Self adjusting alignment problem?

[clandestine]

Hi All,

I've been talking with a few GTR owners and it seems like there is a similar problem.

As some of you know, I purchased the entire driftworks set and it has been working well for the most part.

The issue is, my toe is out and the camber became positive. It would appear the adjustable linkages "self adjusted" itself.

Here are links to what was installed:

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-project-cars/55614-wilsons-r32-gtr-project-build.html#post529592

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-project-cars/55614-wilsons-r32-gtr-project-build-2.html#post536532

1. Has anyone else had this problem?
2. Is there any resolution to this problem, or would I have to buy a different brand?
3. Are there ways to secure the adjustable rods from moving? (without spot welding lol)

Thanks in advance

[Skym]

Area's that are adjustable move over time, even stock does when hitting bumps, etc (hence why you need to realign car every 6 months or so). A bit of loctite, lock nut helps (factory adjustable arms have lock nuts). You could tap a hole in nut, create thread in hole and fit a small grub screw to stop it coming undone.

Sometimes you get play with the balljoints themselves due to wear that throws alignment out, as they are meant to be lubed (should have a nipple). Sometimes dust gets into the balljoints and causes excessive wear. Might be worth investing in some custom dust boots.

If it's moving on front, check upright for play (common for bearings to fail on left side). There's 2x bearings, upper and lower.

[clandestine]

Thanks for the response, I will keep this in mind and schedule routine alignment services.

After writing the initial post, I did find some searches on Loctite products which should help.

[caliber676]

It's not so much the fasteners tightness but more the fact that eccentric bolts are meant to move, and even with the stops on the subframe will move especially when you are using stiffer links with rose joints and hardened ball joints which permit next to zero play. If you have fully adjustable links you should invest in some eccentric delete/lock out washers. I believe I purchased them from SPL. The adjustability in the links should be more than enough alone.

[clandestine]

This?

https://www.splparts.com/store/product-info.php?pid252.html

[caliber676]

yupp that would be it.

[Bruizer]

That sounds annoying...

I installed the complete driftworks kit a few years back but have yet to drive the car so maybe I should deal with this now...

[clandestine]

yupp that would be it.

Thanks caliber, just ordered them.

That sounds annoying...

I installed the complete driftworks kit a few years back but have yet to drive the car so maybe I should deal with this now...

It was so frustrating - couldn't understand why and I was so hesitant on buying new tires because if the alignment goes then it will cause bad uneven wear =\

[Bruizer]

So what's the deal with the sol lockout things? You need some for every arm? Doesn't really say how many in a kit and I cant tell if the image is exact. Would the s13 HICAS work on a r32 gtr, even if the HICAS is deleted?

[clandestine]

So what's the deal with the sol lockout things? You need some for every arm? Doesn't really say how many in a kit and I cant tell if the image is exact. Would the s13 HICAS work on a r32 gtr, even if the HICAS is deleted?

Hey Bruizer,

Good question, same thing I asked SPL. I bought the 300zx Z32 SOL kit.

"Sales@SPLParts.com
Jul 25 (1 day ago)

to me
Hi Wilson!
That is the arm! The HICAS kit will only come with two bolts because you only have two eccentrics on your car (the inner bolt on the rear upper arm). A non HICAS car would normally have 2 additional eccentrics to adjust tow in the rear. Please let me know if you have anymore questions."

As he mentioned its the rear upper control arm, the inner bolts closest to the center of the car.

My understanding - and fellow gurus correct me if I am wrong. A stock car has all non-adjustable linkages and therefore your toe cannot be adjusted conventionally. The stock eccentrics have room for adjustment through use of this bolt to adjust the toe.

When all of the suspension arms are adjustable, there is no longer need for the stock eccentrics and the gap. If the stock eccentrics remain installed, under cornering load, there is a possibility for the alignment to shift (which is the problem I am having). Therefore the replacement SOL is just a bolt and washers to eliminate the gap and have zero slip.

[Bruizer]

Ah I see, is that the bolts that have funny oval washers? If it is, i can get a new bolt
For $4 and weld the gap closed for $7 lol.