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  • Turbo install.....

    So as of late my gtr has been showing some smoke when driving it and I'm sure the turboes are the cause of it. I have an extra set and would like to take care of this issue this weekend. That being said I know the turboes will be a pain to replace but once replacing the turboes and flushing the lines is there any trick to replacing the fluids? I have read in a few spots that I will need to bleed the coolant, if so how would I got about this? I will also change the oil and hopefully have my power and no black smoke follow me anymore.

    Any help or input would be greatly appreciated

  • #2
    If you're not sure how to replace fluids, the turbo swap job may be risky for you lol.

    Flushing fluids is the same as all other vehicles thankfully for you!
    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
    Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
    Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
    lol

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    • #3
      Mechanical aspect of it is easy. You take off the garbage parts and replace with new parts. Although these cars are the same in so many ways it doesn't hurt to ask. I would like to make sure I do everything properly and don't mess anything up. I was basically in a round about way asking how to bleed the coolant after. Thanks for all the help though. Some great info, lol. Ill just keep reading

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      • #4
        For anyone that plans on flushing the system in the gtr here is a link with some tips. The bleeder screw is something I was unaware of and have take. Back something from the read:




        If your not going to provide some help with the matter may I ask why you bother to post? I'm asking for some quick tips not anything much at all. What's the point of a forum if no one contributes anything?

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        • #5
          Would like to know once done turboes. I will obviously need to bleed the system. Should I run the engine with the rad cap and bleeder screw open or should I fill the rad up and then open bleeder once rad becomes full? Just want a second opinion.

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          • #6
            Shouldn't be any need to bleed it, I've never had to, but I tried that bolt on my rb20 but it diDnt make any difference, maybe if it does get airlock you might have to, just run it for a while and the system should bleed itself really. I swapped my turbos , it's a real pita.

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            • #7
              If there is a air lock in the system will you not over heat all the time? I want to be sure all air has been rid of before making use of the vehicle again

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              • #8
                If there is yes, but chances are slim, I've drained a lot of rads and have yet to see if happen, ive done it on my gtr at Least 10 times, there are some good threads to read about removing turbos, there's a couple tricks to get them out,

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                • #9
                  It's not really a sealed system, the coolant will just push air through and out , just leave the cap off, once it heats up, you will see the coolant moving

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                  • #10
                    Lift front end of car up a foot or so. Fill with coolant. Run car, open bleed screw top up as needed.

                    I bought a $400 air coolant separator. I don't have to bleed anything, does it for me automatically.
                    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
                    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
                    Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
                    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
                    Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
                    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

                    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

                    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
                    lol

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                    • #11
                      ^ that sounds like a handy tool.

                      Thank you for the help everyone. I will tackle this hopefully on Saturday or Sunday. I'm feeling really confident about doing this now.

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                      • #12
                        Make sure you use the same brand of coolant (Nissan recommended coolant only), as 2x different brand of coolant = corrosion can occur. Also flush block, head, heater core, clean inside of overflow bottle when engine is cold (if do it when engine is hot, can crack block, head, etc). Then refill with the correct coolant to water mix ratio for the environment car is encountering (cold or hot conditions) and make sure you turn heater on to allow fluid to enter heater core. If you don't the coolant level can drop. Then check coolant level after a few drives, as it can drop a bit.

                        Turbo's have washers for oilfeeds (if using stock piping), make sure you replace them or the turbo can leak oil.

                        Before starting engine with new turbo's, prelube the CHRA (centre part of turbo) with oil or remove CAS plug and crank engine until oil gets to turbo's. Dry starting with new turbo's is one of the quickest ways to make them fail.
                        RESPONSE MONSTER

                        The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                        • #13
                          Very good info. Thank you!!!

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