Oil temps and water temps still too high....

[Dragon Humper]

The only thing a high pressure cap will do is raise the boiling point of the water. More than 1.1 bar is only going to shorten the life of all the hoses. Your cooling system should be good enough that running no cap won't cause you to boil over. Try and hook up a secondary temp guage of some type to double check your temps.



Jon.

[steveo1502]

.9 is stock, most aftermarket rads come with 1.1

[Skym]

Higher pressure radiator cap is only needed with thicker aftermarket radiator. With stock radiator it can cause waterpump to leak, etc. Also might cause water plugs to blow.

You'll find a higher pressure radiator cap (for radiator) with aftermarket header tanks. Header tanks are designed to be used with thicker aftermarket radiators.

So do you think that I should just invest in an aftermarket radiator, bigger and more efficient fans and an oil cooler to tame this issue...maybe some water wetter or fluid equivalent? I'm also wondering if maybe my clutch fan isn't working properly....

Depends on the hp engine is producing (talk to a local Japanese tuner who should be able to tell you what works for the hp of engine and environment). Engine oil cooler is a minimum mod for mild tuned engine (boosted up with stock turbo's). Nismo is the best oil cooler kit to buy for stock engine (has oil cooler, mounting brackets, hoses, sandwich plate, ducting for bumper, etc), but it isn't cheap.

Anything bigger (separating oil, coolant, removing heat exchanger) with oil cooler core requires N1 oil pump, Group-A oil pump (or Tomei oil pump) and those are fitted with a upgraded stock engine (N1 or with forged pistons, stock rods) or fully forged (Group-A, Tomei) engine. Look at Tomei crate engine specs to see what I mean.

Use recommended stock coolant from Nissan, as is designed to work with stock cooling system. Also don't mix brands of coolant (can cause corrosion). Make sure cooling system including heater core is flushed out of old coolant.

When clutch on engine fan fails it locks and starts spinning fan faster. If spin fan and it feels like it locks (from memory it should have some play, then resistance) or makes a noise from clutch, then clutch part on engine fan has probably failed. There's a spring on front of clutch part that gets radiant heat from radiator core and expands which engages clutch more and spins fan faster. That clutch can fail and usually needs to be replaced on high km engines (part of routine maintenance). Replace with low km fan clutch from same engine.

If run electric fans, use stock Subaru type fans, aftermarket fan controller with coolant temp sensor on engine (as done with Subaru radiator fans) or close to engine as possible (top radiator hose near where stock ECU, dash coolant temp sensors are located).

[NismoS-tune]

Actuslly, sounds like it wasn't bled right. Get that coolant bled or buy an air/coolant separator

[Dragon Humper]

Which is super easy to do, just raise the front of the car till the tires come off the ground and run the engine untill it comes up to full temp. Make sure your reservoir is full and try to park the car uphill if you can for the cool down. That's all I do, works like a charm every time. I don't even know where the bleed screw is, never needed to use it.



Jon.

[cortexx]

bleed screw is near the front of the engine on the fuel rail side . dont open it while engine is hot or you'll poach your fingers ( like i did ) , ope it while warming up engine at idle and itll hiss untill all the air is out , then tighten it and you're good to go

[DarkCaporaL]

Just make sure to put a few towels around the screw unless you want coolant all over your engine bay. :P