sensitive to this), where stock ECU isn't (why I use stock ECU on my car). Also AEM ECU requires new timing disc inside CAS, proper settings for CAS (rising, falling edge, etc settings). It's probably best to run crank trigger setup with AEM ECU, as stock CAS can wander with base ignition timing (worse with R34 Hitachi CAS that's known to do this, less so with Mitsubishi CAS on R32, R33) due to cambelt, etc. AEM ECU is based off a British made ECU, forget the name of it.

FPR is more of a service thing and they do fail due to diaphram inside. Adjustable aftermarket FPR allows you to up fuelpressure if injectors are maxed out and are rebuildable (Sard FPR, etc).

Check internal wastegate actuators. If at different psi they can cause turbo shuffle. Also I think can play with individual fuel trim (Link, ViPEC ECU) to sort it out.

[RABBIT]

Haltech alllllll day

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