no ecu build?

[ChezoGTR]

i want more power. but not that much cuz i know i cant get to much without a ecu. my reason for not outting a ecu in is we have no awd dynos in Manitoba and the closest one is Minneapolis. i have a cat back exhaust. test pipe, hsk intakes, and boost pill removed. just wondering what else i cant do to bump power up with out tuning or blowing turbos

[h4X6]

Turn it in rwd mode then tune... pull the fuse then do whatever tuning needs to be done.

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[Nismo_line]

its a r33 so you cant just pull the fuse

[steveo1502]

Could always Pull the front drive shaft, is you ecu stock? Chipped? I run an impul ecu, it's awesome, night and day from stock, I can run 15-17 pounds of boost, no problems. I swapped injectors one time because the guy I got it from said it was tuned with 550's, but I don't think so,

[Skym]

R33 GTR has preload to front wheels (4WD programming), so front propshaft has to be removed. R32 GTR doesn't, so can remove 4wd fuse to dyno in rwd.

Can fit Nistune + stock R32 GTR ECU with R32 GTR o2 sensors to suit with stock tune, then retune on dyno. R33 ECU can't be chipped due to not many have the fitting for emulator that fits into 184pin socket, 184pin chip, 184pin chip burner, etc. There is a company in Japan that sells all of those parts. Other option is a daughter board + mods to main circuit board to use daughter board with 2x 24 pin EPROM sockets and run 2x Nistune boards.

Other options is PowerFC (one of cheapest options) with a retune or fit a Link or ViPEC ECU circuit board inside stock ECU case (run map sensor, IAT sensor, etc) + retune. Or plug in Haltech + retune.

[ChezoGTR]

You guys aren't getting what I'm saying lol. I want to do as much as I can before I need a new ecu. I'm just wondering what I can do with out a ecu tune

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[h4X6]

practically nothing... the ECU is tuned with fractory specs

you might get away with a bigger exhaust, but thats it... turning up the boost requires more fuel, therefore a new tune... injectors, new tune... there isnt much you can do without needing a whole new tune

[Mental-26]

Do it all and get a Rom tune. Any good tuner is able to do it well maintaining the original ecu. This way you don't need a new one basically just a tune

[Skym]

With stock ECU tune engine runs leaner than it should at lower rpm, so can't take much more than factory boost level. You can run adjustable FPR, upgraded fuelpump to raise fuel pressure which makes engine run richer, but ECU tune is the only way to fix it properly.

With ECU tune there can be up to around 40hp (aggressive tune) increase. 20hp with safe tune. That's at same boost level.

[ChezoGTR]

I hate winnipeg

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[Skym]

Tuners can travel to tune your car, but it adds extra cost to tune, dyno rental cost.

[ChezoGTR]

If I were to tune with the prop shaft off would it affect the tune because I'm tuning on rwd and not awd

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[h4X6]

If I were to tune with the prop shaft off would it affect the tune because I'm tuning on rwd and not awd

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No it shouldn't affect anything. The load will be the same in the engine either way. Whether the load comes from the rear wheels or all 4... and it's not true awd anyways.

You can tune in rwd and be fine.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.



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[Skym]

Amount of load on engine should be different which might affect ECU tune (might not knock in rwd, but might knock in 4wd), but can road tune afterwards on motorway, road, hills, etc to check if ignition timing is causing knock problems (most tuners do a road tune after dyno, including Nismo). Also you'll get more hp in rwd mode.

[BRN32]

Swipped from SAU:

"Below is a method recommended to me as an alternative to pulling the front drive shaft out, for dyno runs, etc :whistling: For an R33 GTR

Locate the air bleed plug over the drivers feet, this is normally used to bleed the ATTESA system (disconnect plug, turn key to ON, pump runs flat out so you can get under and crack the bleed nipples).

However, if you disconnect this plug, START the car, then hit the brake pedal 5x times (just keep pressing it until 4WD light starts flashing). This tells the ATTESA controller to go into 2WD mode (it is one of the two methods outlined in the 33GTR manual, the other is dropping the shaft).

If the 4WD light starts flashing, you're in 2WD mode. If you start rolling and get a SOLID 4WD light, then that has thrown an error (most likely didn't push brake pedal enough times).

To go back into 4WD mode, simply turn car off and reconnect plug"

Full thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...-gtr-into-rwd/