looking for any input to mantain this power level for a long time

[Brandon]

Rb26

CP Piston
Mauler rods
ACL Race bearings
r33 crank
N1 oil pump
N1 water pump
Tomei head gasket kit
Tomei Head studs
270 Cams
Tomei Cam gears
Tomei timming belt
Port and polished head( nothing major just a clean up)
Greddy Intake Manifold
Tubular Exhaust manifold
Gt2860-5 Twin Turbos
850cc injectors
Aermotive fuel pump
Yellow Jacket Coil Packs
Tomei dump pipes
3.5 inch Apexi N1 exhaust with cat delete
G4 link Stand Alone with boost controller
Running Map senor not MAF
Stock interooler with pipping and BOV

This is my setup im running 550whp at 17psi

im curious what mods i can do to help longevity of my motor at this power leve. does anybody have any idea how long this motor should last. i drive periodically hard but always shift at 7000 rpm not higher mostly normal driving.

anything would help thanks guys! im gonna eventually shoot for 600whp i just want to make sure the longevity of the motor is there. if you guys think im pushing the motor with this setup please let me know too

[Dragon Humper]

With the stock intercooler I wouldn't push it much more untill you upgrade that. Seeing as how it's a casual car and not a DD I would run some Tolulene in the fuel to make sure its up to scratch. 2 litres per tank would be enough. The stock IC flows well, it just doesn't cool worth a damn once you are pushing enough air to make 600fwhp.

Other than that, as long as the builder didn't make the oil clearances too tight and you change your oil often (synth or not) there is no reason why you can't push those injectors to the max. Fuel pump up for it?



Jon.

[Brandon]

yeah, i got a aeromotive 340lph as far as oil changes, at that power level is is best to change it a lot sooner than 3,000k or 3 months?

[Brandon]

i just did 2,800k on mobile one and it was of watery consistency. i had to do a flush with fresh oil to get some of it out. went to royal purple hopefully that lasts longer.

[Dragon Humper]

You should be good at 3000km, I personally run Shell Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil, but that's a whole other debate. The Aeromotive 340 hotwired should be just about done at not much more than where you are at. If you want to stay single intank, the Walbro turbine 400lph is the only step up.

How are your intake temps?


Jon.

[Skym]

With oils, depends on use of car. If thrash car on racetrack, you treat it like a racecar, by replacing all oils on car before and after race / trackdays (why trackdays can become expensive, as have to replace brake pads, oils, etc). Oil type depends on clearances (as mentioned above), oiltemps of engine. Oilpressure can tell you condition of bearings, etc, as oilpressure can drop when clearances widen. With oiltemp you match the w?? part to cst rating at 100 degrees C (thickness of oil for clearances) and the higher the w?? rating, the higher the cst rating is.

Oil longevity is due to oiltemps and if keep around operating temp it can last 2x longer than without keeping at operating temp, hence why oilcoolers are used on N1 GTR endurance racecars (diffheads, gearbox, transfercase, fuel, engine).

With performance engine on street, you have to find out when the best time to replace oil is (when engine drops in power or feels sluggish). I worked out from testing on my own car, that half the km, months with factory oil change periods is sufficient enough to keep car well maintained on the street.

Longevity of engine depends on how you treat it, what boost level you run all the time and if engine has oil starvation problems due to lack of dry sump setup. A dry sump setup is needed on high hp RB engines running higher boost levels on racetrack, or when encounter high G corners (where engine failure commonly happens with RB26) or launches at dragstrip, to make them reliable. Also dry sump eliminates blowby problems. Wet sumps have their limit.

With engine, etc rebuilds, depends on use. With street, occasional track use, 100,000km. If racecar, 3500km max between routine rebuilds. Some I know with GTR racecars do it every 3000km. That applies to wet sump engines.

[Brandon]

while i got you guys on here. is there any way to get ride of that constant release from the Blow off valves and light to moderate throttle? mine if damn annoying. ive done the merge pipe and got custom pipe done for where the maf sensors used to be going into the turbos.Im also running stock piping just before the intake manifold, there its HKS because of my greddy manifold. I also have a larger downpipe, dump pipes and im catless with a resonator.

[gtrte37]

depending on what kind of bov you have you can change the spring to a heavier one. Im running a turbosmart raceport and only goes off under load (12psi spring)

[Skym]

BOV should release when back off throttle while off boost, close to 0 on boost gauge (built up pressure before 0 on boost gauge). Synapse BOV on my car does that and get nearly instant transient response when back on throttle.

[NismoS-tune]

Hmm. To keep that setup for a long time, turn the boost down to 1bar.

[Brandon]

why is that too high? what am i missing in my list there?