R12-->R134a

[Dewayne2121]

As the title states, I'm trying to figure out what all is needed as far as parts to convert the R32 to R134a refrigerant. I recently found out my compressor is shot and purchased another one and would like to find the parts to convert it since R12 is so rare and expensive in America. Part numbers and any info and experience would be greatly appreciated

[MB38]

I just had my R32 converted a few months ago.

I replaced my dead leaky compressor with a new one. The AC shop sourced a dryer for me that ran about $60 USD. They needed to replace the high and low valves [maybe $20?] and pressure tested the system.

The biggest difficulty was figuring out how much R134a to put in there. My old stickers were completely fried. I don't remember exactly how much they put in, but it was in the 600-700g range. Consider this the least trustworthy info you can have as far as volume is concerned. If you have an R12 sticker with volume still, you should have the AC shop do whatever the volume conversion is.

I kept the old condenser, despite it not being super efficient for R134a. The car just spent a few months in the hot desert without issue... it still blows plenty cold. It'd probably blow colder with R12 or with a finer R134a condenser, but in the real world it's been fine.

The most expensive thing you'll pay for will be the labor to swap the compressor. I was out the door with the compressor replacement, new dryer, new fittings, pressure test, and fill for about $400 USD.

[Dragon Humper]

New dryer is all you need and should be replaced anyway even if you got some R12. I use the DuraCool brand (or ReTeck) as a refer juice. 134a works but not as well as R12 and 134a is VERY poisonous if it burns...and it does burn, just like the evil stuff that DuraCool is made of. My AC in my old GTR was ice cold when I had the low pressure side balanced just right.



Jon.

[Skym]

I just had my R32 converted a few months ago.

I replaced my dead leaky compressor with a new one. The AC shop sourced a dryer for me that ran about $60 USD. They needed to replace the high and low valves [maybe $20?] and pressure tested the system.

Same, red, blue top valve caps, valves.

Also dryer is replaced every 2 years, regassed, reoiled every year. The compressor can fail if you don't run it every time or close to everytime you drive the car as the seals can dry up and fail. It also requires oil, so that has to be changed every service.

Most of the time the compressor just needs a rebuild and involves replacing the piston assembly if necessary (each piston is attached to centre disc by shafts which have a balljoint on piston side, balljoint on disc side. The balljoints fail thus making a knocking sound), new seals, greasing bearings, etc.

[Dragon Humper]

That is why the AC comes on when you put the defrost on with the heat. I does two things, dryes the air to the heater to help out de-fogging and runs the AC in the winter to keep the oil circulating in the system. Changing the dryer every two years is a little on the way-overkill side though. The dryer in my old Caprice cop car was origional (16 years old) and was still not clogged up unough to hinder flow, was blowing 4 deg C below what it was supposed to with the DuraCool.

As long as you have no cracks in the system hard parts and you replace all of the O rings with the dryer and compressor you should be good for at least 10years if you make sure you run it at the beginning and end of your driving season. Seals dont dry out nearly as reddily as they used to due to modern Viton and military grade silicon being used.


Jon.

[Dewayne2121]

Thanks for all the input! Greatly appreciated !!!

[Raybrant]

Or you can do the cheap way and just replace the fittings, evacuate and fill with 90% R134a. It will reduce the life of your compressor but my thinking was that it's old and should be on its way out anyway. When it dies I'll just replace it then, no harm done. Have done this and the AC has been working for a couple of years with no problem yet.