I keep fouling the car..

[cobrAA]

This is getting very annoying because when it happens, I have to wait like 15-30 minutes before restarting the car so it suck when your at the restaurant leaving home and its even more embarasted when your on a first date ...


This problem is quite new... I would say it started 2 month ago, I then decided to change plug and went with copper racing with frankiman's recommandation, but they might not be suited for my car.

Is there a particular set of spark plug that can avoid this problem !?

If it happens, is there a special procedure to ''un-foul'' them ? I heard, press the gas.. but do I full throttle it? do I simply tap the pedal back and forth? should I press the gas bfore cranking ?

Please help, I felt like a stupid ricer-boy yesterday

[amnash]

whats your afr?

[cobrAA]

I do not have a AFR gauge.. I will propably have it next week.

[Skym]

If sparkplugs are too cold with heatrange, they probably will foul. If spark is weak from coilpacks (could be low power from battery, etc), they probably will foul. If o2 sensors are faulty they could foul. If ECU runs on knock maps they could foul if heatrange is too cold.

[NismoS-tune]

Are you granny driving your 500whp safe tuned car or driving it hard?

[Fred-R]

are you granny driving your 500whp safe tuned car or driving it hard?

lollllllll

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

If sparkplugs are too cold with heatrange, they probably will foul. If spark is weak from coilpacks (could be low power from battery, etc), they probably will foul. If o2 sensors are faulty they could foul. If ECU runs on knock maps they could foul if heatrange is too cold.

^^^ X2.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cobrAA]

I cant see how my driving affect this. The problem can happens AT ANY GIVEN TIMES I start the car.

Having cam and atmo bov, the idle is not as smooth as oem so sometime the car went to drop below 500.. so when I crank, I think its OKAY but last second the f*cker will die.. then forget it.. i cant recrank it. it wont start.

I think skym gave me a solution ( adding a spark igniter to my new coilpack)

[Skym]

You are meant to raise idle rpm with aftermarket cams. Factory idle rpm is for factory cams.

Correct idle rpm, A/F ratio at idle to suit certain spec cams is mentioned here -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e140-157_reytec_page/e154-157_te-info.html

With atmosphere vented BOV, could be getting reversion which makes MAF make ECU switch to rich part of fuelmap and engine stumbles or stalls. Try adjusting BOV so it vents less air on release, or get a Synapse BOV with anti stall fitting. Or recirculate BOV if have MAF's x2.

If have Tial or similar BOV, can replace spring to match vacuum of engine (will be less vacuum with aftermarket cams, hence replacing BOV spring to suit vacuum of engine). The springs are vacuum rated, so should be easy to match to engine.

Also if TPS is not touching idle contact, ECU doesn't kick rpm up when back off throttle and engine can drop below idle rpm and sometimes stall.

[cobrAA]

I look like to vote Skym for the most useful user on gtrcan :P

I will start by swapping the spring in my blitz bov (its already ordered)

[Phastwon]

Are you driving and the car starts to stall, or the car won't start at all. I had a problem where I would drive for about 30 minutes and the car would start to have trouble idling, then it would die and not want to re-start. Turned out one of the MAF's crapped out, but the other one was fine.

[cobrAA]

tuner fixed the issues. lowered the startup fuel in the nistune ecu.

llook like the problem is now resolved.