Died at idle and erratic idle

[ChezoGTR]

So my cars been running amazing up untill today. Last week I replaced my bov.'s because the flange on one of them cracked. They are stock recircs. Everything is tight. Triple checked. I also put new hks intakes on just the other day. I filled up with gas a dew hours ago drove to the girlfriends and when we left to go out my car died three times when I came to a stop and then I would rev up a bit and just wasnt running good.

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[Skym]

HKS podfilter clamps onto adaptor via intake hose clamp before MAF??? If so, then there might be a bit too much air getting in before MAF and ECU might be selecting wrong part of fuel map, thus running engine too rich, hence the engine stalling.

With intake airleak behind MAF, can make engine stutter / run rich (similar to coilpack miss).

[ChezoGTR]

It almost feels like in getting no fuel. Its not back firing at all

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[Skym]

T in a fuel pressure gauge inbetween fuel rail, fuel filter and see if fuel pressure is within specs. Around 42.6psi before turning engine on and around 35.5psi at idle with vacuum hose connected to FPR, 42.6 psi with vacuum hose to FPR removed, block nipple on intake plenum.

But in saying that, it happened after filling up with fuel. Have you made sure it's not a bad batch of fuel (it does happen at some fuel stations). Also how low was fuel tank before refilling (if run too low the fuel pump can get gas that sits above fuel through fuel pump and could cause fuel pump to overheat fail or fail due to lack of lube (fuel cools, lubes the fuel pump).

[caliber676]

I'd take a second stab at the fuel as well. When I worked at Mercedes a brand new SL65 AMG came in and was fueled, car wouldn't run or start after a few blocks. Siphoned the fuel, got new fuel and gave the station an earful.

[judasentinel]

This doesnt sound like a rich fuel condition. Besides, what Skym is saying would become irrelevant if the air is leaking in BEFORE the MAF, i.e., after the filters and before entering the MAFs. If the extra air is going through the MAFs, the ECU is reading it all and that air (unless there is a leak outwards from the system after the MAFs) is all going into the engine. So the ECU wont be enriching the fuel mixture.

I would lean towards one of the following:

1. Bad fuel or clogged fuel line/filter/pump
2. MAF issues - check MAFs for crap (do this first since it is the easiest to do)
3. Air leak - BOVs, or any other piping AFTER the MAFs.
4. Ignitor, wiring or coilpack issue
5. Bad CAS
6. Broken turbo (remote possibility, unless they are stock and one beats on them beyond their capability - I've done that to my RB25DET in my first Skyline)

Is the car overheating at all? Please remember that any air leak BEFORE it enters the MAF is irrelevant. If you're not sputtering under deceleration, you are likely not running rich at all. But if you find yourself running too lean (which can happen and is very dangerous), I would edge towards checking for leaks.

I wish we had a proper sticky somewhere about ALL that can and does go wrong with these cars mechanically, organized issue-wise. That way, people would not get so worried about it.

All the best, bro. Hope you find the problem soon. Keep us posted.

[ChezoGTR]

Update. Last night I drove home from a friends house. Car was doing the same thing. It was bogging down whe I pushed on the gas. I had to burp the throtle to get going. Once in driving and foot it on the gas its okay. Second foot comes off it either trys to die or rpms rev up to about 1200. After 10 mins of driving it was fine. This morning I when I went to work I primed the pump before starting it. It took a solid 5-10 seconds to fire up but once she did she ran fine all the way to work. ATM im resting my ecu. Hoping that maybe because I just put on the hks pods its messing with the maping. If not im leaning hard towards fuel pump.

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[ChezoGTR]

Update. The idle was hunting in my car so I popped my hood and jumped out and tapped on my maf and it stopped hunting and went back to normal. Guess I need new mafs.

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[judasentinel]

Glad you figured it out

[steveo1502]

Or they can b taken apart and resoldered

[h4X6]

Yes you could do that but it's never a guarantee it will work.

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[Skym]

Good to hear.

Replacing, popping lid and resoldering is usually the best way.

[ChezoGTR]

well i took the mafs apart just now. the maf for the rear turbo has a yello dust on the inside and it looks like the laqor is buggered on one of the circuit strips. time for new mafs. anyone know where i can get them?. is it a part nissan can get?

[ChezoGTR]

As you can see on the left side
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[Skym]

Ouch.

Look at the sticker on the side of square? part of MAF, as has the part number.

GTR MAF's are 65mm in diameter, no other Nissan has those that I know of (might, but never heard of any).

But if have a retuneable ECU, can use Maxima / Infiniti MAF x2 (same MAF as RB20DET MAF and uses same table on ECU, 80mm, rated to around 300hp each). It's not uncommon to fit RB25 or RB20 MAF"s on N1 GTR's in Japan with pigtails (plug + bit of wiring) to suit.