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  • oil catch can getting filled Question

    Hey guys

    before we start, there is nothing wrong with the engine, the dipstick doesnt come up, it doesnt lack compression.


    under high revving my head gets full of oil as everyone knows with rb's and so does the catch can. It usually takes 3 runs of time attack to actually fill it up, so its not that bad. I was thinking of buying mines baffle plates: http://www.rhdjapan.com/mine-s-tripl...line-gt-r.html , and to get a braided line that would go from right cam cover breather to catch can, and from catch can to Rear turbo drain

    what do you guys think is this a good move to stop crankcase oil to be lost in engine bay?

  • #2
    The Nismo catch can has a return that goes to the rear turbo drain. Can't be a bad idea IMO.
    I think the cam cover baffles are a good idea aswell.
    Also good to see someone using their GTR properly.

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    • #3
      Seems like quite a bit of oil to be built up in just three hard laps. There may be something else at play here. Are you running a line from the catch can to your post filter intake piping or is it going directly to atmosphere or exhaust? When you say "full" what is the size of catch your running?

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      • #4
        since resizing oil drains in the block/head arent really an option for you I would address some of the concerns you can remedy.
        1. The stock baffling is no more than a strainer/shield. It cannot seperate oil from blowby gas during operation. The mines triple baffles have entrance and exit ports to "filter" the gas from oil during braking and accel.
        2. (assuming) you have a basic catch can setup and it is routed to atmosphere your basically have a hose running into a bucket. An oil seperator or even a baffled catch can routed to the suction line post MAFS would be a better idea. That way after the mines baffles if oil comes out it is again filtered into the canister and the gases sent back into the intake. Also creating a vacuum will help rings seat better and overall improve engine performance.
        3. Routing your oil catch can back into the pan. Its up for debate, its not bad but some say its not necessary, it wouldn't hurt but it may not help either.

        The amount of oil your talking about is too much no matter how big your catch can is. A turbocharged engine will pass oil into the intake piping no matter what but not to that extent.
        “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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        • #5
          the car is single turbo and running 630 whp at 25 psi of boost . its not three hard laps of time attack that fill her up, its actually 3-5 sessions of 20 minutes. the setup i am running now is a greedy oil catch can https://www.wesellcarparts.com/store...idproduct=5359 (pretty basic setup) and all i have is a hose from cam cover (right side) to one inlet of catch can, with stock pcv valve routing, the other is vented to atmosphere. there is no drain to engine, nothing yet. so im not really supprised after running a few time attack sessions that it got filled up, its just normal as yes, the catch can right now is kindof a bucket.

          My idea of sending oil back to engine is that I would mount a custom fit "drain" from bottom of catch can, to rear turbo oil return line with a check valve (one way valve) so that when there is no crank case pressure the oil would just drop down back to sump by gravity without any maintenance, the two top nipples would be used to vent to atmosphere and receive crankcase pressure. Of course, the best would be to be able to have oil return to sump even when the engine would be running.

          i also purchased the mines baffle plates and they are on the way.

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          • #6
            so in other words, my catch can once modified would be a bit like the nismo one:

            RHDJapan offers the best quality performance parts made in Japan including Nismo, Mugen, Defi, Spoon, Cusco, Tomei, HKS and other JDM brands.


            The top nipple will be vented to atmostphere with a filter.
            the middle nipple will be from right cam cover with mines baffles.
            and the lower nipple will be return to base with a one way valve, or manual valve that i will open after every session.
            Last edited by mistercrow; 06-04-2015, 09:28 PM.

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            • #7
              hey is the one way valve necessary? Does the nismo kit include such an item? I'll be routing my oil from the catch can back through the front turbo oil drain tube so i was wondering if it'll be pushing air from the pan back through my catchcan. Also if the one way valve is needed then it would be closed most of the time unless pressure is really low in the crankcase during idle or low rpm's otherwise the car would have to be off for it to drain back... correct?
              Last edited by curtisgoodman; 06-08-2015, 07:33 AM.

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              • #8
                Well i just installed this weekend a one way valve from vibrant, im going to race tonight so ill let you know how it goes. The nismo one doesnt have a one way valve. The only reason i installed one is because i dont want oil pressure coming from 2 ends out of 3 for most of the run time. The one way valve i installed takes really really little wind to activate or deactivate so i think itll be perfect. Ill give you feedback once i can confirm this worked out well for me

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                • #9
                  let us all know please have a safe race

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                  • #10
                    I cant ask for better. I did two runs yesterday two 20 minutes. I checked my oil level before getting on track it was full, just a little over as its a little trick i use to prevent oil starvation. (Please dont tell me how "dangerous" it is, i know theoricly it is!) Went for first run full 20 minutes, check dipstick after run, oil level was on the spot and oil catch can had just a little little tiny bit at bottom,due to valve installed horizontaly instead of verticaly. Ill post a picture of setup a little later during the week as car is stored weekly away from home. The valve i used was a vibrant performance, its honestly exactly how i imagined it: a tiny tiny flow of air coming out of my mouth stops one way, lets it go the other goes through really well! If anyone is looking for vibrant parts, i have a direct supplyer i can hook you up.

                    Second run went fine untill a intercooler pipe disconnected but it was still a good 12-15 minutes into it, oil level was good and so was the catch can. I looked for leaks and noone visible. Ill run this setup all summer and see how it goes, im pretty sure i solved my problem.

                    For those who want to see the conditions of driving heres last nights recap:



                    Run two (those flames!)

                    Last edited by mistercrow; 06-09-2015, 10:12 PM.

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                    • #11
                      having a drain back is a moderate solution to the problem, the issue is once you fill the head up with oil and during acceleration the oil has nowhere to go but out the rear breathers because the motor has nowhere else to breath from, give the engine a third point of crank case venting and your problem will be solved.

                      i weld two An fittings to the front of the valve covers so when the oil goes to the back of the head the engine can still breath from the front ports.

                      enjoy.

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                      • #12
                        here is a photo of my car with the valve cover vent.

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                        • #13
                          Extra cover vents but no precious timing cover lol
                          Last edited by Bruizer; 06-18-2015, 11:10 PM.
                          No build thread.
                          1991 nissan
                          El terror

                          "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

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