whats involved with fitting HKS banjo bolt turbo restrictors?? (engine in car)

[PurpleStreak]

My best guess is like yours, that the solenoid bleeds the air back to the recirc piping.

You will have to find a separate pressure source for your boost controller if you wish to discard the vacuum lines on the turbo side of the engine.

[jimBNR32]

My best guess is like yours, that the solenoid bleeds the air back to the recirc piping.

You will have to find a separate pressure source for your boost controller if you wish to discard the vacuum lines on the turbo side of the engine.

i guess i could T into the top green vac hose i take it for a pressure source for the boost controller? does that line run anywhere else other than the solenoid and actuator lines (that i plan to block/remove)? if it doesnt i could remove that hose, block the end sitting by the block and just run a hose line direct from that plenum port straight to my boost controller??

and just run my own separate rubber hoses to the actuators.
sound like a plan?

i already have my boost gauge reading taken from the balancer tube, windscreen side. the car did originally come with the boost gauge T-d into the FPR line :-/

[MattiasJacobs]

i like the idea of this.
i assume your talking about the left hand side banjo of the 2 that bolt up to the comp housing??
these look reachable from the top easily with a few bits removed.

i was HOPING it was infact this banjo i needed to replace, but seems not, well thats not what the restrictors from hks are for (there for the one attached directly on the oil feed to the housing) :-(

Check your thread pitch and nut size on your banjo. As far as i know the hks restrictor goes there too if you already have them. The one underneath connected directly to the turbo is like 1mm smaller nut size.

[jimBNR32]

Check your thread pitch and nut size on your banjo. As far as i know the hks restrictor goes there too if you already have them. The one underneath connected directly to the turbo is like 1mm smaller nut size.

they look different sizes.
the 2 that attach on the bracket look pretty large in comparision.

its only the one at the oil feed itself on the housing that is smaller by the looks of things and the hks only fits here....

i read someone tried to fit it where you suggest, but they are different sizes.


any info on if and where to drain some coolant for this task?? i imagine those water lines are full?

[NismoS-tune]

I have a set of turbo oil feed restrictors for sale. They were used for 1200km and are for any BB turbos. PM for details, they're cheap.

You also don't have to do no jdm jimmy friggin with welding and drilling.

Just to be clear, These are the oil feed hoses too. The restrictor is built into them so no modifying involved.

[markdett]

As other's have stated just bite the bullet and remove both turbos, will save you alot of heartache.

For draining the coolant there should be a plug on the bottom of the radiator, if not remove the bottom hose. Once removed, remove the radiator cap. Shouldn't need to drain the oil.

As I said before, I'd be replacing all gaskets/copper washers. Fair enough if you wanna try re-use the gaskets, but the copper washers are one use items.

If it leaks do you really want to be doing the job all over again?

[markdett]

Oh as for cleaning up the vac lines, I pretty much ditched the OEM lines for the turbo wastgates. (These plump into the rear port of the plenum and then run into a hard line under the plenum, around the head and to the turbo's.

Im not using a charcoal canistor so im using the large port that usually runs to it (behind the cam belt cover on the turbo side) for my boost controller vac line. You will need to "T" of the vac lines for the wastegates, just make sure you use equal lenghts of vac hose to do this. Boost controller can then be mount on the turbo side.

[jimBNR32]

well i tackled this the weekend, boy what a job!
thankfully i know next time around what to tackle and in what order. it didnt help on sunday i felt unwell too.
i wasted alot of time trying to make a tool to get to the restrictors, i didnt need to in the end, and went out a bought the smallest 1/4" ratchet i could find. this helped with the use of washers. also didnt realise id loose 5+ltrs of coolant when removing the turbo coolant lines!! so a trip to nissan for the premix L248 green coolant to replace it. this is ok i assume??
also wasnt expecting to have to remove the actuators to get the water pipe, boy those were a nightmare to get back on due to bolt placement.
havent got round to bleeding the system yet or driving the car (decided to drop all the coolant and replace with nissan green), but its alive so i must of done something right :-).
everythnig came off ok except the heatshield bolts, i snapped 2 in the manifolds, but not the end of the world, i can drill+tap another time.

in my hast i forgot to turn the heater to full when i drained the system and even when refilling. :-/
hopefull is ok tho, coolant in there was good anyway.

regarding the vac lines, i decided im going to remove/block/disable all the oem solenoid lines, ive already blocked the one behind the head. then just run a hose from plenum to new boost controller by the turbo, and run short t-d lines to the wastegates.