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How to Know When the Timing Belt Was Changed?

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  • How to Know When the Timing Belt Was Changed?

    I just bought an R33 GTR and am wondering how to identify when the timing belt was changed (if at all). I know there could be a sticker on the top cam cover, but there is none there. There is, however, a sticker on the rad and if I read the Japanese correctly, it did seem like saying TIMING...

    ....would this be the correct sticker to read the mileage for timing belt change? The gauge cluster is a MINE'S, and it is at 170,000 right now. The mileage written on the sticker on the rad is perhaps showing a little over 110,000 kms written with a ballpoint pen. I am just confused if the mileage written on the sticker is the mileage TO CHANGE the timing belt at, or if it is when the timing belt WAS changed.

    Any ideas?

    I am asking this because the car has a rather loud buzzing noise that increases in volume with revs. I want to be sure it is not from the idler/tensioner or timing belt issues. Too cold to open the cam cover up since I dont have a garage. I dont want to blow up the motor, thinking that the belt was changed, when in fact it wasn't.

    Thanks, guys....it's good to be back in the Skyline-dom. Feels like home.
    (O||O___SKYLINE___O||O)

    Cheap, Reliable, Fast.....PICK TWO
    SERENITY NOW!!!!!!
    HEAVY METAL IS THE LAW........EVERYTHING ELSE IS JUST CRIME

  • #2
    The waterpump is generally changed at the same time as the timing belt so its possible they put it on the rad as its relevant to coolant? That said its probably best if you just post a picture of the sticker and let someone on here read it for you, as for all we know it just says coolant changed at 110km.

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    • #3
      Or just change it anyway for peace of mind

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      • #4
        That too, if its 170,000km and you're hearing weird noises etc. that you're concerned is timing belt related, you're only 30k off a recommended change anyways. Its a really easy job and (if you're not doing waterpump) relatively cheap as well.

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        • #5
          Oh I know its relatively easier than doing the turbos and the oil pump, which thankfully I dont intend to do. I am just not sure where the noise is coming from - if it is timing belt/idler/tensioner-related or something else. Nothing else that I know in a Skyline engine would produce a medium-pitched whining sound that goes up with revs. That's all.

          It is just too cold right now to work on the car, and I am driving it - runs great with power all the way to 6000+ rpm. I just wanted to know if the issue was simply an over-tight belt or just due to the cold weather causing a bit of a....err...."shrinkage", lol. Things contract in the cold.

          At any rate, I intend to take a picture of the sticker on the rad and post it up here tonight after work. Hope someone who can make sense of the language and the writing in pen, can help me decipher it.
          Last edited by judasentinel; 01-21-2015, 01:57 PM.
          (O||O___SKYLINE___O||O)

          Cheap, Reliable, Fast.....PICK TWO
          SERENITY NOW!!!!!!
          HEAVY METAL IS THE LAW........EVERYTHING ELSE IS JUST CRIME

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          • #6
            a picture of the sticker on the rad20150121_135626.jpg
            (O||O___SKYLINE___O||O)

            Cheap, Reliable, Fast.....PICK TWO
            SERENITY NOW!!!!!!
            HEAVY METAL IS THE LAW........EVERYTHING ELSE IS JUST CRIME

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            • #7
              I would change the cambelt if you don't know the service history of the car, as sometimes parts are not replaced that should be replaced.

              Cambelt is changed every 110,000km under normal street driving. Also the idler bearing, tensioner bearing. tensioner bearing mounting bolt (known to snap after retensioning the cambelt, driving car), crank oil seal, cam oil seals x2, waterpump are changed at the same time (also auxilary belts if done over 20,000km and checked, retensioned if necessary every 10,000km). Nissan sells a cambelt service kit with oilseals, cambelt, bearings, waterpump, etc.

              If aiming for more hp, it is recommended to upgrade the cambelt from stock cambelt to a stronger aftermarket cambelt (preferably Nismo or similar aftermarket cambelt). But look at the teeth shape on cambelt itself, as the teeth shape on aftermarket cambelts doesn't always match the stock camgear teeth correctly. Not engaging the stock camgear teeth correctly could cause the teeth to strip on cambelt itself and bye bye engine. I guess it's similar to not using the correct thread for a nut and bolt and it strips the bolt.

              Under racing conditions the cambelt, etc would be changed every 3000 race km or so due to engine needing a refresh every 3000km or so. Doesn't matter if it's a V8 or straight 6, etc as same rebuild km applies to any race engine.

              Sometimes the powersteering pump has the bearing on the front of the pump that makes a noise and can be easily mistaken for a problem with the cambelt idler, tensioner bearings. Use a mechanics stethoscope and listen for where the noise is coming from on the engine. Sometimes it can be the CAS (mounted incorrectly or sometimes loose cambelt can cause some wear on CAS to front of exhaust cam) or idler, tensioner bearing if cambelt is too tight.
              Last edited by Skym; 01-21-2015, 10:18 PM.
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