Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rebuilt motor, oiling problem already?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Rebuilt motor, oiling problem already?

    I'm having this problem with my rebuilt rb26 where the oil pressure seems a lot lower than the values in the fsm



    There was a knocking sound in the middle of the video but that was from the vibration of the car touching the phone

    Here is what I've done:
    - N1 oil pump
    - extended crank collar
    - loctite all 7 screws of the backing plate

    I feel like I've covered all the grounds when it comes to this oiling problem but I guess not...

    My guess so far is either backing plate screws backed out, or my oil pressure sensor is hooped either way I'm going to check actual oil pressure with a gauge as per fsm to confirm

  • #2
    My gauge does the same thing. sometimes it would read normally, but very rarely. ive learnd to ignore and hope everything is good. One day ill get a real gauge
    Being built...

    Comment


    • #3
      How long ago was it rebuilt and what weight of oil are you using? It is odd though cause it either reads 4-7 cold, like 2 at a steady cruise and 4 while your stepping into the gas. I've never seen it bounce or hunt like that while your rpm was steady towards the end of your video.

      The stock sender is garbage though and not very acurate, try and remove it and tap it on a nice hard surface and maybe some gunk will come out? It's fairly simple to remove with 17 or 19mm stubby wrench. After my rebuild the stock gauge and sender wouldn't read right and I ended up installing a aftermarket sender and gauge just to make sure I had proper oil pressure and it was fine. I ended up cleaing the old sender and reinstalling it and it's been perfect ever since.

      Comment


      • #4
        Did it read about the same before your rebuild? I would guess a faulty oil pressure sender, I've had two friends in the last 2 months with rb's have the same problem and a new sender fixed the problem. I think they're about $50 from Nissan. Your idea to check pressure with a gauge is a good one though, do that before replacing parts/tearing everything apart

        Comment


        • #5
          Yeah I would at least check and make sure have good pressure first before you start spending money on gauges. If you get a new sender for cheap just swap it out and see if the gauge reads normal.

          Comment


          • #6
            What's cheaper and very important when modding these cars is getting a good oil pressure gauge or at the least replace the OEM sending unit... I'm sure it's fine but until you know for sure, maybe don't run it, then again, if it were really low, it would have failed already haha
            Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
            Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
            Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
            Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
            Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
            White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

            Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

            start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
            lol

            Comment


            • #7
              I just removed the oem unit which by the way is a major pain in the ass, looks fairly clean, but with a 20 year old sensor, that doesnt say much, going to test the real pressure tomorrow

              I've put 250km on the motor so far, cold start it hits around 5-6 bars and idles around 4 bars til the oil warms up, one night while driving, I've seen as low as 1/8th of a bar(freaked me the hell out). And that hunting is what really scares me at the moment

              I'm currently using 5w30 penzoil mineral oil for break in period, and im on my second oil change, first one after 50km, 200km on current oil

              heres my other question, does the aftermarket oil pressure kits go directly in the same location the oem unit came out of? i guess its just a matter of whether the thread and pitch is the same right?
              Last edited by gezed; 08-24-2012, 12:30 AM.

              Comment


              • #8
                yeah the aftermarket sender goes in the same spot as the oem one. After my rebuild the pressure reading seems the same as yours, a little higher when cold though but sometimes it would almost go to zero!! I left the car at work and installed the aftermarket sender and the pressure was normal. I also used thinner oil for break in and after a few oil changes and installing the oem sender again it's been normal ever since. I also switched over to royal purple 10w40 after the break in period and since that oil weight and cleaned oem sender it's been normal for the last 6 months.

                Comment


                • #9
                  yep! turns out to be just a crapped out oem sender, so relieved!

                  After installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge, oil pressure looks very healthy: 1.8bar@1000rpm, 3.2bar@2000rpm when fully warmed up oil temperatures

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    How do you clean the stock oil pressure sender / sensor, as it looks to be a sealed part? -

                    Last edited by Skym; 08-24-2012, 06:17 PM.
                    RESPONSE MONSTER

                    The most epic signature ever "epic".

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The little hole in the sender, spary brake cleaner, bang a few times and some junk with come out. That's how I cleaned it out, I think it's more the oil I use now since the rebuild? 10w40 but the oem sender is still in there and reading perfect now.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Do you need to have the oil drained to take it off?
                        1992 BNR32 SKYLINE GTR

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          No you might get a little drip. It's best to do it first thing before you run the car, it take hours for the engine to cool down.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thank you for sharing.

                            Not sure about banging a sensor, maybe rodding the hole??? Oil deposits blocking hole makes sense why stock oilpressure gauge reads funny. Like most things on Skylines it's a service problem.

                            Actually 1 and a half hours when coolant is warm and about 2-3 hours before cold.
                            Last edited by Skym; 08-26-2012, 05:15 PM.
                            RESPONSE MONSTER

                            The most epic signature ever "epic".

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              No problem, yeah don't bang it and I used the brake cleaner straw and poked it in a few times and lightly tapped it on my work bench and even more junk came out.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X