Temp sensor position efan

[nimblestix]

Curious if anyone has used the bottom sensor bung of a koyo rad for an aftermarket efan temp sensor spot.

I believe the bung is for the ac fan, I've deleted my ac and I am now installing a fan temp controller, i need a place to install the temperature sensor and this bung appears to be the right size.

Any downfalls from reading temp at the bottom driver side of the rad?


Cheers!
Brent.

[h4X6]

I can't see why... If any anything it would read it as higher due to it coming out of the engine and into the rad at that location which then would turn on the fan a bit earlier or at exact temp you want. Instead of it being near the top where the hotter fluid might take longer to trip the sensor.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk HD

[Skym]

Top radiator hose is best. If thermostat late opens (found out from experience) the bottom radiator hose becomes cold hence won't activate radiator fans and engine overheats. The factory put the temp sensors for dash, ECU close to engine on top radiator hose for a good reason and above is the reason why.

I noticed on Subaru's that run a electric fan setup on radiator (they are better fans than the thin blade aftermarket fans due to wider blades), that they have a temp sensor on engine for the above reason and controller to suit.

The bung, trigger in bottom of stock radiator (green? coloured cable that clips onto drivers side of stock radiator shroud) is for the fan infront of radiator / aircon core and is for when it's a very hot day with aircon on (when cooling system is working properly, no faulty thermostat). It should activate fan at around 90 degrees C coolant temp. Coolant temps are usually in the 80-90 area, so wouldn't be activated unless it's a extreme hot day.

[nick-nismo]

kinda of an off topic question but does the r32 ecu have an temp activated output to say activate e fans at a certain temp?

[Skym]

Not that I know of.

You could use an adjustable fan controller from say a Lotus or similar type of product -

http://www.cliveyboy.com/product/lotus-elan-s1-s2-variable-temperature-fan-controller/

[nimblestix]

Thanks skym, I always trust your knowledge. I bought a fan controller kit but the sensor is pretty big, I think the oem is 1/8npt and this one is 3/8 npt. That's why i was hoping i could use the air con sensor bung as I'm pretty sure it's the same size.

Also I'm already using a mid top hose temperature sensor for my defi gauge so my options are really limited of where I can put this sensor. I'm thinking if I did have a failure my guage should be able to warn be before there's any real problems and I could shut it down quickly enough. However I hate leaving such a small margin for error, so any suggestions of where I can put this thing?

Cheers!
Brent.

[steveo1502]

I used an autometer guage, it's adjustable, sends a ground to the fan when I reaches a set temp, works awesome, but I put the sensor in the too rad hose, the sensor was facing down, on top of the rad hose, would take a really long time for it to actually read any temp( starts at 100) but I flipped the hose and the sensor is now underneath the hose, it made a big difference, temp rises pretty quick.

[Dragon Humper]

I used an autometer guage, it's adjustable, sends a ground to the fan when I reaches a set temp, works awesome, but I put the sensor in the too rad hose, the sensor was facing down, on top of the rad hose, would take a really long time for it to actually read any temp( starts at 100) but I flipped the hose and the sensor is now underneath the hose, it made a big difference, temp rises pretty quick.

I would have to see some pics of that, not sure what you are flipping and swapping there.

I would mount the temp sensor to the lower rad hose, or the output tank side of the rad. I know this has been discussed before and Skym and I had the same answer. I still think its better on the waterpump side than the thermostat side. You only want to assist cooling the coolant after the rad can't do it anymore with just the normal motion of air being forced through the rad via vehicle motion. Having the fans kick in sooner than that is a waste of power and overworking the fans and shortening their life.

The temp sampling on my brand new truck and on my Caprice (both electric fans) is located in the block very close to the output of the waterpump (after coming out of the rad). That tells me that they want the fans to only run as needed not prematurely because of heat bleeding out of the t-stat through the small hole or slightly cracked open while the coolant coming out of the rad is more than cool enough.



Jon.

[Skym]

I remember that discussion and Dragon Humper had very good points.

I think the stock clutch fan is best, but that's me.

Nimblestix, you could use a thermo switch from Jcar to activate fans (some with RB engine fit on top radiator hose or close to engine) -

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=ST3821

But my concern was air running over thermo switch from fans that might not make it work (I would think it needs to be shielded from fans some how).

[GTR203]

Just throwing it out there I have a 52mm alum rad and I used the ac fan bung (I deleted ac) for my thermo switch and it works great. Going on year 2 never overheated even on days that was close to 100 degrees running 2 12 inch fans

[nimblestix]

Just throwing it out there I have a 52mm alum rad and I used the ac fan bung (I deleted ac) for my thermo switch and it works great. Going on year 2 never overheated even on days that was close to 100 degrees running 2 12 inch fans

Thank you sir, interesting feedback.

However update!

As all I can seem to do is turn wrenches and get a lil' creative, my tuner reminded me kindly that I do have pretty decent standalone that can control these fans from the original temp sensor....duh my bad. *face palm*.

Fwiw aem ems v2 can control just about anything you throw at it.

Cheers!

Sent from a galaxy far, far, away.