Swapping Turbo's - Question

[AL91GTR]

I started my Turbo swap last night and pulled the front pipe and all air piping (1 hour - not bad). Is it really necessary to drain all oil and coolant? My car hasn't run for at least a week so the oil should pretty much all be drained down past the turbo's. I was planning on draining the rad, but do I need to do the block too?

I'm planning to do another oil change once all is back up and running and was hoping to use the oil that is in it now as a flush.

Engine is currently installed but it really doesn't look all that bad

Thanks!

[Godzilla32]

Well I did mine and didn't touch the coolant or oil at all. It dripped a ton out but it was ok because I just mopped it up. If you're doing it somewhere that you can't have any spills I would advise you drain the rad. That way all the coolant will sit at the lowest point and those hard lines should be empty.

[steveo1502]

Ya me too, I didn't drain anything , a little leaks out but nothing too serious , just have a container underneath to catch most of it, if you drain it most likely those lines will still have some oil/coolant in there

[AL91GTR]

Question for the turbo Guru's:

My information is based on this chart: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

The numbers on my turbo's are really confusing the hell out of me. The turbo's that i removed are supposed to be stock original but the numbers don't say so:

The turbo's that I took out identify as R33 N1's (14411-24U10). They have A/R 42 compressor housings and larger .64 turbines. The exhaust wheel appears to be ceramic and the wastegate hole is larger than the 'new' ones and the exhaust inlet is noticeably larger and gasket matched. I don't know for sure if they are ceramic or not ... I also found adjustable Garrett actuators that spec out as 'heavy duty 14.7 psi actuators' for Nissan according to the Garrett site. Need rebuild. Spin slightly and no play.

The 'new' N1 turbo's that I have ready to install have the same part number 14411-24U10 but A/R 60 compressor housings, larger steel exhaust wheels, BUT smaller .48 turbine housings with smaller exhaust inlets and smaller wastegate hole. They spin freely and no play but the housing needs to be rotated around 10 degrees to fit properly with stock piping.

It's almost like the 'new' turbo's i picked up are N1 centre and compressor matched up to a stock R33 turbine but with steel wheels.

Now I don't really know what I'm going to do. Is it better to have a larger compressor and small turbine or larger turbine and smaller compressor? How can you definitively identify ceramic wheels? Street driven, will drag a few times probably.

If Anybody can shed some light on this it would be appreciated, Thanks!

[AL91GTR]

Turbo that came out (R33 N1) - is this a ceramic wheel?

[nickisonfire]

Steel wheel buddy

[Godzilla32]

a magnet will be the judge of that for confirmation !

[AL91GTR]

Inconel wheels are non-magnetic. I had them confirmed today by my local Turbo shop and I'm going to have the 'original' pair of N1's rebuilt. Larger turbine and gates so should spool faster and with steel wheels, they should be plenty for my power goal of 400 WHP. You have to love a good find like that - it's not even my birthday yet!