Sluggish

[ChezoGTR]

So these past couple days my car has been acting up. In would be driving for a bit and while under full boost it would drop half way and not go past until I shut the car off. So I got my hands on a set of working mafs. Car holds full boost now, but feels very sluggish and doesn't pull
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[Skym]

Check that engine is not running on bad or low octane gas. ECU pulls ignition timing if it detect's knock (low octane gas, engine running lean are a few causes) that makes engine feel very sluggish in the midrange.

[ChezoGTR]

I highly doubt I'm running g lean. Bumper is black with in a week and a half of not washing from cardon

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[SkylineUSA]

If everything is running well, it does sound like timing is getting pulled. Injectors maybe need to cleaned?

[ChezoGTR]

I got a set of "working" coil pack and mafs And switch them it's running better under full boost, but still breaks up a little bit. I'm wondering if my wastgate actuator is pooched and no longer holing under full boost

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[SkylineUSA]

If its the actuator, off idle will be fine. Right when you get into it, she'll acts up, at least that was what happened to mine. I just remembered. Real sluggish. It will never come to full boost, at least not inmy set up.

[Skym]

Can check internal wastegate actuators on bench with compressed air, vacuuum hose, boost pressure gauge. Or check them on car (get slightly different readings). If below set psi range when internal wastegate actuator arm moves, change internal wastegate actuators. Also would get rattling sound on back of turbo at idle (wastegate hat moving around) with stuffed actuators.

If it's breaking up at lower rpm, ECU would see that as knock and pull ignition timing, run engine richer (switches to knock / low octane maps). If breaking up at higher rpm, on boost, sparkplug gap is too wide (stock is 1.1mm and need at 0.8mm gap). This missing can damage coilpacks, so be aware of that.

[SkylineUSA]

Can check internal wastegate actuators on bench with compressed air, vacuuum hose, boost pressure gauge. Or check them on car (get slightly different readings). If below set psi range when internal wastegate actuator arm moves, change internal wastegate actuators. Also would get rattling sound on back of turbo at idle (wastegate hat moving around) with stuffed actuators.

If it's breaking up at lower rpm, ECU would see that as knock and pull ignition timing, run engine richer (switches to knock / low octane maps). If breaking up at higher rpm, on boost, sparkplug gap is too wide (stock is 1.1mm and need at 0.8mm gap). This missing can damage coilpacks, so be aware of that.

If the diaphram is torn, the waste gate will still have a pre load with the tension from the spring, so no rattling. I really doubt its an issue with the actuator.

[Skym]

Never torn a internal wastegate actuator bulb diaphram. I noticed it's a weak spring that makes wastegate flap on back of turbo rattle (happened on my car). Changed internal wastegate actuator, problem solved.

[SkylineUSA]

Yep, in that config, I cannot see full boost ever happening.

[ChezoGTR]

Can check internal wastegate actuators on bench with compressed air, vacuuum hose, boost pressure gauge. Or check them on car (get slightly different readings). If below set psi range when internal wastegate actuator arm moves, change internal wastegate actuators. Also would get rattling sound on back of turbo at idle (wastegate hat moving around) with stuffed actuators.

If it's breaking up at lower rpm, ECU would see that as knock and pull ignition timing, run engine richer (switches to knock / low octane maps). If breaking up at higher rpm, on boost, sparkplug gap is too wide (stock is 1.1mm and need at 0.8mm gap). This missing can damage coilpacks, so be aware of that.

Funny that you say that. I am getting a weird vibration / rattle noise right before. The car starts to make boost and come out of vacuum

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[SkylineUSA]

If you're getting a rattle, I would think the actuator arm might have fallen off. I of course do not mean completely fallen off, slipped of the waste gate.