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  • Oil temp raising too high..

    so i bought my car 2 years ago now and have been driving it with this problem and have never known if it was normal or not. so just recently i was cruising with a friend that owns a r33 rb26 as well and he noticed that my oil temp was getting way higher then his ever gets.. in the 130-140 range on my stock oil temp gauge.. after hard driving but he said his never breaks 100 no matter how hard he's driving. Is it my guage or has someone else ever had this problem..? i've heard of it happening to 32's but not really to 33's.
    cheers

  • #2
    Way too high. Some GTR's might see those oil temps on racetrack when hard driven.

    80-90 degree C is where it should be under normal driving, ideally 85 degree C when doing oil pressure checks. RB20DET with light mods, fairly lean tune and normal driving reaches around 90 degrees C and doesn't have a heat exchanger (coolant to oil) like RB26 has.

    Headgasket leak from one of the cylinders to oil gallery might be a cause. But engine would run rough at idle, etc. Lean ECU tune could be another causing high coolant, oil temps or faulty thermostat late opening causing high coolant temps which are transfered to oil via stock heat exchanger (stock coolant temp gauge wouldn't move to highest mark unless engine is overheating). Also drop in coolant level when looking inside radiator is another symptom of faulty thermostat. Would need to hook up Consult, Nistune or similar and see if coolant temps are rising at same time on ECU.
    Last edited by Skym; 06-25-2013, 10:03 PM.
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    • #3
      thanks for the reply.. my car has full turbo back exhaust arc induction boosting 1 bar stock turbos, koyo rad, nismo thermostat. pretty stock as well. was thinking about getting my ecu re flashed down at light speed.. think its somewhere to start?
      cheers

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      • #4
        You're welcome. Fitting an aftermarket oil temp sensor, oil temp gauge should tell you if it's sensor or gauge related.

        Low temp thermostat + bigger radiator requires ECU to be retuned to suit (warmup tables, etc), as engine (depending on rpm, etc) might stay on warmup tables, run richer than it should and use more gas (I noticed on a R34 GTR that a bigger radiator can drop coolant temps by 10 degrees C). If retune via stock ECU, need R32 GTR ECU, R32 GTR o2 sensors to suit (R33 GTR ECU is untuneable outside Japan). R32 GTR ECU is actually worse than R33 ECU, as R33 ECU has better control over fuel side of things. Nismo usually swap R32 GTR ECU for R33 GTR ECU on a R32 GTR.

        I would check fuel pressure via T'd in fuel pressure gauge inbetween fuel filter, fuel rail to make sure it's not fuel pump on the way out and check FPR (pull vacuum hose off FPR, block nipple on intake so there's no intake airleak and see if fuel pressure rises 7.1psi or so on fuel pressure gauge). This is a few of the basic checks they should do before tuning engine.

        If not that, check coolant and replace, as could be old or have bubbles in the cooling system that can cause radiator to block, cause excessive temps. Usually you run a header tank to remove these bubbles. If look at radiator vs engine height you'll notice they are near even, when highest point in cooling system should be above radiator, engine and where bubbles move to (header tank).

        Or need a extra air to oil engine oil cooler to help keep oil temps under control.

        I just hope you are running at least a w50 oil if oil temps are getting that high.
        Last edited by Skym; 06-26-2013, 08:05 AM.
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        • #5
          Your sender/guage is buggered. Oil temps are usually 5-10 deg over coolant if everything is normal and you aren't honking on it. If you were hitting 120-140 just driving around normal your rad would have boiled over big time. Oil and coolant temps are pretty tied together unless you are really pushing the car hard for a long time. Even then you shouldn't see much over 110 deg.



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          • #6
            I second that. If everything else is normal, then your sender or gauge is broken.
            Originally posted by Dragon Humper View Post
            Your sender/guage is buggered. Oil temps are usually 5-10 deg over coolant if everything is normal and you aren't honking on it. If you were hitting 120-140 just driving around normal your rad would have boiled over big time. Oil and coolant temps are pretty tied together unless you are really pushing the car hard for a long time. Even then you shouldn't see much over 110 deg.



            Jon.

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            • #7
              It's normal to see higher than 110 deg temps when you drive a stock oil cooled r32 hard. The 33 have better coolers which is why they can run cooler. The r32 doesn't really have a cooler (water/oil heater/cooler is all). Best thing is to delete the factor cooler and go remote air oil cooler
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              • #8
                Bumping this old thread rather than starting a new one.
                My 90 R32 GTR started giving strange oil temp readings on the oem gauge. I'll drive city or long highway stretches (hours at ~3K RPM) and it stays pinned at 85* or so, no fuss. Then sometimes after being on the highway for a few hours it will all of a sudden increase to 110* or so, sometimes even 130 or 150* and then fall back down slowly (No change in driving) to 85* and be normal for the rest of the drive.
                One time when it started climbing rapidly and went to 150* I pulled over just in case something was up. Nothing, no coolant boiling over, factory temp gauge stuck in the middle (I know it's buffered and won't budge unless it's really hot) checked the dipstick after the drive also and everything looks normal.
                I know the oem oil pressure sending units are known to crap out, but I have not heard much about the oil temp sending unit doing the same. Is this common?

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                • #9
                  Most sensors clog over time and need to be replaced (maintenance).

                  Long trips on a highway is similar to racetrack in terms of oil temps rising. But sometimes it can be a headgasket leak (cylinder to oil) that only shows up after a long trip on highway.
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                  • #10
                    Compression test is even and healthy across the board, 145 psi +|- 3 across all 6. And the temp goes back down and stays down after spiking once. Just seems like an odd issue, I'll order a new temp sensor. I need a new oil pressure sensor too anyway.


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                    • #11
                      Also, doesn't the stock water temp gauge move up after 110deg?


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