Thick Green/Grey oily substance on right front wheel inside - need help!!!

[judasentinel]

Hi.

My R33 GTR has Tein coilovers all around. Today, noticed that the inside of my right front wheel is covered in a greenish grey oil. Wondering if it is a leak in my steering rack or the coilover leaked. How dangerous is it to drive the car 10 km from work to home tonight? How do I check visually if the leak is in the suspension or elsewhere? Is there a way to test the front right coilover? The car is stiff as an early morning boner, well, more so on the right side (where the leak is noticed). The front left has a bit of a play when I push down on the car, but nothing on the right side.

Anyone have any experience with this kind of stuff? Is this repairable or what do I need to do now?

Thank you for your inputs. I am really feeling upset at this. The car was running fine and still does, but if this means putting her into the garage, it will break my heart. Please help.

[sb119]

What do you mean thick? Is it possible the substance is grease and not oil? could be your outer cv joint boot is leaking. turn your wheel all the way to the right and take a look from the front

[judasentinel]

Yes, it is a bit thicker than oil, for sure. Thats why I thought it might have been a leak from the coilovers. If it is the CV boot, is that dangerous? What is the solution?

[judasentinel]

Just checked and it is the right front outer CV boot. How dangerous is it (if at all) to drive it around like this, while I wait for a replacement to arrive? I dont beat up on the car or pull any in-air-stunts, BTW. Wonder what could have caused it, as the boot looks new-ish. Its a clean tear along one of the creases, possibly all around.

A couple of more things I noticed today:

1. The car has a rattle when it starts, which goes away after it warms up, but as soon as I give gas again, it comes back on for a bit. It is quite noticeable in first gear, but then not afterwards. Any ideas?

2. The rear turbo might be causing air to run out of the MAFs through the air filter. When I let go of gas, I can see air coming out of the air filter (dust cloud). Is it due to the BOV not working? Started happening a few months ago, and I thought it was normal as the BOV was not vented and was recirculated. However, I am not sure anymore. I guess I will have to lift the car up and see whats up with the BOVs.

[steveo1502]

Can fix it now by just changing the boots, nissan sells a kit to repair them

[judasentinel]

Thank you for that info. Is there a part number that I can provide to them to order it? It's the outer front right CV boot, the rubber ribbed part.

[steveo1502]

Front Inner CV boot kit R 39741-05U25
Front Inner CV boot kit L 39741-05U26

Front Outer CV boot kit R 39241-05U25
Front Outer CV boot kit L 39241-05U26

[steveo1502]

Pretty sure they are the same boots,one pack had some clips I didn't use, but the boots fit fine though .I think I ordered the wrong one, I did the drivers front axel, so front right, I should have ordered both 05u25.... but I ordered one of each lol

[judasentinel]

Thanks, Steve. Any info on compatibility for this part from another car? Soeone said it is the same as 1995 Maxima and another said the same as a Z32.

[bobbo]

Daryl at Right Drive stocks them. About $55 each for everything you need.

[judasentinel]

Seems like a lot of work to do, as from what I have read online, you need to remove the wheel/tire, hub, brake line, control arm, etc., and then remove the half shaft from the transfer case just to change the outer CV boot. Or is that wrong? Is there a better way to do it without removing the half shaft from the transfer case? Can it be done simply by removing the wheel assembly and not having to disconnect everything else?

What about getting a split CV boot that can be put on? Anyone have any luck with those?

Also, what kind of a grease (and how much) should i put into the boot before sealing it?

[bobbo]

It's not hard to do. Don't use a split boot for the love of Gawd!
A good thick layer of grease on the moving components is all that's required.

[judasentinel]

I dont have the resources to remove the hub assembly and the brake lines. That's why I was asking about how to do it, because if it requires removal of the driveshaft, I might have to go to a shop, which will end up being an arm and a leg for a $50 piece to be installed.

Is there a DIY available for this?

[bobbo]

If you did a search I'm sure you'd find a DIY.
You don't have to remove the brake line but you do have to remove the caliper from the spindle.
Remove the large nut that holds the shaft.
Remove the 2 nuts that secure the ball joint to the spindle then you can pull and swing the spindle off of the CV axle. This might take a little bit of persuasion but nothing significant.
Now you've got the axel hanging free.
Remove what's left of the torn boot and clean the joint as best as you can with a degreaser removing the old grease and whatever debris that may have entered.
Now you remove the joint off of the shaft allowing you to put the new boot on. This will take some good taps with a hammer. Be sure not to cause any damage. It'll take a few hits but it'll give.
Put your new boot on and pack the joint with the supplied grease.
Reassembly will be the reverse procedure.
After the couple of hours this took you it's time to marvel in your accomplishment and enjoy a cold beer.

[steveo1502]

I just got mine from nissan, 90 for both , I've also heard maxima too but not really sure

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