No tach, no spark, no start

[MarusGTR]

Little bit of background from the previous thread:

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-tech/60721-nismo-fpr-%3D-flooded-engine-2.html#post569089

Now it's a whole other monster; I don't have ignition. I can't get a spark from my coils. And since I didn't touch anything electric and drove the car in whillynilly, I have no clue where to start.

So first off like I said, I don't have spark. I also saw in a few diagnostic procedures that I should have tach sway, which I have not. Since I'm pretty green to electrical work on my car, I have no clue what the latter means, other than the ECU might be fried. (Edit: scratch that, ECU turns out code 21, ignition harness)

Ideas? Diagnostic procedues? While the FSM is pretty spot on for mechanical work, its lacking in the electrical department with no step by step procedure other than brief bulletpoints.

[Skym]

Ignition fuse.

[MarusGTR]

Above: The 30A PAL fuse in the enginebay fusebox? Its the first fuse I checked, its oxidized but still intact. All other fuses are accounted for.

Under: Ditto.

[Skym]

Under dash.

[collector240sx]

hey Marc,

like it's been said above, check the starter signal (ignition) fuse in the fuse box in the car, it's probably blown. If it is I would check all the ground in the engine bay (make sure you have a good engine to body ground, and battery ground is clean) and also this migth sound weird make sure the signal on the starter itself is making a good contact. If it's loose it will require more juice and too much juice going through the fuse and you can figure what happens, by it self not sure if it can blow the fuse but with bad ground it will got 4 burnt fuse to prove it in the 240sx lol.

Would also be a good idea to check all the fuse at the same time, just to be safe. Having a burnt fuse can sometime have weird effect on stuff you wouldn't expect thrust me on this.

[MarusGTR]

J-F; I probably should've made my problem clearer; I'm cranking smoothly, its just that I can't ignite the fuel that my injectors are dumping in the cylinders. Thanks for checking in though :P

Skym; I just saw your post in my last thread and I'll answer here, since its more topical (hence why I made a new thread in the first place, the old thread has been resolved, sortof.)

You can drill the FPR out to make it flow more (can even drill stock FPR out to drop fuel pressure). Search for how to's, as it should mention the drill bit to use.

You still surprise me, I didn't know that even with all the googling I did prior to choosing the Nismo FPR.

I guess I did repeat, my bad.

Bah :P

Is that the injector loom ground or CAS loom ground???? Have you tried swapping ECU's, checking all fuses under dash, especially ignition fuse???? If there's no ground to ignition module / coilpack loom it can blow the ignition fuse (might if that is the CAS ground, as from memory is connected to ignition module in some way), hence why I'm saying to check ignition fuse under dash.

The ground loom, I'm really not sure TBH. That's the main reason why I'm asking for help, since there's two primary ignition harnesses IIRC, the one before the ignitor (which is on the same line as the wiring for the injectors right and goes to the intake side of the engine) and the harness after the ignitor, which goes to the coils.

That confirms my suspicions of a blown ignition fuse under dash. Also pull CAS off (make sure you mark CAS, housing behind it with twink to reposition properly when refitting CAS and clear CAS error code on ECU afterwards) with ignition to power up the ECU, dash and turn CAS shaft. Do the injectors click (checking to see if signal gets from CAS to ECU to injectors)??? Engine won't start if CAS is not working (has a donut / electrical part inside), hence why I'm asking to do this test to confirm CAS, ECU is working and signal is going to where it should go.

The fuses have all been tested for continuity with an LED tester. I do have my stock ECU than I can swap, but beforehand I checked my current ECU (which I thought was dead) and it gave me a very specific code, code 21, which in the description says its a problem in the harness before the ignitor (ignitor included), -excluding the CAS-, as code 21 seems to be a variant when the ECU -can- read the CAS. Also the CAS must be working if my injectors are very healthily pissing in my cylinders as I attempted to adjust my fuel pressure fruitlessly.

Edit: Haven't checked for relays though, don't know if there are any involved

[spinnanz]

faulty coil ignitor?

[Skym]

faulty coil ignitor?

What he said.

You still surprise me, I didn't know that even with all the googling I did prior to choosing the Nismo FPR.

Credit goes to this person (mentioned that he has done this mod on his cars) -

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Steve-Murch-Motor-Sport-Engineering/255636937679

[MarusGTR]

I'm inclined to think so too but I'm the only skyline in a 300km radius. WTB ignitor

[caliber676]

Back probe the ignitor power on the input side and then on the output/coil side. If you got power going to it, you can rule out your circuitry prior to the ignitor. If you don't have power after it's the ignitor, if you do have power it's something else. 5mins of testing can make you the difference of being sure of yourself or a parts replacer

[MarusGTR]

^ You have to do so while cranking right? I was planning on cranking and checking the harness side for signal (don't know if my multimeter will catch the 0.2-0.3V, we'll see) and then check with the ignitor plugged in for the 9.6V while also cranking.

Lots and lots of cranking this week.

Edit: I'm getting some noisy 0.1-0.5V on the harness (looks ok to me, I guess?) but the ignitor barely breaks 0.16V when it should show me 10V. BUT, I'm wondering if my multimeter is even capable of picking up an ignition signal as it takes a good half second to find the proper voltage of my car battery. But also you might counter-argue that the cranking pushes at least, what, 5 pulses by second which the multimeter should be able to average.

Thoughts?

[MarusGTR]

IT WAS THE IGNITOR! Getting 11.6 AFRs with the Nismo FPR, thanks for the help 240sxcollector!

[Skym]

Good to hear.