BNR32 RB build - advice needed!

[Akula]

ok,so I try to do a RB26DETT build this winter and will need some advice about that...

so,this is what I would like to do:

CP pistons 86.5mm
Eagle rods
ACL bearings
Cometic head gasket (maybe Tomei)
OEM gaskets,OEM water pump,cam belt tensioner etc)
Tomei Poncam B with adj cam 2X(valve springs should be ok,but what about lifters?)
GT4088R 1.06 turbine
ARP head bolts
some china exhaust manifold (its 200-300$,will reinforce it a bit and it should be ok...I put 10 or more china exh manifolds on projects and if u put supports for the turbo they wont crack)
some china 46mm wastegate (not Tial but its only 100-150$)
will do my own downpipe with screamer
1000cc injectors (found some new Delphi low ohm for cheap)
some china fuel rail with FPR
twin Bosch 044
some china IC (will do my own piping for that)
and as for SA ECU will go with VEMS (cheap,WBO2 is included...have that on my RS2 and few other projects)

now,what to do with standard crank? JUN collar?! (engine is 1992.)
Oil pump? (Tomei is to expensive,maybe N1?)

that should give me 500whp which is enough for Calgary summer driving (thats 3 days a year )...and cant go here on Nurburgring for a weekend drive so dont need something race/drift spec...just to have fun doing the build.

thats about it...also,need some advice about good machine shops in Calgary for block/crank and head skim and new valve stem seals etc? (im used to zi german machine shops )
thanks

[gtrkrauss]

N1 pump, dont need 1000cc injectors for 500 hp, and buy a name brand wastegate to avoid failure. Chinese exhaust manifolds tend to crack under high heat applications. Ive used them on 350, 400 hp builds but i dont know if i would trust one up too 500+. Clutch? boost controller, ECU, 300zx mafs. There are lots of other things that go along with a build. Exhaust and downpipe. Also what are you planning on running to lower knock? meth? octane booster? Toluene?

[nimblestix]

Gt4088 is pretty big for your goal of 500. It will be very very laggy without serious headwork. Look at a smaller borg warner.
They are very cost effective.

Good luck. Do a lil more research with your goals in mind.

Good luck

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[gtrte37]

"some china fuel rail with FPR" - injector fitment is very important and will most likely leak. If your on a budget godspeed makes an
aluminum and anodized rail for $150

[nimblestix]

If your on a tight budget, which I'm kina gathering you are, I would suggest an n1 or -7 Turbo build for an easy 400whp.

Use stock intakes, stock manifolds, just upgrade exhaust, filters, nistune ecu, 550 injectors, boost controller @1.3 bar. Maybe even some poncams but they aren't necessary.

And if you really wanna go fast, drop some weight off that fat heavy car!

Again, good luck.
Cheers!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[Oakville]

Run tomei gaskets. No sense running a cheap gasket in a motor like that.

[Akula]

thanks guys

well,Im not trying to get only 500whp,but atleast to prepare bottom end and do the plumbing for turbo.i know that 4088r is a bit laggy (looking at compressor map will need more rpm to use that top end power)...will try to do a good job on the head (port-polish) and good downpipe...was looking at BW SX turbos...before I was using kkk31-33s for my builds...old school from group B quattros
as for fuel,in EU I got 100 octane as a pump fuel and I was adding a bit of toluene...at didnt seen knock even when above 12s and spark angle was way hi (and turbos were spooling as a heat pumps above efficiency)..here is way lower octane on the pump and im on 1000m elevation ad not sea level...so will need to look into it more.its harder to map here.
I have all base sensors for SA ECU,and will do new wiring.
im not trying to spend 10K for parts and 10K for labor...will try to cut where I can and do most of the things myself.
what is the usual price in machine shops for boring and honing the block,polishing cranck and head work (leveling,new stem seals)?

[Skym]

Tomei metal headgasket, 1.2mm -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e103-104_RB26_gasket.html

If going over 20psi, think about thicker headgasket than 1.2mm (drop compression for reliability).

Cosworth is another (thick seal around cylinders) and is cheap -

http://www.cosworthperformance.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=105&idproduct=889

New stock lifters + shims if can afford it (with new cams).

1000-1200cc injectors -

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb26dett-skyline/1989-2002-rb26dett

I think they are Bosch brand (mentioned on documentation you get with them).

Or buy Injector Dynamics injectors -

http://www.injectordynamics.com/injectors.html

Hardwire kit for fuelpumps -

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/accessories/fuel-pump-hardwire-installation-kit-detail

Sard fuel rail, avoid the rail you mentioned, as the machining is usually not accurate (common with cheap fittings that leak).

6boost, Sinco Customs, etc for steam pipe exhaust manifold (add bracing from engine mount to turbo flange, fexi in front pipe to take weight of exhaust off exhaust manifold).

Intercooler size vs hp -

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/intercoolers

About intercooler you want to use -

http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intec...MR.htm#Chinese Intercoolers

HDI or ARE intercooler.

Also only use OEM waterpump if used on street. N1 waterpump prevents cavitation (creation of bubbles) at higher rpm's and is more for racetrack. It's not suited to stop and start driving. Then there's air separation bottle kit (Greedy, ARC, etc) to remove bubbles from cooling system that can block radiator, etc and causing overheating at higher rpm.

If fitting N1 oilpump, fit Renik gears (stronger). Stock N1 gears can crack, fail.

[Akula]

thanks

was looking into doing something with oil pump.it seems N1 oil pumps fail alot (brand new,mfg after 2005)...getting reimax internals seems good option.

is there some shop i Canada that deals wit reinik/reimax so I can send them my OEM pump so they can fit 12mm internal rotor and ship it back?

[garetth]

N1 pumps failing are mostly from morons. Get the crank extended or r33 crank and don't rev over 7500 rpm and you will be fine.

[Skym]

Keep stock revlimiters and keep away from them if possible. Some oilpump failures including stock are due to some dropping down to lower gear (wrong gear) and it bounces of revlimiter. But if going for a higher hp build, look at fitting a Tomei oilpump or look at dry sump option. I have seen some try the wetsump route with drag engines, only to lose engines and end up going dry sump. Expensive lesson.

Try RightDrive (Canada) -

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/rightdrive/

or

Feast Auto Export (Japan) -

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/feast-auto-export/